Wait To Turn On SWG?

[KeriCarter]

I read that the levels should be correct before turning on the new SWG.
We are out of whack here with our pump having been out since February.
Hopefully our new pump will be installed tomorrow and I can start correcting things quicker.
is it ok to start correcting everything in the same day and waiting 10 minutes between additions, or should I make sure one issue is solidly fixed before moving on? The water is mildly cloudy and I believe we are barely holding the algae at bay right now.
Do the levels all need to be perfectly in range before I turn the SWG?
I’d rather be safe than sorry, if needed.
Thanks guys!

FC 0-2 (with puck floaters and still drops very quickly after LC addition)

CC 0

PH 8+

TA 160

CH 80

CYA 0

CSI 0.02

Mildly Cloudy
Temp 66

I thought it was a black algae forming, but now I think it’s vulture poop that’s sticking to the plaster. Their reprieve is over.

 

[PoolStored]

The water is mildly cloudy and I believe we are barely holding the algae at bay right now.

You can do an OCLT (Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test). However to do that you need to get your FC up to Target for your CYA. You should raise your FC with Liquid chlorine. SWCG is good at maintaining, not raising. If you pass OCLT, no need to slam.

If it were me, any cloudy and I don't need to do OCLT, I'd get my SLAM on posthaste, and clear that cloudy.

 

[Bperry]

I read that the levels should be correct before turning on the new SWG.
We are out of whack here with our pump having been out since February.
Hopefully our new pump will be installed tomorrow and I can start correcting things quicker.
is it ok to start correcting everything in the same day and waiting 10 minutes between additions, or should I make sure one issue is solidly fixed before moving on? The water is mildly cloudy and I believe we are barely holding the algae at bay right now.
Do the levels all need to be perfectly in range before I turn the SWG?
I’d rather be safe than sorry, if needed.
Thanks guys!

FC 0-2 (with puck floaters and still drops very quickly after LC addition)

CC 0

PH 8+

TA 160

CH 80

CYA 0

CSI 0.02

Mildly Cloudy
Temp 66

I thought it was a black algae forming, but now I think it’s vulture poop that’s sticking to the plaster. Their reprieve is over.

Get some chlorine in there now and bump your CYA up to 30ppm and then start and complete a SLAM before turning on the new SWCG.

 

[mknauss]

Did this pool water have CYA in it before?

 

[KeriCarter]

Did this pool water have CYA in it before?

When we bought the house in June of last year, you guys helped me modify the test for CYA and 400 was what it came out to be. We drained and refilled until it settled in at 40 in September.
It did go a little swampy in Feb when the pump went out, until we got it under control.
We haven’t had a working pump since the end of January. That combined with an unusually high amount of rainfall has made using the pucks a losing battle.
I have been using LC, manually brushing, the dolphin to move water, but I was afraid to use too much without good circulation.
I hope this makes sense.
Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

When a pool goes to 0 CYA and has algae, good chance the CYA was converted to ammonia.
Read Ammonia - Further Reading

 

[KeriCarter]

When a pool goes to 0 CYA and has algae, good chance the CYA was converted to ammonia.
Read Ammonia - Further Reading

Thank you!
I think you are correct in the ammonia conversion. At one point I was getting a CC level >.5
Now that I’m back to a CC level of 0, is it safe to assume any ammonia produced is gone?
If I remember correctly, all the LC I’ve added should have cured the ammonia issue?

 

[mknauss]

Might be. The high pH, no CYA in water that had CYA, and quick elimination of chlorine all points to ammonia. Your choice, but I would do the quick test described in the article before adding any CYA, even trichlor.

 

[KeriCarter]

Might be. The high pH, no CYA in water that had CYA, and quick elimination of chlorine all points to ammonia. Your choice, but I would do the quick test described in the article before adding any CYA, even trichlor.

Good advice. I will definitely take the steps.
Have I been too cautious about not overusing LC without a pump running?
If you think it’s ok, I can start the steps tonight. If not, I’ll wait and pray the pool guy has the pump hooked up this week.

 

[mknauss]

You need the pump for good mixing to do the test.

Always add LC even without a pump. Brushing is good enough to disperse it.

 

[KeriCarter]

You need the pump for good mixing to do the test.

Always add LC even without a pump. Brushing is good enough to disperse it.

Got it. Thank you for all of your help.

 

[KeriCarter]

You can do an OCLT (Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test). However to do that you need to get your FC up to Target for your CYA. You should raise your FC with Liquid chlorine. SWCG is good at maintaining, not raising. If you pass OCLT, no need to slam.

If it were me, any cloudy and I don't need to do OCLT, I'd get my SLAM on posthaste, and clear that cloudy.

Got it. Thank you!
As soon as I have a working pump, I’ll do the ammonia test and the OCLT test.
For now, I’ll keep adding a bit of LC several times a day and brushing to mix.
I’m so ready to have a working pump!

 

[woodyp]

That Dolphin will help circulate a bunch.

 

[KeriCarter]

That Dolphin will help circulate a bunch.

Yes, I have kept it going almost continuously.
Can too much LC in the pool without the pump running damage the Dolphin?
That was one of my fears, but it could be just me being nervous

 

[PoolStored]

Can too much LC in the pool without the pump running damage the Dolphin?

Generally, if your LC is at SLAM level or below, you are likely fine. Following this thread, it is not clear your CYA level (0... I think) or FC level (0-2) at this point...

Might be smart to remove the Dolphin, until you figure out if you have ammonia issue, and get the CYA addition started (AFTER you figure out the ammonia issue), so your FC is at or below SLAM level for your CYA.

 

[KeriCarter]

Generally, if your LC is at SLAM level or below, you are likely fine. Following this thread, it is not clear your CYA level (0... I think) or FC level (0-2) at this point...

Might be smart to remove the Dolphin, until you figure out if you have ammonia issue, and get the CYA addition started (AFTER you figure out the ammonia issue), so your FC is at or below SLAM level for your CYA.

0 CYA is correct. I think you’re right. I was careless leaving the Dolphin in when I could have an ammonia issue. I had a false sense of security with a CC of zero. Thanks to you guys now I know that is not definitive.
I will take the dolphin out and remedy both as soon as our new pump is installed.
Prayers that it’s in tomorrow!
Thank you!