After turning on the pool cleaner, I noticed immediately that it didn’t sound right. Usually hear a sound of water turning on but this time it was a loud vibration sound and polaris isn’t moving. Any ideas? Here is a link to the video.
Vibration sound and cleaner not moving
- Thread starter jendelta
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the Polaris booster pump turning on?
Feel the hoses connected to the booster pump and see if you can feel water flowing through when you turn it on.
Sounds like you have a problem in or around the booster pump.
Feel the hoses connected to the booster pump and see if you can feel water flowing through when you turn it on.
Sounds like you have a problem in or around the booster pump.
Seems to be but it’s hard to tell for sure because of the vibration coming from the the booster pump.
Seems to be but it’s hard to tell for sure because of the vibration coming from the the booster pump.
Thanks! I will give it a go and order a new one. Seems like an easy fix. Hopefully this is the issue.
If you turn the shaft access cover 1/4 turn counterclockwise, it will come off.
The plastic tabs break easily, so you should have a spare on hand to replace the old one.
The plastic tabs break easily, so you should have a spare on hand to replace the old one.
Magnetek/Century Bearing Cap, Century | 628932-002
Magnetek/Century 628932-002 Bearing Cap, Century
www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com
A.O. Smith Bearing Cap (628932-002) - INYOPools.com
BEARING CAP (628932-002) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com
So this morning I noticed the cleaner in a different location and all the leaves it cleaned up over night. Went out and successfully removed the cap and the shaft turns just fine. Turned the pool on and stared up the cleaner and all seems to be fine now. No humming at all. So strange!
I would get a capacitor to have available if the problem happens again.
You can test the capacitor by removing it and checking the capacitance with a multimeter that tests capacitance.
You can also check the capacitance by measuring the amperage and voltage under load and using this formula.
Capacitance in microfarads = current in amps times 2,652/volts.
C = 2,652 x amps/volts.
Amps x 2,652 ÷ capacitor voltage = microfarads.
You can also check the power factor.
If the power factor is above 0.94, the capacitor is probably good.
If the power factor is below 0.94, the capacitor is probably bad and needs to be replaced.
Note: Do not do any electrical work or tests unless you are experienced and you are 100% sure that you know how to do the work and tests safely.
Testing live power is inherently dangerous and should only be done by people who are qualified to work on live equipment.
You can test the capacitor by removing it and checking the capacitance with a multimeter that tests capacitance.
You can also check the capacitance by measuring the amperage and voltage under load and using this formula.
Capacitance in microfarads = current in amps times 2,652/volts.
C = 2,652 x amps/volts.
Amps x 2,652 ÷ capacitor voltage = microfarads.
You can also check the power factor.
If the power factor is above 0.94, the capacitor is probably good.
If the power factor is below 0.94, the capacitor is probably bad and needs to be replaced.
Note: Do not do any electrical work or tests unless you are experienced and you are 100% sure that you know how to do the work and tests safely.
Testing live power is inherently dangerous and should only be done by people who are qualified to work on live equipment.
Last edited: