VOLT Garden Lighting

@Ahultin I'd be deciding more as to whether I wanted right half or left half at the moment, and probably would never split that. But, upgrading to front yard later could have need I guess. I have full 120v under eave, house exterior up lights, and ladscape that's all mounted in house elevation and controlled by house switches and timers. Nothing mounted in the dirt. These are all just going to be tree light on outer limits. Got a lot of good info before I buy. Thanks!
 
Not sure what "direct burial junction connector"

I tend to overcomplicate things, but I like options, especially when it comes to lighting. I have 12 lights (8 on dimmers) in my master suite alone! I have many moods. :)🤪😴🤩😵‍💫🥴🥳:sneaky::cry::unsure:😌😚
Direct burial junction connectors are just their wago 221 in a water resistant enclosure lol.

I have on more than one occasion been accused of overcompliacting things a bit 🤪🤣😜😉
 
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@Dirk Yeah, if I buy it now, I have to pick a timer method or assume my smart plug will automate it, which I don't know would not. Probably should email them and ask specifics on split transformers in there and possible configuration.
Unless I'm missing something, you'd plug an appliance-rated smart plug (not a dimmer type) into the transformer's internal outlet, then plug whatever was plugged into that into your smart plug. Easy (assuming there is enough room).

Depending on all the technologies in play, you might run into some signal interference, impacting the smart plug's reliability, but you can cross that bridge later if it occurs. Mine doesn't have an issue, so you'll probably be OK, too.
 
Unless I'm missing something, you'd plug an appliance-rated smart plug (not a dimmer type) into the transformer's internal outlet, then plug whatever was plugged into that into your smart plug. Easy (assuming there is enough room).

Depending on all the technologies in play, you might run into some signal interference, impacting the smart plug's reliability, but you can cross that bridge later if it occurs. Mine doesn't have an issue, so you'll probably be OK, too.
There is not enough room in the box unless you get one in which the female plug is on the side
Seems those are few and far between with both good reviews and a grounded outlet
 
There is not enough room in the box unless you get one in which the female plug is on the side
Seems those are few and far between with both good reviews and a grounded outlet
I saw your previous pic, but didn't quite grasp the timer bypass wiring. Appeared maybe just brought through and out timer plug and into transformer? Photo cell jumper come with transformer?
 
There is not enough room in the box unless you get one in which the female plug is on the side
You'd use some sort of 90° adapter or flat plug extension cord (of the proper wattage rating). Lots of ways to solve for that.

Maximm Cable 12 Ft 360° Rotating Flat Plug Extension Cord / Wire, Multi Outlet Extension Wire, 3 Prong Grounded Wire - Black - UL Certified
Tripp Lite Power Extension Cord Right-Angle 5-15P to 5-15R 14AWG 15A 6ft - SYNX5692303
FIRMERST 1875W Low Profile Flat Plug 1ft Extension Cord 14AWG 15A White
90° power cord adapter from www.amazon.com
 
I actually stand corrected, I tried two smart plugs. The larger rectangular amazon branded smart plug does not fit and allow the door to close but the smaller round TanTan branded one does. It puts a little pressure on the door but nothing a little push doesn't resolve.
Reality is though you'd likely want to plug one of these in at the main power cord anyhow for best wifi reception.
20230306_174338.jpg20230306_174325.jpg20230306_174514.jpg
 
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I saw your previous pic, but didn't quite grasp the timer bypass wiring. Appeared maybe just brought through and out timer plug and into transformer? Photo cell jumper come with transformer?
There is actually a short cord and plug inside the unit. Without a timer, the plug just plugs into the internal outlet. With a timer, the timer plugs into the outlet and the plug plugs into the side of the timer. The internal plug is separate from the external cord and plug that plugs into the wall.
Yes the photo cell bypass is included and bypassed by default .
 
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@Dirk apologies for getting off the smart-plug topic but great photos... what kind of lights are on your fence? I think they look great, and mine look like garbage.
I wrote about them (extensively, of course), but I can't now find the post. Short(ish?) version:

They're just strings of outdoor LED Christmas lights. They're dimmable. But I took a few extra steps that help them look a little better, and maybe last a little longer.

I enclosed them in that black flexible split loom stuff. That keeps the sun off the lights and wires. Maybe the loom will wear out sooner than the wire would have, who knows. But that stuff is cheaper than the light strings.

I attached the loom-covered lights to my fences with stainless steel wire (UV proof). I did so carefully such that the slot is facing down. That allowed me to position the lights in a near-perfect straight line, which looks great. If I had just wrapped the wire around the top of the fence rail (or stapled them to the wood section of my fence) the lights would have been facing every-which-way, and some would have likely been obscured from view depending on how they twisted and where I was while looking at them. That would have created a much less consistent line, with what would look like gaps in the array.

I also made a loop of the wire, including one light, at 8' intervals (at each fence post), and tucked that into the loom. The lights are not replaceable, which probably adds to their outdoor water resistance, but also makes them unrepairable. If I lose a bulb, I'll unravel the hidden loop and scoot the wire down the line to make up for the lost light. If I eventually lose too many, then I'll replace the whole string.

bistro lights.jpg
 
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I actually stand corrected, I tried two smart plugs. The larger rectangular amazon branded smart plug does not fit and allow the door to close but the smaller round TanTan branded one does. It puts a little pressure on the door but nothing a little push doesn't resolve.
Reality is though you'd likely want to plug one of these in at the main power cord anyhow for best wifi reception.
View attachment 476015View attachment 476016View attachment 476017
I use a smart switch inside my transformer box like you show. My only comment would be to make sure you get a good signal with the switch prior to committing to this set up (with the cabinet door closed) like you said. Remember, you are closing the switch inside a metal box with a transformer. Two things that are great for interfering with a wireless signal. Mine was a little flaky when I first installed it. After adding another access point, everything works more consistently.
 
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I use a smart switch inside my transformer box like you show. My only comment would be to make sure you get a good signal with the switch prior to committing to this set up (with the cabinet door closed) like you said. Remember, you are closing the switch inside a metal box with a transformer. Two things that are great for interfering with a wireless signal. Mine was a little flaky when I first installed it. After adding another access point, everything works more consistently.
That's why my smart devices are external to the VOLT transformer box and inside a plastic one. My devices (Insteon) act as repeaters for each other, and I've got four in the box, so it's a party! They use the 120V power line for signaling as well as RF (not WiFi). They call it "dual mesh."

Insteon has its downside (namely going out of business, or on the brink of), but the technology is pretty good.

If you have trouble with the smart device inside, you should be able to mount it elsewhere and plug the transformer into it. Alternately, you could use their internal timer outlet with extension cords run through the bottom and mount the smart device external to the metal box. I couldn't say off hand if one way is better than the other, or if there is a compelling reason to use the internal timer outlet instead of running the whole transformer box off a timer. That said:

Grounding and/or bonding could be an issue. I'd feel better if the box was well grounded, as opposed to relying on some inexpensive smart device to run the ground through. My transformer plugs into the outlet that is part of the pool's light wiring. So it's on the pool's GFCI and its ground is also connected to the pool's bond wire.

I don't know if bonding the transformer box to the pool's bond system is in order, but it's something to consider, especially if the lights are within range of the pool water. They're low voltage, and ungrounded, but they are metal fixtures, so...
 
I initially wrote VOLT late afternoon on March 1. The bulb was replaced and is working this afternoon (it showed up yesterday). Subtract the two days that was me "getting around to it," and two days for the weekend... that's pretty fast customer service to both troubleshoot and ship me a part... at no charge.

One satisfied customer here.
 
Just to update my situation mentioned in posts 5 and 16... I contacted them on March 3rd (4th really). I received my replacement fixture today and installed it. Works like a charm. 10 days, including transit times both ways. Great customer service from Volt and would happily recommend them as well!

Thanks again @Dirk for the reminder about their lifetime warranty, as I had completely forgotten about it and would have just bought another fixture.

--Jeff
 
Just to update my situation mentioned in posts 5 and 16... I contacted them on March 3rd (4th really). I received my replacement fixture today and installed it. Works like a charm. 10 days, including transit times both ways. Great customer service from Volt and would happily recommend them as well!

Thanks again @Dirk for the reminder about their lifetime warranty, as I had completely forgotten about it and would have just bought another fixture.

--Jeff
Awesome. So should I expect some sort of kickback? A check? Box of candy? A Starbucks coupon? Anything?
 
reminder about their lifetime warranty
I had totally forgotten about that, too. And even if I had remembered it, I wouldn't have thought that it would include lightbulbs (who does that)! I had almost ordered a new bulb off their site, and just happened to email them first. Their reply pointed out the warranty to me. So the kudos go to VOLT for reminding me and for honoring it so expeditiously, and without any additional "hidden" shipping and handling charges.
 
I wouldn't have thought that it would include lightbulbs (who does that)!
At $16 per bulb, I am glad they do that. The cost per bulb is one reason I ordered G4 bulbs from Amazon, because I got a pack of 10 for $13.

So the kudos go to VOLT for reminding me and for honoring it so expeditiously, and without any additional "hidden" shipping and handling charges.
I was completely shocked at them covering the return shipping. That puts them in the above and beyond category, in my book.

--Jeff
 
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I have everything in my shopping cart with Volt. I ordered with the custom bulb selection per wife's selection. Then, I see there's no return/refund on bulbs, an explicit exception to the other stuff, so my choice is locked in at the $17 a pop. But, knowing bulbs can be had cheaper, and what if we don't like selection in the end. Any thoughts if Amazon route is the better bulb market for this job?
 
I have everything in my shopping cart with Volt. I ordered with the custom bulb selection per wife's selection. Then, I see there's no return/refund on bulbs, an explicit exception to the other stuff, so my choice is locked in at the $17 a pop. But, knowing bulbs can be had cheaper, and what if we don't like selection in the end. Any thoughts if Amazon route is the better bulb market for this job?
The volt kits I ordered from Costco included the bulbs at a price point I could live with. The fixtures I ordered directly from VOLT (path lights and threaded uplights) I ordered without bulbs. My thinking was :
1. the bulbs can be had significantly cheaper on amazon even accounting for the lifetime warranty
2. I may want to tweak with color temps in various spots
3. For certain focal trees I went with smart mr16's so I could change colors for seasons if desired.
 

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