I'm not sure I know where you mean.The only crack I see is at the top of the skimmer, is that what you mean? Would that cause wet ground about 3' away even though the crack is above the waterline?
Water test showing no chlorine and SWG showing low salt
- Thread starter aztony
- Start date
Where the plastic skimmer meets concrete can often separate and leak.
The vertical plastic sides and bottom look like they might be separating from the concrete grout.
The vertical plastic sides and bottom look like they might be separating from the concrete grout.
I can't tell for sure from the picture. However, if it looks like it needs patching, you can use epoxy putty or grout.
Just lower the water and patch.
Give overnight to cure and then refill.
Just lower the water and patch.
Give overnight to cure and then refill.
So, the only place I see a crack is at the top where the grey molding is. I'm wondering should I remove that and replace it with the epoxy I bought or just put the epoxy over it. Also, I have no idea where else it is needed as I don't see anything that might be a problem. How far should I lower the water?
I can't tell for sure from the picture. Only you can tell by looking closely. If it looks ok, then you probably don't have to do anything.
Try dye on any suspect spots.
Try dye on any suspect spots.
So, I applied the epoxy around the skimmer, all except the bottom. Waited about 10 hours to fill the pool. Turned off the auto leveler. Water level was down a couple of inches by morning. Had a bucket of water at the 9 gallon mark of the bucket, it was down to the 8 gallon mark. Not sure if that means anything or not. The picture shows the dirt under the pipes is wet. I'm guessing one of them has a leak. Now my question is who do I call. Can I call a regular plumber or does it have to be someone specialized in pool plumbing? I really don't think I need to pay for a leak detection service, especially when it cost $600. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
You can pressure test the lines to see what's leaking.
You can plug all lines and then check for loss overnight. If it still leaks, you can rule out the plumbing.
If you know where the leak is, anyone who can do pvc can fix it.
You can dive and dye test any suspicious spots. The hydrostat might be the problem. Definitely check that.
You can plug all lines and then check for loss overnight. If it still leaks, you can rule out the plumbing.
If you know where the leak is, anyone who can do pvc can fix it.
You can dive and dye test any suspicious spots. The hydrostat might be the problem. Definitely check that.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm assuming the leak is where the ground is wet around the pipes, haven't found the leak itself. I've watched some videos on how to check and or change the hydrostat and also how to do a pressure test. All that seems out of my realm as well as overwhelming. I'm not very handy when it comes to tools and DIY projects. Seems to be something I should leave up to a professional.
Update: Finally got a pool plumbing company to come out. The guy feels it's not a leak in the plumbing but in the skimmer. Said I have the water level to high, just below the top of the skimmer basket. Turned off the auto leveler, told me to lower the level to where the water is no higher then 2" up on the tile. Wait a couple of days to see if the water goes down any lower. If it does, then I probably need to have the tiles reset at the skimmer.
I have had leaks at the skimmers previously. As stated above, the joint between the tile/cement and the plastic skimmer is a likely culprit. There is no "seal" in this area. Simply expecting a friction connection between the grout and plastic to be water tight is suspect IMHO. Resetting the tiles (new grout) may correct but seems excessive. You could run a dye test in this area to locate the actual leak. Then some caulk suitable for under water applications could be applied.
So I've had the auto leveler off for a week and checked the water level every day. It went down about an inch, thinking that's mostly from evaporation. The hole where the dirt was muddy before is now dry. I turned the auto leveler back on yesterday, water is a little over the 2" mark on the tile, dirt is still dry. So far looks like lowering the water level took care of the problem. Should probably still look into putting some caulking around the skimmer. I also have to work on scrubbing off the calcium ring now that the water level is way lower then where it was. Any suggestions on what to use?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use a dilute muriatic acid to remove the calcium ring. 4 parts water to 1 part acid. Wear gloves and use eye protection. If it does not come off easily, it may need to be soda blasted. Their are services in your area that do that.
In the future monitor your CSI and you can keep the calcium deposits to a minimum.
Take care.
In the future monitor your CSI and you can keep the calcium deposits to a minimum.
Take care.
Thanks for the info. What should I use to apply the acid? A pumice stone, wire brush? I've seen de-scaler products, are they any good?
In regards to the CSI, how do I monitor it? The test kit doesn't have a test for it.
In regards to the CSI, how do I monitor it? The test kit doesn't have a test for it.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
CSI -- Calcite Saturation Index - requires pH, TA, CH, CYA, Temp, uses Borate, Salt
Less than -0.6 is suggestive of problems for plaster, tile, stone, and pebble pools.
Greater than 0.6 is suggestive of problems for all pools.
You generate the CSI by using PoolMath. Each time you test your pool water you should be putting the data in PoolMath or the PoolMath app to see what chemical additions are needed and what the CSI is.
Take care.
Okay, thanks. I saw that but wasn't sure if it was done automatically or not. The CSI reading I'm getting is -0.28 -0.32 My chlorine level is high at 19, trying to get that down. Turned the SWG down to 0 to see if that helps, salt -3200, pH is at 7.2, CYA -90, TA-110 I'm assuming the numbers are off from having the auto level off and having the water drop by about 4". Pool Math is mostly telling me to replace some of the water and add soda ash to bring the pH up.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good to hear your CSI is lower now. It must have been well above 0 at times to get the calcium ring in your pool. More closely monitoring of pH, TA, and CH to keep the CSI just below 0 will keep the calcium ring to a minimum.
Take care.
Take care.
Trying to figure out why my chlorine level is so high, 19. Dialed the SWG down to 0 to see if that helps. Salt level is at 2600. I was going to add salt but I figured I better wait until the chlorine level gets to where it should be.
Update: Thought I had the leak resolved by lowering the water level since the dirt at the bottom of the hole was dry for a week so I refilled the hole. I noticed 2 days ago the ground was wet again in the same spot. Turned off the water leveler. Level went down almost an inch in one day. Now it's at the bottom of the skimmer. Question, to do the water leak test with dye,
will I have to bring the water level back up or should I just buy some caulk and put it around the skimmer?
will I have to bring the water level back up or should I just buy some caulk and put it around the skimmer?