Hi. I have been trying to use Pristine Blue in my pool, but I can't seem to get it clear and keep it clear. It is green and I just refilled it last month. Please help. I have a testing kit for the copper and I also bought a Taylor testing kit for everything else. I need to know how to change to chlorine please.
Using Pristine Blue and would like to convert to Chlorine
- Thread starter Debbie45
- Start date
Welcome! 
Luckily for you, despite all the hype, Pristine blue is a chlorine system with the addition of copper sulfate. Downsides: staining, green hair, unsanitary, CYA buildup from too much dichlor in their "Pristine Extra."
Before you waste a lot of time and chemicals, use your copper test and the CYA test in your new kit. In fact, you ought to run every single test you can and post the results, because high test results can point towards a drain and it's a waste of money treat water today and pump it out tomorrow.
Once we have results, we can advise. It won't be too awful to make the switch, not like Baquacil. The worst thing is that you may need to change a lot of water.
Luckily for you, despite all the hype, Pristine blue is a chlorine system with the addition of copper sulfate. Downsides: staining, green hair, unsanitary, CYA buildup from too much dichlor in their "Pristine Extra."
Before you waste a lot of time and chemicals, use your copper test and the CYA test in your new kit. In fact, you ought to run every single test you can and post the results, because high test results can point towards a drain and it's a waste of money treat water today and pump it out tomorrow.
Once we have results, we can advise. It won't be too awful to make the switch, not like Baquacil. The worst thing is that you may need to change a lot of water.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,722
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello Debbie and welcome to TFP! Now that you're ready to change, we should confirm a few things:
- You say "refilled", does that mean you literally emptied the whole pool to remove the water filled with copper from Pristine Blue? Or do you suspect there is some other metal in the water (i.e. iron from a well)?
- Which Taylor kit are you using, and can you past the following for us please:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH (will be "N/A" for your vinyl anyways)
This will help us a lot. Nice yo have you with us.
Rats! Richard beat me to the post.
Now that you're ready to change, we should confirm a few things:- You say "refilled", does that mean you literally emptied the whole pool to remove the water filled with copper from Pristine Blue? Or do you suspect there is some other metal in the water (i.e. iron from a well)?
- Which Taylor kit are you using, and can you past the following for us please:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH (will be "N/A" for your vinyl anyways)
This will help us a lot. Nice yo have you with us.
Rats! Richard beat me to the post.
You don't think that if CH is 1200 that some replacement is needed?Hello Debbie and welcome to TFP!
- You say "refilled", does that mean you literally emptied the whole pool to remove the water filled with copper from Pristine Blue? Or do you suspect there is some other metal in the water (i.e. iron from a well)?
- Which Taylor kit are you using, and can you past the following for us please:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH (will be "N/A" for your vinyl anyways)
This will help us a lot. Nice yo have you with us.
Rats! Richard beat me to the post.
Alright, my readings are as follows:
Copper-.5ppm
Ph-8.0
TA-200
CH-1800
FC-1ppm
CC-0
CYA-60ppm
Copper-.5ppm
Ph-8.0
TA-200
CH-1800
FC-1ppm
CC-0
CYA-60ppm
Is that CH number right? Not a typo or a simple arithmetic error? Because that's huge. Higher than people who live in Arizona. It could only get that way if a) you have extremely hard water -- you'd know it from the clogged up showerheads and coffeemakers -- or b)someone sold you a bucket of cal-hypo shock.
At any rate, the Copper is too high, so it looks like you'll need to drain about half. If that CH is right, you'll want to drain even more.
I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but it's less painful now than it will be later in the season when you've gotten things all perfect and sparkling.
Refilled means I refilled this year because I couldn't ever get it straight last year and just let it go. So, stupid me, refilled this year and put Pristine Blue in it and having the same problems of it looking green/yellow-green. Took water to pool store where I bought the pool and added what they told me to and still same color. Cannot enjoy the pool and working on it all the time! UGH!
- - - Updated - - -
That's the number I got. I put Boost shock in it and PH minus per the pool store. Alright.....my bad, just retested and it's 250. Sound better? lol
- - - Updated - - -
That's the number I got. I put Boost shock in it and PH minus per the pool store. Alright.....my bad, just retested and it's 250. Sound better? lol
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,722
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We know the feeling:
Well, now that you're here, you'll receive good advice and nothing based off of sale or commission. Like Richard said, your copper is over the threshold we like to see and the only way to lower is water exchange. But once you do, and use only the recommended chemicals here at TFP (bleach, muriatic acid, baking soda, etc) you'll be in much better shape.
Hang in there. After you do a good water exchange, post some new results and we'll be happy to help you get ready for summer.
Well, now that you're here, you'll receive good advice and nothing based off of sale or commission. Like Richard said, your copper is over the threshold we like to see and the only way to lower is water exchange. But once you do, and use only the recommended chemicals here at TFP (bleach, muriatic acid, baking soda, etc) you'll be in much better shape.
Hang in there. After you do a good water exchange, post some new results and we'll be happy to help you get ready for summer.
Sorry, I can't see where I was replying. Tested it again and I was so wrong....250 is the right reading. lol
- - - Updated - - -
So, I should drain half of the water and retest, then you can help me with what to do?
- - - Updated - - -
So, I should drain half of the water and retest, then you can help me with what to do?
Absolutely. Were it not for the copper, we'd have you fixed up before the weekend is over.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,379
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I'm not arguing with Richard320 here and you can drain as he specifies. Water is cheap enough in FL that it should be ok to do that.
However, if you did not want to drain, you could simply target a lower pH, say around 7.4, and use a metal sequestrant to keep the copper in solution and not have to worry about staining. Over time, with backwashing and splash out, your concentration of copper will decrease naturally.
Up to you.
However, if you did not want to drain, you could simply target a lower pH, say around 7.4, and use a metal sequestrant to keep the copper in solution and not have to worry about staining. Over time, with backwashing and splash out, your concentration of copper will decrease naturally.
Up to you.
Alright, I am back with new numbers:
Copper-0.2ppm
pH-8.0
FC-0
CC-0
TA-200
CH-200
CYA-40ppm
Now what should I do?
Copper-0.2ppm
pH-8.0
FC-0
CC-0
TA-200
CH-200
CYA-40ppm
Now what should I do?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,722
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hi Debbie! We were all taking a nap. Your latest numbers:
- Much better on the copper. Still requires careful management, but should be something you can handle as follows:
-- Lower your pH right away (muriatic acid). With a vinyl pool and no CH concerns, I'd take it to about 7.2-7.4 and keep it there for now. Copper does better with a lower pH.
-- Add some bleach right away. You exchanged water, but you still have algae. Perhaps a little green and/or cloudiness right? So you still need to SLAM. The elevated SLAM FC level (based on your CYA) is "16". Now keep in mind the elevated FC might "anger" your copper and make it change color or try to stain - maybe. Just depends. But before adjusting everything for metals, you must conquer the algae first. So increase FC to 16 and begin your SLAM (link below). Don't stop the SLAM instructions until you pass ALL 3 SLAM criteria.
-- Once you pass the SLAM, you'll let the FC fall to a more normal daily rate which should also help prevent water color changes and staining.
Lastly, after the SLAM and lowering of FC, we'll help you lower the TA which should help keep the pH form climbing too fast. So a quick re-cap:
1. Lower pH to 7.2; test about 30 min later to confirm and/or adjust more if needed
2. Increase FC to "16" and follow everything on the SLAM page until you pass all 3 criteria.
3. After the SLAM, we'll help you address any other copper issues (if present) and lower the TA.
Hope that helps.
Remember - (Safety) never add muriatic acid and bleach at the same time. Separate them by about 20-30 minutes with the pump on high. Pour slowly near a return jet(s) and brush the area if you feel circulation is needed.
We were all taking a nap. Your latest numbers:- Much better on the copper. Still requires careful management, but should be something you can handle as follows:
-- Lower your pH right away (muriatic acid). With a vinyl pool and no CH concerns, I'd take it to about 7.2-7.4 and keep it there for now. Copper does better with a lower pH.
-- Add some bleach right away. You exchanged water, but you still have algae. Perhaps a little green and/or cloudiness right? So you still need to SLAM. The elevated SLAM FC level (based on your CYA) is "16". Now keep in mind the elevated FC might "anger" your copper and make it change color or try to stain - maybe. Just depends. But before adjusting everything for metals, you must conquer the algae first. So increase FC to 16 and begin your SLAM (link below). Don't stop the SLAM instructions until you pass ALL 3 SLAM criteria.
-- Once you pass the SLAM, you'll let the FC fall to a more normal daily rate which should also help prevent water color changes and staining.
Lastly, after the SLAM and lowering of FC, we'll help you lower the TA which should help keep the pH form climbing too fast. So a quick re-cap:
1. Lower pH to 7.2; test about 30 min later to confirm and/or adjust more if needed
2. Increase FC to "16" and follow everything on the SLAM page until you pass all 3 criteria.
3. After the SLAM, we'll help you address any other copper issues (if present) and lower the TA.
Hope that helps.
Remember - (Safety) never add muriatic acid and bleach at the same time. Separate them by about 20-30 minutes with the pump on high. Pour slowly near a return jet(s) and brush the area if you feel circulation is needed.