Twenty years with this pool and still depending on pool store. I want to change that.
- Thread starter cbodie
- Start date
HI,
Yes there are borates, the pool store reading several weeks ago was 33, haven't had them measured since and I don't have a test to measure them. The rest of the results are with my new kit. I thought the TA should be between 100 to 120 and mine is at 90. That's why I was adding the baking soda. I added about 1 lb. yesterday afternoon and started the heater, so the pool is at 87F air temp about 65. Raypac heater woke up with an error message Service HL2. NO idea yet what that means.
Yes there are borates, the pool store reading several weeks ago was 33, haven't had them measured since and I don't have a test to measure them. The rest of the results are with my new kit. I thought the TA should be between 100 to 120 and mine is at 90. That's why I was adding the baking soda. I added about 1 lb. yesterday afternoon and started the heater, so the pool is at 87F air temp about 65. Raypac heater woke up with an error message Service HL2. NO idea yet what that means.
Just tested the TA after adding aprox 1 lb. baking soda last night
TA: 110
PH: 7.5
CH-BR: nice yellow I'd say just a hair over 10, so pretty close to my drop test from yesterday
Backwashed, but didn't need to and the error code reset (HL2) Pool is super clear read that maybe an issue with soot in heat exchanger? Need to find out how to clean that. Other possible causes a unitherm Governor? or by pass assemble, High Pressure switch?? any ideas?
Thank you
TA: 110
PH: 7.5
CH-BR: nice yellow I'd say just a hair over 10, so pretty close to my drop test from yesterday
Backwashed, but didn't need to and the error code reset (HL2) Pool is super clear read that maybe an issue with soot in heat exchanger? Need to find out how to clean that. Other possible causes a unitherm Governor? or by pass assemble, High Pressure switch?? any ideas?
Thank you
HL2 is a high limit switch, I get that once in a while when first starting up my Raypac heater, it usually clears itself.
We have revised the TA recommendations to 70-90. Higher TA, 90+, can lead to PH rise. If you find your PH rising regularly lowering your PH with muriatic acid will also lower your TA over time. It is fine to let your TA drop to 70 or even 60 as long as your PH remains stable.
More here, Pool School - Recommended Levels
The OTO chlorine test, yellow indicator, measures chlorine or bromine. Depending on which sanitizer you are using. The bromine scale is double the chlorine scale. So, if testing chlorine then max is 5, bromine max is 10.
Nice work learning how to maintain your pool!
More here, Pool School - Recommended Levels
The OTO chlorine test, yellow indicator, measures chlorine or bromine. Depending on which sanitizer you are using. The bromine scale is double the chlorine scale. So, if testing chlorine then max is 5, bromine max is 10.
Nice work learning how to maintain your pool!
It's odd but I have not had to add hardly anything to the pool since I opened March 28, except for the 1lb of baking soda I put in yesterday. I have also revised my notebook to make note of 70 to 90. Thank you for the OTO chlorine test clarification, I had no idea! The PH I'm still going on judging that the color looks good comparing it to the given one. I will probably have to get some refills for my kit halfway thru the Summer, but that's OK I like testing it and it gives me a better idea of some of the subtle changes. Odd as it may seem we swam today and the water had absolutely no odor and no taste, and I know that the chemicals are right, I swear that hasn't happen in years. Thank you all!!!
I was going to say there isn't usually a lot of adjustment needed this early in the season because the water is cold. But, you are swimming! So, you are polar bears or you are heating your pool. :-D
Once the swim season kicks off and it gets hot there will be more evaporation, splash out and swimmer load so the numbers move around a little more.
Yes, TFPC water is amazing, people have no idea how good it really is until you get there yourself. You can see the sparkly water and the crystal clear pics of the bottom drain or cleaner. But, until you dive into it you have no idea!
Congrats!
CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!
Once the swim season kicks off and it gets hot there will be more evaporation, splash out and swimmer load so the numbers move around a little more.
Yes, TFPC water is amazing, people have no idea how good it really is until you get there yourself. You can see the sparkly water and the crystal clear pics of the bottom drain or cleaner. But, until you dive into it you have no idea!
Congrats! CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!
I will probably have to get some refills for my kit halfway thru the Summer, but that's OK I like testing it and it gives me a better idea of some of the subtle changes. Odd as it may seem we swam today and the water had absolutely no odor and no taste, and I know that the chemicals are right, I swear that hasn't happen in years. Thank you all!!!
This makes me smile...I too recently found this site (last June after acquiring a pool when we moved) and I was, and still am, amazed at how easy it is to keep your water crystal clear without having to rely on someone else to do it for you. Congrats on taking ownership and handling it like a boss!
No polar bears here. I promise!! Heater going, but luckily the days have been beautiful and sunny in the 70's. Got to get the most use as possible. Just did a full test
CL-BR 2-4
PH 7.5
Ch. Drp Test
CL-BR 2-4
PH 7.5
Ch. Drp Test
Sorry hit the wrong key. No polar bears here. I promise!! Heater going, but luckily the days have been beautiful and sunny in the 70's. Got to get the most use as possible. Just did a full test
CL-BR 2-4
PH 7.5
Ch. Drp Test 3
CC 0
CH 325
TA 100
CYA 40
The water looks super clear and sparkling. Have not entered the numbers in the pool calculator yet. I guess it's no surprise that the chlorine has dropped?
CL-BR 2-4
PH 7.5
Ch. Drp Test 3
CC 0
CH 325
TA 100
CYA 40
The water looks super clear and sparkling. Have not entered the numbers in the pool calculator yet. I guess it's no surprise that the chlorine has dropped?
Looks good. No surprise at all, chlorine drops every day. No need to report BR, bromine, unless you are adding it to your pool, which I am sure you are not.
I want to thank all of you for your support. I am now more than halfway through May and I think I am managing the chemistry in the pool better than I ever have. My greatest surprise, using all your suggestions plus testing etc, came today.The weather here in Maryland has been terrible with rain and cool temps, some high winds etc. Not nice!! I have also been ultra busy and somewhat have ignored the pool for 3 weeks. Today I did all my testing and I was scared that the water would have gone south, but here is what I found.
CL/BR .5/1
Chlorine drop test .5
CC .5
CH 250
TA 110
CYA 50
I added 68 oz. of chlorine, will add a little more later in the day. Trouble Free Pools Thank you!!!!
CL/BR .5/1
Chlorine drop test .5
CC .5
CH 250
TA 110
CYA 50
I added 68 oz. of chlorine, will add a little more later in the day. Trouble Free Pools Thank you!!!!
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
It sure is satisfying having a clean and sparkling pool. Great to hear. Glad to hear you're adding to your FC. Sounds like you're aiming for 4+ which is good.
Everyone here tries to represent the results the same way, so you can write your numbers like this:
FC 0.5
CC 0.5
FC stands for free chlorine, the first test
CC stands for combined chlorine, the second test on the same sample
- both tests are chlorine drop tests
i.e. delete CL/BR stuff and Chlor. drop test. The BR is short for bromine, which isn't in use. The kit manufacturer just puts both on the sample tube.
Sounds like you're operating your pool very effectively!!!
Everyone here tries to represent the results the same way, so you can write your numbers like this:
FC 0.5
CC 0.5
FC stands for free chlorine, the first test
CC stands for combined chlorine, the second test on the same sample
- both tests are chlorine drop tests
i.e. delete CL/BR stuff and Chlor. drop test. The BR is short for bromine, which isn't in use. The kit manufacturer just puts both on the sample tube.
Sounds like you're operating your pool very effectively!!!
You made my heart smile! This was awesome to read!
If you would like to you can become a supporting member. You will get a discount on the tests, more picture storage space for pictures to show off your pretty pool and help us keep the lights on!
CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!
Thanks for the awesome post!
Kim:cat:
If you would like to you can become a supporting member. You will get a discount on the tests, more picture storage space for pictures to show off your pretty pool and help us keep the lights on!
CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!
Thanks for the awesome post!
Kim:cat:
Hi,
i was doing well with the pool chemistry till I went away. My husband had to stay in charge of everything and just kept adding pool pucks he found in the shed to keep the chlorine in the pool. After 2 weeks of being away I don't think it's a disaster but the pool math chart is telling me to add just baking soda.
Ph. At 7.5
cl/ br. At almost orange it's so high
chlorine drop test 21
cc. 0
TC. 21
calcium hardness. 375
TA. 80
CYA. 80
should I just add the baking soda? Water super clear, no odor. I'd be great full for a suggestion before I just add stuff
thank you
i was doing well with the pool chemistry till I went away. My husband had to stay in charge of everything and just kept adding pool pucks he found in the shed to keep the chlorine in the pool. After 2 weeks of being away I don't think it's a disaster but the pool math chart is telling me to add just baking soda.
Ph. At 7.5
cl/ br. At almost orange it's so high
chlorine drop test 21
cc. 0
TC. 21
calcium hardness. 375
TA. 80
CYA. 80
should I just add the baking soda? Water super clear, no odor. I'd be great full for a suggestion before I just add stuff
thank you
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
It looks like you're in OK shape, that's great. Could you clarify the FC:
Is the FC 10.5? (it would be if you're saying 21 drops and you used the 10 ml sample)
Is your FC 21 ppm? (it would be if you used the 10 ml sample and it took 42 drops)
FC ?
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 375
CYA 80
I'm not seeing a need for baking soda. Once you clarify FC level, then we'll know next steps. From the sounds of the OTO test (the one that turned orange) it's high enough for the new and higher level of CYA that came from the pucks. Once your drop test method is known, that's the only number we'll need. You can use the OTO for daily approximate FC checks, but it doesn't tell us much. It would be a good idea to stop any further use of pucks this season because you're around the upper limit for CYA now.
Good to hear that the water is in good shape
Is the FC 10.5? (it would be if you're saying 21 drops and you used the 10 ml sample)
Is your FC 21 ppm? (it would be if you used the 10 ml sample and it took 42 drops)
FC ?
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 375
CYA 80
I'm not seeing a need for baking soda. Once you clarify FC level, then we'll know next steps. From the sounds of the OTO test (the one that turned orange) it's high enough for the new and higher level of CYA that came from the pucks. Once your drop test method is known, that's the only number we'll need. You can use the OTO for daily approximate FC checks, but it doesn't tell us much. It would be a good idea to stop any further use of pucks this season because you're around the upper limit for CYA now.
Good to hear that the water is in good shape
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
OK, thanks, and was that the bottom line on the tube - the 10 ml line? Also, here's how numbers are reported:
FC 21
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 375
CYA 80
The pH test is not valid above 10 ppm FC, so don't worry about testing until the FC comes down. Your FC target is now 9 ppm with a bare minimum of 6 for your new CYA level of 80 ppm.
You might need to bring the pH up a little at that time, but we can wait and see.
FC 21
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 375
CYA 80
The pH test is not valid above 10 ppm FC, so don't worry about testing until the FC comes down. Your FC target is now 9 ppm with a bare minimum of 6 for your new CYA level of 80 ppm.
You might need to bring the pH up a little at that time, but we can wait and see.
So basically just let it be for a couple of days and retest? I removed the last few bits of chlorine pucks left in the floater. Thank you soooo much!
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Yes, I'm not hearing anything about cloudy water, so all you need to do is watch the FC and then check pH when you get down to FC 10.
Enjoy the swimming!
Enjoy the swimming!