Water Chemistry - Pool Frog?

[sweetnaz01]

Moved from here.
Hi everyone, we just bought a 21feet above ground pool, about 10,000 gallons. I've gotten a lot of mixed information, so I'm hoping for some knowledge and clarification from the experts here.

• I grew up with an inground pool, so i have some knowledge, and I'm baffled that I'm being told not to use liquid chlorine and only tablets and granules, basic chemistry would say, dilution of liquid, pour slow and move it = less damage to liner. sitting and dissolving solids = more damage, so not sure what the heck these sellers are saying from the pool shops lol thoughts?
• anyone heard of this thing: Frog Flippin' Frog XL Complete Pool Care System - it maxes at 10,000 gallons, i think it's a waste of money in south Florida heat and rain. it's failed to keep the levels up, maybe it's good for a weekly maintenance while i treat the water manually.
• i'm trying to learn, do i use this weekly or bi-weekly or based on what the readings are: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YKWDZPW/
• or do i stick to old school test the water and add what's needed lol
• sometimes i think, these automated systems that has come out are a waste of money because there's so many variables in treating water, literally.

thanks in advance, looking forward to learning from you all
- naz

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

Stick with the old school way and run away from "frog anything" or any other low chlorine myth..

Being in Florida you have great access to liquid chlorine, you can get carboys with 12.5% chlorine.. You want to test and dose daily..

Test Kits Compared

Once you have one of the test kits we can get you going

 

[ajw22]

Stick with your own old school testing and using the recommended chemicals.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

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Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

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Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

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[Mdragger88]

Welcome to TFP Glad you’re here!
to answer some of your questions-
* You are correct- liquid chlorine poured in a small stream in front of a return is the way to go- brush it around as needed

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

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* The frog is no good - it’s premise is that it’s “minerals” reduce the need for proper amounts of fc which is a recipe for disaster. Also some frog minerals/products can actually add metals to your water which you really don’t want. That particular system has a trichlor cartridge as well which adds cya to your water as well as fc. For every 5ppm fc it adds you increase cya by about 2.5. This can get out of hand quickly. Its best to add liquid chlorine & stabilizer separately.
Trichlor is also acidic & can tank your ph & ta. Bleach/liquid chlorine doesn’t have this effect.
Ditch the frog & stick to the FC/CYA Levels & Recommended Levels.
PoolMath makes calculating additions easy.
* the product you linked is cal hypo - it increases your calcium hardness along with fc. Weekly “shocks” aren’t needed if you maintain fc according to the fc/cya chart.
If you have a time with fc below min for your cya, elevated cc’s, visible algae, cloudy water or fail an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test you would do the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine.
Daily fc testing & liquid chlorine dosing should prevent the need for this.
* yes! That’s the tfp method- test (w/ a tf100 or Taylor k2006c) & add what your pool needs- nothing more, nothing less
* there are some automated systems that are beneficial such as a salt water chlorine generator or a stenner pump - they all still require regular testing & adjustments. There is no set it & forget it solution & the ones that promise that are setting people up for failure.
Happy pooling!

 

[PoolStored]

The pool frog controls algae using silver chloride. It doesn't provide sanitation.

The "Pac" is just trichlor. Pucks. Very acidic, and adds about 6 CYA for every 10 FC. When it starts dissolving, you have more than enough chlorine for the CYA level. As the sun destroys the FC and as it oxidizes dead skin and snot and whatever else, the FC goes down while the CYA remains and builds. Then you need more and more chlorine to remain sanitary. The lack of algae doesn't prove the lack of bacteria and viruses. Copper and Silver don't kill viruses fast enough to prevent person-to-person transmission. That's why they're not approved swimming pool sanitizers. Even PoolFrog recognizes this which is why it adds chlorine as well.

They're running off old old standards which fail to take CYA into account.

You're In The Industry so you ought to be aware of the limits of CYA allowed in public pools as well as the buffering effect.

Pool Water Chemistry​

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com