Trying to raise pH
- Thread starter elainerader
- Start date
I thought I remember reading a post saying if you use trichlor you will need to keep raising pH and TA.
This isn't the post I was referring to, but it does mention trichlor lowering TA: why-not-use-trichlor-tablets-if-cya-is-low-t40879.html#p333099
This isn't the post I was referring to, but it does mention trichlor lowering TA: why-not-use-trichlor-tablets-if-cya-is-low-t40879.html#p333099
90 is very high. Shocking your pool will be a pain with CYA that high. I would highly recommend draining 1/3 of that water and replacing with new CYA free (tap) water.
John, now we are both confused I think. Pool calc says otherwise, and my anecdotal evidence says otherwise. Last year I used Trichlor to get CYA in the brand new water, and the TA stayed solid while the pH dropped.
John, now we are both confused I think. Pool calc says otherwise, and my anecdotal evidence says otherwise. Last year I used Trichlor to get CYA in the brand new water, and the TA stayed solid while the pH dropped.
OK.......I need some more feedback before I start shocking.......I'm getting the pH really close & I was hoping to start shocking tomorrow.
Is dumping water and refilling the only option??
Is dumping water and refilling the only option??
Where's chem geek when you need him? He would have an answer for this. I know I used trichlor to increase CYA last year, but I don't remember what effect (if any) it had on TA.
To lower CYA, yes, draining and refilling is the only option. To get from 90 to 50 you would need to drain about 45% of your water. This is why a full set of test results is important. We could have told you to replace water before trying to adjust TA and pH.elainerader said:
Actually, trichlor does lower TA, though it does so fairly slowly. Trichlor is acidic, and any acid will lower both PH and TA. The Pool Calculator doesn't list it because the effect is small and trichlor already had four other effects so there wasn't room to add in a fifth.Vette said:
John, I did post results but in a different thread.....but the results I posted were not correct as I now look back at them...... I did the right test but posted the wrong results 
So......I guess i have to start over. I'll keep you posted
Thanks again for everyones help.
So......I guess i have to start over. I'll keep you posted
Thanks again for everyones help.
Ok, I just looked at your other post.
This means, as you already know, TA was 0.
Did you add any powdered shock or chlorine tablets after this test?
I still had chlorine tabs in my auto feeder. They are now all gone.
Re tested my TA the levels are 70
Re tested my TA the levels are 70
different question.....trying to drain the pool by 1/3. It just drained past the skimmers and won't drain anymore. Is syphoning the only way to drain it down further?
Unless you have a bottom drain and a valve that will isolate it from the skimmers, siphoning is the only way.
If you have any hoses with a pretty wide diameter, you can use those to quickly siphon water out. I use my 1.5" flex pipe from my plumbing system to drain the pool below the skimmer (although you probably don't have flex pipe in an IG pool)
I do have a bottom drain, I shut off skimmers, turned the filter to drain and the pump un-primed once the water level got below the skimmer.
I have drained before due to excessive rain and never had a problem, but I've never had to drain this low. I tried to re prime with hose but it did not work....doing the hose thing
I have drained before due to excessive rain and never had a problem, but I've never had to drain this low. I tried to re prime with hose but it did not work....doing the hose thing
I'm back!
Dumped nearly 1/2 the pool volume, refilled and ran the filter for2 hours.
Just tested and here are my results:
CYA 75
pH just a tad lighter than 6.8
TA 50
CL 0
Just checking to make sure I don't screw this up again.....I am going to start putting in more Arm & Hammer instead of Borax since my TA levels are still low until pH reaches 7.2 - 7.8
Correct??
Dumped nearly 1/2 the pool volume, refilled and ran the filter for2 hours.
Just tested and here are my results:
CYA 75
pH just a tad lighter than 6.8
TA 50
CL 0
Just checking to make sure I don't screw this up again.....I am going to start putting in more Arm & Hammer instead of Borax since my TA levels are still low until pH reaches 7.2 - 7.8
Correct??
New thread for Trying to get pH up
Merged by moderator. Please keep your questions together. Thanks, jblizzle
Hello again,
I have been posting about raising my pH in order to shock and found out my CYA levels were way too high. I was advised to dump 45% of my water, which I did. The pool is now re-filled, the pH is between 7.2 & 7.5 and I am ready to shock.
My current tests:
FC 0
CYA 80
I used the Pool Calculator to determine the bleach needed to raise my FC to 31
I am a little confused as to the shock process per the instructions.
My question is: do I add all the recommended chlorine at one time? If so how fast/slow and I assume at the deep end in front of a jet?
And I'm not sure what to expect. I think I am understanding that it will it get to shock level then as it drops over night I keep adjusting it again the next day and on, until the loss of 1.0 ppm or less each day is achieved?
Thanks again for all the support!!
Merged by moderator. Please keep your questions together. Thanks, jblizzle
Hello again,
I have been posting about raising my pH in order to shock and found out my CYA levels were way too high. I was advised to dump 45% of my water, which I did. The pool is now re-filled, the pH is between 7.2 & 7.5 and I am ready to shock.
My current tests:
FC 0
CYA 80
I used the Pool Calculator to determine the bleach needed to raise my FC to 31
I am a little confused as to the shock process per the instructions.
My question is: do I add all the recommended chlorine at one time? If so how fast/slow and I assume at the deep end in front of a jet?
And I'm not sure what to expect. I think I am understanding that it will it get to shock level then as it drops over night I keep adjusting it again the next day and on, until the loss of 1.0 ppm or less each day is achieved?
Thanks again for all the support!!
Are you sure you do not want to replace 40-50% of the water again to get the CYA down to the recommended levels before starting the shock process?
Add all the bleach by pouring slowly in front of a return jet in the deep end. You should then try to test every few hours and readjust the FC back up to the shock valve. The OCLT is done toward the end when the CC are low and the water is clear to verify that you are done.
Add all the bleach by pouring slowly in front of a return jet in the deep end. You should then try to test every few hours and readjust the FC back up to the shock valve. The OCLT is done toward the end when the CC are low and the water is clear to verify that you are done.
In the test kit instructions it indicates a CYA "range of 30- 80 seems to be right for most pools". I have VERY high levels of sunlight (very far south in Mississippi) from sunrise to sunset.....barely a shadow falls on the south wall early in the morning. I thought that made a difference in the acceptable CYA levels? In the "ABC's of Pool Chemistry" it is indicated that "very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept betwn 70 and 80.
I really don't want to dump more water. Our water here is very expensive and living in a city they charge a sewer fee on top of the $$ to re-fill.
I really don't want to dump more water. Our water here is very expensive and living in a city they charge a sewer fee on top of the $$ to re-fill.