Water Balancing Act - Need a wee bit of encouragement and/or advice :)

[Bigjohnrathfon]

What's up, peeps?

Sorry, but I'm not a big fan of the Pool Math app and have been using Pooli app for over a year. (Don't attack!) Overall, my pool has been immaculate but the more I read things, the more I wanted to make a few tweaks. I mean, it's an SWG 19200 gallon pool but we got smoked with rain a few weeks ago, like smoked.. I thought the Betta was on the deck when I got up. 6" overnight and an additional 2" the next day. I had to drain off water and essentially did a blood transfusion for the water. It took me the past few weeks to start to get things to stabilize. She's always been a muriatic acid addict, and never had an outbreak of pool roulette but has needed more salt, and more baking soda, and now, I'm gonna drop some stabilizer to get things back aligned. I've always maintained a pristine pool. I mean, let's be real. I have a Kreepy Krauly Legend pressure cleaner for Saturday morning, use a Pool Blaster Max Li for the week's cleanup, empty skimmers, and run the Betta SE 24/7. I'm a run-the-pump ALOT guy, not worried about saving on the bill, versus a clean-Rear pool. I get about three weeks between backwashes and usually clean the pool pump strainer then, grease up the ring and put her back together

Now... I've enabled the TFP protocols into the Pooli App, and disabled the "middle of the range" option for dosing recommendations to make decisions on where I want to land in the ranges. I'm feeling good so part of this is for advice, part of this is for a pat on the back, lol.

Today's results: CH 250 - TC 4 - FC 3 - pH 7.64 - TA 63.5 (80) - CY 50 - NaCl (S) - 3070 - CC 1 - SWG set at 50%
Should I keep the TA adjustment turned off if I follow the TFP? I've read a ton of stuff and didn't catch that part!

I check water chemistry at least 5 times a week, and even though she looks good, I like to be a helicopter parent to this baby.

Thanks all,
BJR

 

[Newdude]

She's always been a muriatic acid addict,

With a lower TA near 60, it shouldn't be. Most vinyl pools only need an occasional Ph tweak. I dosed once last year and only to appease the pool gods before a blowout party. I don't expect to dose it once this year.

FC 3

See, now that right there is how an unexpected event such as a whopper storm, or a particularly high UV day can put you on the express train to Swampville. We added a range to the SWG charts to account for some swing, which all pools have. SWG pools sometimes swing much less than LC pools, but they still swing.

Run the high end of target range during the peak season, and whatever curveballs the universe throws at you are covered before they happen.

CY 50

How much FC do you need to produce each day to break even ? You said the SWG is at 50%, but for how long ? Your unit will make a little over 6 FC in 24 hours. If you're losing 4 ppm right now, that's 16 hours at 100% needed to break even.

I just had to bump my CYA which had dipped to 50 and was giving me excessive loss. It was the third time this season actually.

 

[Bperry]

What's up, peeps?

Sorry, but I'm not a big fan of the Pool Math app and have been using Pooli app for over a year. (Don't attack!) Overall, my pool has been immaculate but the more I read things, the more I wanted to make a few tweaks. I mean, it's an SWG 19200 gallon pool but we got smoked with rain a few weeks ago, like smoked.. I thought the Betta was on the deck when I got up. 6" overnight and an additional 2" the next day. I had to drain off water and essentially did a blood transfusion for the water. It took me the past few weeks to start to get things to stabilize. She's always been a muriatic acid addict, and never had an outbreak of pool roulette but has needed more salt, and more baking soda, and now, I'm gonna drop some stabilizer to get things back aligned. I've always maintained a pristine pool. I mean, let's be real. I have a Kreepy Krauly Legend pressure cleaner for Saturday morning, use a Pool Blaster Max Li for the week's cleanup, empty skimmers, and run the Betta SE 24/7. I'm a run-the-pump ALOT guy, not worried about saving on the bill, versus a clean-Rear pool. I get about three weeks between backwashes and usually clean the pool pump strainer then, grease up the ring and put her back together

Now... I've enabled the TFP protocols into the Pooli App, and disabled the "middle of the range" option for dosing recommendations to make decisions on where I want to land in the ranges. I'm feeling good so part of this is for advice, part of this is for a pat on the back, lol.

Today's results: CH 250 - TC 4 - FC 3 - pH 7.64 - TA 63.5 (80) - CY 50 - NaCl (S) - 3070 - CC 1 - SWG set at 50%
Should I keep the TA adjustment turned off if I follow the TFP? I've read a ton of stuff and didn't catch that part!

I check water chemistry at least 5 times a week, and even though she looks good, I like to be a helicopter parent to this baby.

Thanks all,
BJR

It’s hard to provide advice if you aren’t testing the water with a reliable test kit. There’s just been so many Really unreliable paper strips, pool stores, and electronic gadgets that just don’t work very well. You can post results from one of the Taylor drop based kits we can maybe provide better advice. But I don’t see anything terribly wrong with the results you posted except for maybe the chlorine being low for your CYA level

 

[Jimrahbe]

John,

With a CYA of 50 your FC target is... 3 to 8 ppm.. It is always better to run hot then not... I would not be running at 3 ppm...

We see no purpose in adjusting your TA based on your CYA level.

I run my TA at about 50 to 60 (no CYA adjustment).. This makes the amount of acid my pool uses a lot less...

A SWCG setting of 50% by itself does not mean anything.. You need to adjust your SWCG output and pump run time so that the SWCG makes the amount of FC your pool uses each day..

All and all looks pretty good to me.


Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

John,

With a CYA of 50 your FC target is... 3 to 8 ppm.. It is always better to run hot then not... I would not be running at 3 ppm...

We see no purpose in adjusting your TA based on your CYA level.

I run my TA at about 50 to 60 (no CYA adjustment).. This makes the amount of acid my pool uses a lot less...

A SWCG setting of 50% by itself does not mean anything.. You need to adjust your SWCG output and pump run time so that the SWCG makes the amount of FC your pool uses each day..

All and all looks pretty good to me.


Thanks,

Jim R.

thanks for the info; the pump runs 24/7. I run it at 87% Variable (40-55gpm) depending on the time from backwash; 30-45 at night, again based on the time from backwash. I try to make sure I turn the pool multiple times a day at a minimum. I am gonna bump my SWG up to get that FC up closer to 6-8. I won't tweak the CYA at this time. I already had added in some TA adjustments this morning before I had my epiphany this afternoon.

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

It’s hard to provide advice if you aren’t testing the water with a reliable test kit. There’s just been so many Really unreliable paper strips, pool stores, and electronic gadgets that just don’t work very well. You can post results from one of the Taylor drop based kits we can maybe provide better advice. But I don’t see anything terribly wrong with the results you posted except for maybe the chlorine being low for your CYA level

I test once per week with my Taylor kit, or if I think I need to be more precise, use a digital for salt/ph and cross reference it with my kit. I use strips for directional numbers but will titrate out once/per week to ensure things are good to go. The TA and CYA were from the TAylor kit this morning, the others were a mixed bag.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I try to make sure I turn the pool multiple times a day at a minimum.

John,

Why do you do that??? The idea that you have to have x turnovers a day is a big myth.. It is just not true.

I suggest that you run just fast enough to turn on your SWCG plus 100 or so RPM..

Chemicals keep your pool algae free, not the number of times water passes through the filter. The filter is just there to capture the stuff that falls into your pool and floats.. By the time the filter starts collecting algae, you have already lost the algae war..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

John,

Why do you do that??? The idea that you have to have x turnovers a day is a big myth.. It is just not true.

I suggest that you run just fast enough to turn on your SWCG plus 100 or so RPM..

Chemicals keep your pool algae free, not the number of times water passes through the filter. The filter is just there to capture the stuff that falls into your pool and floats.. By the time the filter starts collecting algae, you have already lost the algae war..

Thanks,

Jim R.

I run the pentair intelliflo pro3 vsf 1.5hp pool pump. I struggle to find rpms so I have been using a percentage to run programs. Thinking about what you said, I updated the programs to gpm settings. Not ready to go full boat but reduced the gpms down. I like the idea of circulation thru the swg. I did up the swg to 62%. I've had pretty good luck in two years with chemistry but have to be heavy handed with pH management. Water here is ultra alkaline around 9. I've read lots of the posts. I do use a Taylor kit weekly and clean it a lot. I find the pH so hard to read the color difference so I use a digital meter which I need to calibrate to ensure it's accuracy. I did bump by ta today but will try toadhere to the tfp methods. I don't need to create and issue but I've been running the vsp hard which isn't how it's designed for use to manage electricity. I might start shutting down the pump at night in a week or two based on how things progress.


I appreciate your feedback.

 

[proavia]

Sorry, but I'm not a big fan of the Pool Math app and have been using Pooli app for over a year.

Explain - in detail - why you aren't a big fan of PoolMath.

Yeah, it's not perfect, but it works really well.

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

Explain - in detail - why you aren't a big fan of PoolMath.

Yeah, it's not perfect, but it works really well.

It's probably personal preference to the interface. I've gotten so used to Pooli, unlimited free test logs and I don't ever use a strip photo option, as that's paying premium to use a directional but halfway accurate test method of strips.

 

[Donldson]

I find the pH so hard to read the color difference

I use strips

Bit of conflicting statements going on here...

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

Bit of conflicting statements going on here...

Thanks for the encouragement. Bet you're a Facebook expert too. PH on the Taylor kits isn't the easiest to read. Neither is the strip so I use a digital readout for that. Many of the strips and the kits is easy to read.

Most people ask for clarification prior to going full Richard. Sleep well...

 

[Donldson]

I'm unsure what clarification you believe I might need? Test strips are universally garbage and based upon color matching, there is nothing to clarify there.

Richard320 was one of the more knowledgeable and no-nonsense posters ever to grace this forum. I will indeed sleep quite well after hearing such praise. Thank you!

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

I'm unsure what clarification you believe I might need? Test strips are universally garbage and based upon color matching, there is nothing to clarify there.

Richard320 was one of the more knowledgeable and no-nonsense posters ever to grace this forum. I will indeed sleep quite well after hearing such praise. Thank you!

Touche. I was a little grumpy and tired so I apologize for being that way.
I meant, although strips are garbage, if you are at least using a Taylor 2006 (think that's the number), weekly, use of strips during the week should be directionally accurate. When I get a result that seems odd, check against titrated results.

I still somewhat struggle on the Taylor when it comes to the colors on the pH. Maybe I'm just getting old. So I got a digital meter to do that. It was pretty accurate but now I think about it, I need to get a control solution to ensure it's still calibrated.

I do appreciate the feedback, just was tired so again, sorry for sorta snapping in a don't get kicked out way.

 

[Newdude]

Test strips usually continue to change color. Many say to compare them at 15 seconds or such. With Ph being so similar across the acceptable range, there is a very slim window to see the correct shade *if* it was going to be right in the first place.

 

[Bigjohnrathfon]

Test strips usually continue to change color. Many say to compare them at 15 seconds or such. With Ph being so similar across the acceptable range, there is a very slim window to see the correct shade *if* it was going to be right in the first place.

No joke. I believe mine are read in 15 seconds after 2 second dip.

 

[Newdude]

I believe mine are read in 15 seconds

*at 15 seconds, not *in 15 seconds. There is too soon and too late and it's a moving target. It complicates the lackluster result even further.