Two-Year-Old Pool Major Discoloration and Bleaching
- Thread starter MattInTexas
- Start date
Remove 1 bottom bolt and if water comes out, it's bad.
You should probably remove the whole manifold to check the copper.
You should probably remove the whole manifold to check the copper.
This is all poolstore numbers which is meaningless 99.9% of the time but that's not to say that the water balance isn't out of wack.
And a lot of copper sure does the job in this case possibly.
Just to reitterate a mention from an earlier post. You need to buy a TF-PRO test kit, or a Taylor 2006-C test kit (both available here: TFtestkits.net) . Don't go to Leslie's anymore or other pool stores. You need PROPER reagent testing, -especially- inheriting the problems you inherited, and not guess-testing like the pool stores do, or test-strips (bad) do. Once you order a proper test kit, download the POOL MATH app to you phone too, you'll need it for recording values, etc. moving forward.
The good news is, you WILL get all this figured out, don't despair because you'll end up being super knowledgeable with all this given time and a willingness to listen and read up on articles here. Get all the pool equipment area stuff fixed/addressed (great recommendations here so far in this thread), and your pool surface/staining can be corrected too. I know this is a LOT for a new pool/home owner to absorb, but listen to these folks here, TFP'ers are very good at working you through the RIGHT way to solve your pool problems. You're really on the right path.
The good news is, you WILL get all this figured out, don't despair because you'll end up being super knowledgeable with all this given time and a willingness to listen and read up on articles here. Get all the pool equipment area stuff fixed/addressed (great recommendations here so far in this thread), and your pool surface/staining can be corrected too. I know this is a LOT for a new pool/home owner to absorb, but listen to these folks here, TFP'ers are very good at working you through the RIGHT way to solve your pool problems. You're really on the right path.
Decoy205
Silver Supporter
The test kit will save you tons of money definitely get it on order asap. The folks here will help get you on track and try to help you not waste any time or money. Take it step by step. The knowledge here is amazing and all they want back is to see you post up a pic of your clear pool!
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Morning! Ok, so trying to remove manifold so y'all can see the copper. I have all the water lines shut off and I don't believe there is coming back in from the outlet pipes. But, the manifold is taking a while to drain. Is this normal? I've attached pictures of the valve and flow rate to show that water should be off? Also, no water comes up from top of filter housing when releasing pressure.
Attachments
The heat exchanger is copper tubes.
Water should only be going through the tubes.
If water is coming out of the bolt holes, then the tub (combustion chamber) is filling with water due to a hole in the copper tubes.
Water should only be going through the tubes.
If water is coming out of the bolt holes, then the tub (combustion chamber) is filling with water due to a hole in the copper tubes.
If water came out when you removed the bolts, then the tub is full of water and probably a leak in the heat exchanger.
Here is what it should look like inside (dry with no water in the tub).
Here is what it should look like inside (dry with no water in the tub).
Does this mean new coil assembly? Or entirely new heater?
In my opinion, it is like a car that has been in a flood where the insurance company writes it off as a total loss.
You can open the combustion chamber to see the heat exchanger or pressure test the heater, but I think that it is probably ruined.
I would not put money into this heater.
You can open the combustion chamber to see the heat exchanger or pressure test the heater, but I think that it is probably ruined.
I would not put money into this heater.
You can unscrew the black part from the heater and cap it until you are ready to replace the heater.
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Hey James and Team,
Question for you: The heater is working. Is it ruined in another fashion? Why it isn't it a good idea to put money into repairing the heater? What are the downsides of just repairing it? Is it more likely to leak again? Is it because it'll continue to introduce cooper?
If a new heater is the way to go, we will do it. Just wanting to understand how it's ruined and why it likely won't be a good idea to repair it.
Thank you!
Are you saying it fires up and runs well with no problems?
Once you get water damage, it can get into the blower motor and other components.
I would open the combustion chamber and see what it looks like inside.
You can replace the heat exchanger if you want, but it is a gamble.
If it works and runs for years with no problems, you win.
If you need to keep replacing parts at hundreds of dollars for each part and spending tens of hours working on the heater then you lose.
Only you can decide which path to choose.
The person in this video chose to replace the heat exchanger.
If you can verify that all other parts are good, then it might be worthwhile.
If you replace the heat exchanger and you find that you need to replace the blower (About $700.00) and then the circuit board (About $460.00) etc. you have to decide to continue to spend time and money or give up abandon the old heater and buy new, which means that you lose all time and money spent on the old heater.
So, maybe you spend $1,300.00 and then $700.00 and then $460.00 before you finally give up and you lose $2,460.00 plus about 10 to 20 hours dealing with working on the heater in some way and then you still have to buy a new heater.
If you can verify that all other parts are good, then it might be worthwhile.
If you replace the heat exchanger and you find that you need to replace the blower (About $700.00) and then the circuit board (About $460.00) etc. you have to decide to continue to spend time and money or give up abandon the old heater and buy new, which means that you lose all time and money spent on the old heater.
So, maybe you spend $1,300.00 and then $700.00 and then $460.00 before you finally give up and you lose $2,460.00 plus about 10 to 20 hours dealing with working on the heater in some way and then you still have to buy a new heater.