Was trying to balance pool, salt cell is out, trying to get chlorine under control

[viiiwonder]

SO... I was trying to get PH and hardness under control starting last weekend, only to find that the salt cell wasn't producing because of 'low salt' (not true) - new trisensor is on its way, but I'm trying to keep things under control with liquid chlorine.

15000g saltwater

Reading by Leslies (sorry, yes, I now hate that place... for other reasons) on 5.28:
FC: 3.56
TC: 3.56
pH: 7.9
Alk: 102
Calcium Hardness: 165
CYA: 57
Phosphates: 460
Salt: 3476 (I can taste it in the water, we've been high, verified with my own salt test strips, the trisensor is clearly out of whack - replacement should be here this weekend)

After guests were over on Saturday, I noticed the pool was quite cloudy/greenish in tint. Checked salt cell - was not producing (Pool Pilot Digital - you can tell when it's just 'off')

Went to Leslies to get a better test kit (I've just been on strips since we bought the place 2 mos ago). Ended up buying the 5-way, not the 9 way; kicking myself for not just getting the Taylor from Amazon. Might do that anyways... (Question: can I get a good CYA test kit otherwise?) Also purchased 3 1-lb packs of leslie's Chlor Brite - added 1 lb on Sunday.

Also since the Leslies's test on 5.29:
I've added Muriatic acid and brought the PH down to 7.5 in the last few days (that is the reading as of today)
I've added 10lbs of Leslie's hardness plus to adjust calcium hardness - I can't measure that currently

This AM:
Rain last night, pool was cloudy brown.
Chlorine was at 0
Went by home depot; bought 4 1gallon jugs of 10% bleach chlorinating liquid, and some other algicide

1200: Put 1/2G of the 10% chlorinating liquid in
1330: Tested Chlorine (FC = 0, TC = 2); another 1/2G of 10% chlorine in
1530: Tested Chlorine (FC = 0, TC = 0)

Did the chlorine just do its thing and break down that quickly? How fast does CYA dissipate? I'm gonna take a sample to Leslies in a minute before traffic gets bad and see if I can also find a CYA kit/might pick up a 9-way (waste of money after buying the 5-way?)

Any thoughts on where to go next? dump another gallon of the chlorinating liquid in? Am I just playing catch up with the chlorine binding with contaminants and doing its job? I just don't want to overdo any chemicals, and I don't think I'm anywhere needing to hyperchlorinate.

I'm aware my phosphates are high... I have a bottle of nophos from Leslies that I've yet to use - wanted to make sure PH was right first.

I've also yet to crack my system3 canister filter since buying the house - I don't think it's been cleaned in 2 months, and this pool was opened very early when the sellers put it on the market.

Any general advice? Hoping to have the Autopilot generating chlorine again by Monday at the latest; it's in the shipping company's hands...

 

[viiiwonder]

Update:
added .5G of chlorine shortly after this original post; tested about an hour later to discover 2FC, 2.5TC, water is generally clear, bottom of pool is visible. I just added another .5G of Chlorine for a total of 2G 10% for the day. I feel like between what it bound with/disinfected and the sun got, I‘m back to maintaining until the tri-sensor gets here and further pushing my pH and hardness numbers into the ideal ranges.

Probably about time to open the filter this weekend and at least spray it down inside the system 3 half-base. Someone decided that under a 5 ft deck was the right place for this filter… like I don’t already have enough back problems.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Welcome to TFP,

Hopefully this reaches you before you spend more money at the pool store.

You ended up here just like most of us do. We rely on pool store testing and advice and our pools go downhill. You're not alone. We're here to help you get clan up your water and get wet. You have algae and you need to follow the SLAM Process to get rid of it.

First thing you need is a TFP recommended test kit (Test Kits Compared). The kits offered by tftestkits.net offer the best value. Before you get turned off by the price, you'll spend more with a couple trips to the pool store. When choosing a kit, make sure it to include the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.

For now, add 5 ppm of chlorine daily until your test kit arrives.

We'll be here ready to help and answer questions.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jeffchap]

Do *not* use the nophos. Take it back for a refund if you can. Phosphate levels are irrelevant in a properly maintained pool. Phosphates are food for algae. Eliminate the algae and the availability of food doesn't matter.

Chlorine is the only way to kill algae. Follow the advice above and get a test kit ordered and we can help you from there.

 

[viiiwonder]

Ok… honestly, I feel like the SWG going offline has been a good thing. I’ve learned more in the past 24 hours with it off than had it been on and me ignoring the pool.

I’m up to 3ppm of chlorine with 0 combined after 2 gallons of chlorine throughout the day today. I will continue to add, get a bigger test kit, return the nophos, etc.

Am I really at a point where I need to SLAM? This pool is clear and I feel much more in control. Ultimately, my core inquiry was “help, my SWG is offline, and I have no experience with liquid chlorine to survive until my parts arrive.”

I guess now I have to figure out volume of liquid chlorine to add daily to stabilize…

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

After guests were over on Saturday, I noticed the pool was quite cloudy/greenish in tint.

Am I really at a point where I need to SLAM?

See what I did there? For now, let's say maybe, but we won't know for sure until you complete an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. And, of course, you need the accuracy of a recommended test kit to do that.

I guess now I have to figure out volume of liquid chlorine to add daily to stabilize…

You pool is around 15K gallons, correct? Most pool chlorine sold at WalMart, HD, Lowes, Ace etc. is 10% strength. Add 3-quarts per day to increase FC by 5 ppm. We don't need to be exact at this point. We just want to get enough chlorine in the pool to cover normal daily FC loss of 2-4 ppm. With the SWG down, you'll need to continue adding chlorine daily during this time of year.

Don't worry, we'll get you on the right track.

Questions?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I’m up to 3ppm of chlorine

CYA: 57

Let's assume your results are accurate. Take a look at the FC/CYA Levels. With you SWG down, we treat your pool as a liquid chlorine pool. With a CYA level of 60 (always round up), the chart recommends a target FC level of 7-9 with a minimum of 5 ppm. This ratio helps to keep the pool safe and algae free.

You can download PoolMath or use the web version, Old PoolMath Webpage to help you calculate amounts of chemicals to add.

 

[viiiwonder]

OK... TF100 Pro Salt test kit is on order, new salt sensor is in and immediately registered 4400 PPM salt, so the cell is generating chlorine at full power; gonna keep it going on “boost” mode overnight. The water looks better than it has since we moved in at this point.

I’m starting to think nobody who told me the size of this pool knew what they were talking about. I can dump a whole gallon of 10% LC into this thing and it seems to only move it 2 PPM. It’s a big kidney with an extra bump on the side and a deep end. I’ll figure out the volume calculations and do my own math I guess.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Check out the pool size calculator on this page. It may help you get close.

PoolMath

When you get your test kit, take your time to obtain accurate results. Post up the results so we can take a look.

Even though the water is clear now, you did mention cloudiness with a green tint. It would be a good idea to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test once you master your testing skills. For now, enjoy the pool!

 

[viiiwonder]

So, my Leslies ‘Deluxe Poolcare DPD Test Kit’ (which has Taylor reagents) contains a comparator test apparatus which maxes out at 5 PPM chlorine. Given the proper chlorine level (7-9) for my (alleged) CYA level (last and only tested by Leslie’s staff), it occurs to me that this comparator/kit/method is not capable of measuring the appropriate chlorine levels.

I just checked the pictures of the TF Pro Salt and its comparator appears to be the same. If I need to measure chlorine levels that high regularly, is the OTO test basically worthless to me? (I have not reviewed instructions for the FAS/DPD test and don’t know if it even uses that comparator.) And is this generally true for salt water pool maintainers given the recommended CYA levels for a SWG?

(BTW… my current chlorine levels are enough to cause my current test results to be ‘darker in color’ than even the ‘5’ on my current comparator, so I’m ‘up there’. Can’t wait to get the TF Pro Salt kit.)

Water is crystal clear, but I still have some surface algae popping up. Reviewing the SLAM method now, again…

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Yeah, it looks like the kit is missing two critical components, the FAS/DPD FC drop test (Taylor K-1515A) and the CYA test (Taylor K-1721). The OTO test is [nearly] useless.

You can use your current test kit, but you really need those two components. You'll have to decide if it's better to purchase a complete kit or the components you need.

 

[viiiwonder]

I've already ordered the TF Pro Salt kit as a replacement to the Leslie's one I have. It has both the FAS/DPD and CYA tests.

 

[Deb04]

It’s a big kidney with an extra bump on the side and a deep end. I’ll figure out the volume calculations and do my own math I guess.

What’s the length and width? This is the shape I have. It’s 36 x 18 ft and it’s 19,000 gallons. shallow end is 3 ft, deep is 8 ft.

 

[viiiwonder]

What’s the length and width? This is the shape I have. It’s 36 x 18 ft and it’s 19,000 gallons. shallow end is 3 ft, deep is 8 ft.

I just stepped outside and used the iphone measure app - the AR claims it’s 30’ long and 13’ across; ends are 3 and 6.5, so maybe 15000G is on track. Might see if a neighbor has a drone that can take an aerial photo…

 

[Bperry]

I just stepped outside and used the iphone measure app - the AR claims it’s 30’ long and 13’ across; ends are 3 and 6.5, so maybe 15000G is on track. Might see if a neighbor has a drone that can take an aerial photo…

Be careful using the chlorine usage to determine size right now. If you have algae, it consumes chlorine very fast. And algae can still tend to be there and take a bit to really kill once it’s been growing even if the water appears clear. If it’s now clear, that’s a great sign but don’t let up just yet. The OCLT is what tells you if there is hidden algae still around eating chlorine or not.

The OTO test is worthless, almost. The new kit will be lots easier to use compared to strips and those other tests where you have to judge color differences. Although the pH test you’ll still need to differentiate colors, but it’s not so bad.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I've already ordered the TF Pro Salt kit as a replacement to the Leslie's one I have. It has both the FAS/DPD and CYA tests.

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