Vinyl 18x36 on the way. Here is the gameplan!

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The 15 yr old and friend have earned their steaks!!!

I wonder/hope that once you get the backfill and water it the sides will stabilize the walls so you will not see as much movement.

Here is thinking about your inspection tomorrow!!!

Kim:kim:
 
Keondgo said:
I got the aqua genie skimmers which i like but there really is no way to pressure test the return to pool line since there is no good access to that throat plate to plug the line.
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I pressure tested my aqua genie using an oatey PVC test plug fitting. When you have the throat off the return you can get in there an install the plug. I'll be surprised if the city passes you with out testing.

Shop Oatey PVC Test Plug Fitting at Lowes.com
 
mclifford said:
I pressure tested my aqua genie using an oatey PVC test plug fitting. When you have the throat off the return you can get in there an install the plug. I'll be surprised if the city passes you with out testing.

Shop Oatey PVC Test Plug Fitting at Lowes.com
Click to expand...


How in the world did you get it in there? i cant get my hand in there much less tighten the plug. County didnt even look at the plumbing. was just worried about my electrical trench depths and that I was doing this as a DIY project.
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I am going to state the obvious for people who are not familiar with the aqua genie. You will know what I am talking about since you have one.

On section D remove the 6 screws holding the plate on pressure chamber. (they come shipped off).

Take the oaty plug and loosen it up and push it into position. I used my fingers and some scrap metal that I had laying around that was bent on the end to push it into place. I used my fingers again to tighten the best I could, but ended up reaching in there with a wrench to tighten it up. It was a PITA to do, but had to be done.

And I only use my Chlorine Canister when on vacation for pucks :)
 
mclifford said:
I am going to state the obvious for people who are not familiar with the aqua genie. You will know what I am talking about since you have one.

On section D remove the 6 screws holding the plate on pressure chamber. (they come shipped off).

Take the oaty plug and loosen it up and push it into position. I used my fingers and some scrap metal that I had laying around that was bent on the end to push it into place. I used my fingers again to tighten the best I could, but ended up reaching in there with a wrench to tighten it up. It was a PITA to do, but had to be done.

And I only use my Chlorine Canister when on vacation for pucks :)
Click to expand...

I will give it a try! I really didnt think i could get a plug in there but I have such plug that i tested my other lines with so worth a shot. other lines check great so looking forward to these doing the same. Thanks!
 
Good Luck! Its looking good!

Once you get that back fill done the rain / water will be much easier to manage. I did the traditional Portland/sand mixture for my floor. I have very happy with the way it turned out.

Do you not have any ground water issues where you are at? I don't see a sump in your deep end? I was very glad I installed the sump in my deep end. It has already saved my rear once. There are several article on the net on how to install one. I plumbed it over to my equipment pad and pump it from there to my drain pipe.

Most pool builders install then measure for the liner so they get a nice tight fight and they can be a little more loose with there final tolerances. You seem very particular so I don't think this will be an issue. but make sure you set your string lines for the bottom and check and double check. Because your liner is already cut you want it to be done accuratly. Remember you can be a little under your your tolerances because the liner will stretch. And you would be surprised how much a liner will stretch.
 
mclifford said:
Good Luck! Its looking good!

Once you get that back fill done the rain / water will be much easier to manage. I did the traditional Portland/sand mixture for my floor. I have very happy with the way it turned out.

Do you not have any ground water issues where you are at? I don't see a sump in your deep end? I was very glad I installed the sump in my deep end. It has already saved my rear once. There are several article on the net on how to install one. I plumbed it over to my equipment pad and pump it from there to my drain pipe.

Most pool builders install then measure for the liner so they get a nice tight fight and they can be a little more loose with there final tolerances. You seem very particular so I don't think this will be an issue. but make sure you set your string lines for the bottom and check and double check. Because your liner is already cut you want it to be done accuratly. Remember you can be a little under your your tolerances because the liner will stretch. And you would be surprised how much a liner will stretch.
Click to expand...

No Groundwater issues at all! Thank goodness, Only have to deal with rain. I heard one pool builder say they could do sand/portland bottom in half the time. I asume you did a dry mix then misted with water?
 
I wouldnt do the bottom til after you have the forms poured for the deck. with that clay it will swell and prob crack the verm and need lots of touching up before your ready for liner. I did steel walls for this very reason I read about the movement in plastic, the steel bows between the studs when you pour concrete only the tops stay true but thats all you see anyway. You can be off with the verm the liner stretches alot, I am close and had no problems just make sure shallow end is right on thats the least stretch the deep end goes anywhere in the ballpark. how much concrete you got behind the walls in the pic I just see dirt gravel or is that on top of the footing
 
I did my pool bottom first because I didn't want all the wheel barrel traffic on my new deck. I know you can cover it up, but I didn't want risk getting anything on it. When they poured my deck there was a little clean up on the inside that needed to be done, but very little clean up. As you can see in my picture my liner was after the deck was done. Really I think its a tomato, tamato situation. What works best for you.
 

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I ve got 8” collar poured all around. All backfill with clean stone (almost done). Intend to get bonding done in the next couple of days so I can get that inspected and get deck poured. Then it will be a timing thing of getting bottom ready for liner and filling when I have a good couple of day weather window. Electrical and plumbing ongoing. Fencing on the way and I will get that done once deck is poured. The top of my polymer wall is bowed some too. Enough that you can look down the walls and know where the braces are. Not sure how to handle that with the liner track. I pulled some stone back out and tried to push it back but there is no bracing that’s gonna hold it perfect. Wondering if I can keep the liner track straight with the top of wall setback 1/4” in places so my concrete forms are nice and straight? Also trying to get hydra pool how to handle the steel step to wall transition with the 45 bends to see if that’s how the liner is cut to fit or what. On the top step there are inside 45 bends but they said to make those 6” radius. People kept warning me about the big things but it’s the little stuff that is bugging me.
 
Could you take some pictures of your pain points so I can see them.

When I installed my steel walls I got them all as straight and plumb as I possibly could. After I poured my bond beam I still had to go back and make some adjustments on my turnbuckles. However I think you might be at a disadvantage with the polymer walls. They don't have the turn buckles.

what style coping did you choose? have you opened all the little boxes for your liner and see if they included some very small 6 inch radius coping pieces?

I understand that you are a fussy guy and want things to be perfect. You have to understand they build these pools with some tolerances that can be worked worth. You have the advantage and probably take WAY more care then the crews that are installing these 5 and 6 at a time.
 
423D8CD3-843C-45F4-AB9C-FFE61B96BD06.jpeg
This is one wall. Kinda hard to see without the string line.right in that middle panel is probaly the worse. I have cantilever coping forms for concrete so my track is setup for that. I got no little bends but I do have 4 long pieces setup for bending with the notches cutout in back.
 
That does have a lot of warp and I would have to admit it would keep me up at night thinking about it. My guess is hydra pool will tell you the same thing that I am about to tell you.

When you install your coping (liner track) it will "cover up" or compensate for the warp. Once you have your liner in track you will never see that wave in the panel.

Hindsight is 20/20 but I wonder if you should have installed your coping as soon as you had them all leveled and plumb to avoid the warping. I think in the end you will be just fine.
 

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