Valve Actuator /Solar

[AAB]

Good afternoon,
i am hoping for some advice and guidance with the following;
I have solar panels to heat the pool. When the filter is running...There is water dripping from - please see photo B&C. ( I noted in green on photo B) the piece that is dripping).
Photo A shows the set up. The Actuator is GVA-24.
I do not have any manual / paperwork on the valve/s set up......and a novice here...but i'm sure the handle on the GVA-24 is supposed to turn automatically?...which is doesn't.

Any help would be very much appreciated

 

[ajw22]

That looks like a Heliocol vacuum relief valve.

Amazon.com: HELIOCOL 3/4" New Vacuum Relief Valve Pool Solar Panels - New White : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: HELIOCOL 3/4" New Vacuum Relief Valve Pool Solar Panels - New White : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

Vacuum Relief Valve for Solar Pool Heaters

A solar pool heater Vacuum Relief Valve, or VRV, is not to relieve excess heat and pressure, but to allow air into the system and avoid negative air pressure.

floridasolardesigngroup.com

The vacuum relief valve should be installed on the highest point of your solar panel system, not where it is.

I will turn you over to @Dirk to figure out what else is wrong with your solar system and how to fix it properly.

 

[Dirk]

Hey AAB! Can I call you AB for short?

As Allen points out, that is your vacuum breaker and it's probably in a bad spot. I'm not sure if that's why it's leaking, but you might be better off just replacing it when you move it.

It doesn't need to be at the highest point of your solar system. I recall it needs to be at least 6' from the ground, but higher is better. I placed mine just under my roof eve, so about 10' from the ground, so that it could stay out of the sun. They're PVC, and the less UV on it the better, the longer it'll last. So I'd say purchase a new one, and a new PVC tee and elbow, along with whatever PVC reducers and adapters to recreate the setup you have now. Just take the new breaker down to Lowes or HD and put together what you need. Be sure you buy PVC schedule 40 pressure fittings, NOT DWV fittings. I you don't know the difference, we can help you with that. Then cut the pipe up by the roof (or wherever you decide to move it to) and cut out the old one at the same time. Use couplers and lengths of PVC pipe and PVC primer and glue (solvent) to put everything back together. Lowes sells 2' lengths of PVC, so that should be enough. That's assuming you have some DIY PVC experience. If not, if you buy the parts, a local pool guy could glue it up for you in 10 minutes.

Now if you really want to future-proof your system, I would use this same "remodel" opportunity to get rid of those two PVC ball valves. The ones with the red handles. They will eventually fail, if they haven't already. They'll either cease to work well, or at all, or they'll seize up or start leaking, or all of the above. Those are your solar isolation valves, and they're not really needed in Florida. They're used to isolate the rooftop plumbing and the solar panels from the rest of your pool plumbing. You might need that if you had freezing temps for long stretches, or maybe for some sort of obscure repair situation. But the GVA-24 and a proper check valve will isolate just as well, neither of which will give you problems down the road like those two ball valves will. This is how my system is plumbed. I don't have, and don't need, won't ever need, isolation valves. So...

When you cut out the old vacuum breaker, cut out the ball valve, too, and replace both with straight pipe. When you cut below the ball valve, cut right up next to the valve, that will leave you enough pipe coming out of the GVA-24 to glue on a PVC coupler. That'll take care of the left side.

On the right side, cut out the ball valve and replace it with one of these. Be sure you get the correct size for the pipe you have:

Amazon.com : 2 Pack of Jandy 7305 Pool/Spa Plumbing Swing Check Valve 2''-2.5'' by CMP 25830-714-000 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : 2 Pack of Jandy 7305 Pool/Spa Plumbing Swing Check Valve 2''-2.5'' by CMP 25830-714-000 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

I've led you to a pair of those, because you might need to replace a second one. Can you post some pics of the rest of your equipment pad? We're looking for a check valve that goes between your filter and the solar valve (the GVA-24). I think I see one just below the GVA-24, but it looks to be an inferior one, which would go along with the cheap ball valves the original plumber used. So if that is the case, you might buy two Jandy check valves and upgrade all of that at the same time. I can tell better with more pics...

IMPORTANT: Whenever you work on your pool pad, especially when replumbing anything, turn off all the circuit breakers to everything on your pad. You don't want anything firing up inadvertently while you have your plumbing apart.

OK, not exactly what you asked. Regarding the GVA-24 operation: Typically your solar valve will be controlled by a solar controller, along with water and air temperature sensors, that calculate when to turn that valve open and closed to best heat your pool. The controller will likely be mounted on the wall near the pad somewhere, so take some pics of that, too, please. If there is a door, open it and take some pics of the insides, too. It'll have some wires coming out of it. One for power, one to the GVA-24, and two more, one to each temp sensor. One of the sensors will be on the roof. The other will be embedded into one of the PVC pipes somewhere on you pad.

Let's get some pics of all that and go from there...

 

[AAB]

Thank you so much for responding and providing detailed insight.
I've attached some additional photo's.
I am, & will sound like a novice here, so please bear with me...but i will backtrack a little.
The water level in the pool dropped so i was searching for the reason. I checked for leaks around light fixture, jets etc , didn't 'see/find' anything, then seen the water dripping from the VRV. So would this be the cause?
Regarding the solution. I do not have much DIY experience but do attempt some projects, although with this it sounds like i would seek help from a pool guy to 'remodel' to a better set up. which i am ( with whats going on in these crazy times) currently not in a position to spend $$$. Hence me taking on the pool maintenance, but i am learning and know more now than i ever did before! haha.
is my 1st step to replace the VRV?
if so, ( will order asap) until i receive that should i run the pool as normal? or do i need to isolate the solar..how do i do that? the drip is not huge and doesn't seem constant.
As i described i am a kinda 'set & forget' kinda guy but regarding the GVA-24, shouldn't the handle turn when the system comes on?

Thanks again

 

[Dirk]

Yes, replace the VRV. That is a simple task. Be sure the one you order has the same threads. I think they are 3/4", but double check that. They just screw in, but you'd want to use some teflon tape on the threads of the new one.

I doubt that is causing the pool level to drop, based on how much water you're describing coming out of the VRV. A pool evaporates a lot. More than you'd think. It's winter, so it'll be much more in the summer, but you're in FL so I'm not sure what your evaporation rate would be this time of year. First thing to do is a bucket test. That will help you determine if your pool is leaking, or just evaporating. Here:

Leak Detection

A number of things can cause leaks in your pool. You can learn tricks for leak detection and how to pinpoint where your pool is losing water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes, continue to run the pool as normal, just keep an eye on the water level and don't let it drop anywhere near to the bottom of the skimmer opening. That would be bad, as that can starve the pump and possibly cause some damage.

Does your pool have an auto-fill system? Otherwise, you gotta keep it topped off with the ol' garden hose. That might be as often as everyday, depending on your climate conditions.

A pool is not a "set & forget" kinda thing. Better get used to that. It requires regular maintenance, whether you use it or not. Depending on the time of year, your climate, your equipment and how you use the pool, that might mean something to do or check or test once a week, or once a day. We can talk more about how to automate your pool to minimize maintenance, and the TFP method will also help you reduce chores. But TFP stands for "Trouble Free Pool," not maintenance free! Welcome to pool ownership!!

The solar valve will turn based on the current weather conditions and how the solar controller is set (timer, thermostat setting, etc). So no, it won't necessarily automatically come on. Perhaps the system is just off right now. The picture you provided is not large/clear enough to be sure, but it does appear to be in off mode. If you meant, shouldn't the handle turn when you turn on the solar system, then the answer is maybe. The controller analyzes the water temp and the available heat on the roof panels, and turns on if the conditions are such that the panels could actually heat the pool. If there is not enough heat available, then no, it wouldn't come on. That's assuming it's actually working, which we don't yet know.

You should find online the owner manual for your solar controller and read it. That should get you up to speed on how your system works and how to program it and get it going. If after that, you can't get it running, then we can help you troubleshoot that.

 

[AAB]

Thank you,
The VRV is on order.
Is there a reason the drip from the VRV is not consistent? today i checked very regularly and didn't see any dripping or no wet patch on surface below?
No auto fill, just the garden hose. I did do another check of the jets/ light fixture with some dye and did find a small leak...which i used some putty ( from the pool store) as a temp measure. The water bucket test is in progress, so i will provide an update.
you are correct, the solar controller is off as the temps in FL recently have been pretty low...( it sounds wrong saying that compared to the snow the rest of the country is facing..).
The 'set and forget' was geared towards the solar. I should....need...and want to understand the set up more. I will turn on the solar controller and am sure the weather will turn better in the next few days, then i guess i should monitor the GVA? and take it from there?
Another question, ( just for my reference) is on those red handled valves, I would like to know how to bypass or isolate the solar in a worse case scenario..if i ever needed to isolate the solar for service or repair...how would i do that?

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge,

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I think any VRV in that position will leak. It's simply too low. When the solar turns off, the VRV will open and water will flow down the supply pipe and drain out the VRV (probably slowly). The VRV needs to be high up near the panels. The purpose of the VRV is to let air into the panels, not the plumbing.

 

[Dirk]

Is there a reason the drip from the VRV is not consistent? today i checked very regularly and didn't see any dripping or no wet patch on surface below?

I couldn't say. I've never seen mine drip. It could be that it's dripping because it's too low. Contrary to others' notes, it does not need to be up on the roof, or at the highest point. But it does need to be higher than where yours is.

Sorry, what is GVA?

To isolate your solar system, you would turn the two red handles just above your solar valve 90° (perpendicular to the pipe). If you re-plumb to get rid of those, as I recommended, and replace the one on the right with a check valve, then the solar valve in "solar off" position and the check valve will isolate everything above them. Which is why you don't need them.

It's important that if you do turn either of those two red handles, that your solar valve be in the "solar off" position and your solar controller is off or better yet completely de-energized. Should the solar controller call for heat, or you have your solar valve in "solar on" position with either isolation valve closed, you'll deadhead your pump and possibly cause some damage. If just the right one is closed, then you'll likely blowout one or more of the little tubes on the solar panels.

Fingers crossed for your bucket test. Hopefully no leaks!

 

[ajw22]

Sorry, what is GVA?

Jandy solar valve actuator.

 

[Dirk]

Duh, thanks Allen. I wrote it enough times in my previous! Old brain...

Yep, keep an eye on the solar valve handle when you can and get a sense of when it comes on and off. Yes, solar will eventually be "set and forget." You dial in the temp you want and the controller should do the rest. The pool might not always get to the desired temp, based on weather conditions, but the controller will try.

 

[JamesW]

Some panels require that the vacuum breaker be at the top of the panels to prevent a vacuum from crushing the panels.

Some allow the vacuum breaker to be placed lower to reduce air being pulled into the return stream and to lower the pump power usage.

Here are the instructions from Heliocol.

AUTOMATIC DRAIN DOWN - The panels and the PVC pipe should be installed so the water will drain out of them when the pool pump shuts off. This is especially important in areas of the country where freezing conditions occur. (The Heliocol solar pool panels are warranted against internal freezing when installed to allow for drain down.) To allow for the water to drain, a vacuum breaker (121) is installed on the solar feed line above the non-positive three-way valve as shown in (Fig. 13.1, page 22).

Install the (121) vacuum breaker about 4’ up the feed line and above the top of the filter using a PVC tee and reducer bushing. Face the tee to the outside as shown in Fig. 13.1. Wrap the threads of the vacuum breaker with Teflon tape and screw it into the 3/4” threaded reducer bushing.

https://shop.solardirect.com/pdf/pool-heaters/solar-pool-heaters/Heliocol-Installation-Manual.pdf

Here is a vacuum breaker you can get locally.

EASTMAN 3/4 in. MIP Vacuum Relief Valve 60158 - The Home Depot

The Eastman vacuum relief valve is built with high-impact brass, providing strength and durability. It has a 3/4-inch male iron pipe connection and features a protective cap. This vacuum valve is used

www.homedepot.com

 

[JamesW]

Sorry, what is GVA?

GVA = Goldline (Hayward) Valve Actuator.

JVA = Jandy Valve Actuator.

CVA = Compool (Pentair) valve actuator.