Trying to maintain the pool in good shape and make any adjustments

tk3000

Active member
May 14, 2024
35
Fort Wayne, IN
Hello Folks,

Recently, after a long battle with all the dirty and contaminants and some learning curve (thanks for all the help!), I was able to bring my pool to life.

Previous to supercholorinating the pool water for the last time (went overboard with hypochlorite, using 24 gallons overall). I went overboard in part because the CYA level was rather high (between 70 to 80ppm). After the last application of 12 gallons (not all at once), I may have added a 3 extra gallons in the span of a week or so even though the chlorine level was always high (above 10ppm, given that the taylor test kit and other means do not show how much higher it is above 10ppm).

After a week without adding anything, whenever I checked the pool, the free chlorine level was always above 10ppm everyday. I imagine that if the free chlorine level prevailed at such high level for so long, it got the job done (but, I am just guessing). It seems that the only way to know the amount of combine chlorine is to let the total chlorine level to get much lower – what I am doing right now (it is hovering around 5ppm). The water has been consistent clear and clean. What would be the likelihood of needing to add more chlorine (not the normal dose of chlorine (one gallon, maybe) one has to add every week; but a higher dose?

On another issue, I plan on cover the pool to minimize the potential for the water to get worse over time (given that sometime I will absent for a 10 days or so). I bought a winter cover since that was the easier option. But, the winter cover typically is not flush with the pool deck but rescind into the pool a bit. Would it be a good idea to use that pool cover in those circumstances?

Pic depicts the situation regarding the cover:

POOL_RECOVERED_FINALIZING.jpg
 
I had a little trouble following what your questions were, but a couple of thoughts:
1) FC addition is normally a daily thing. Your pool will consume 3-4ppm, per day, of FC. You have to replace what is lost to sanitation or UV destruction.
2) FAS-DPD Chlorine Test is what you need for accurate testing, part of the test kits recommended that @Donldson linked to... You need this kit to have any success at pool ownership.
3) Necessary FC levels are predicated on the amount of CYA in the pool. Too much CYA and you will struggle to have enough FC, too little CYA and your FC will be destroyed by UV from the sun. Again, why you need a kit, is to test this CYA level. FC/CYA Levels


Test Kits Compared
Pool Care Basics
 
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Do you have the fas/dpd (powder) test ? If not you need to order a k-1515. Then you will get an actual value with no limits instead of the vague color match.
 
I had a little trouble following what your questions were, but a couple of thoughts:
1) FC addition is normally a daily thing. Your pool will consume 3-4ppm, per day, of FC. You have to replace what is lost to sanitation or UV destruction.
2) FAS-DPD Chlorine Test is what you need for accurate testing, part of the test kits recommended that @Donldson linked to... You need this kit to have any success at pool ownership.
3) Necessary FC levels are predicated on the amount of CYA in the pool. Too much CYA and you will struggle to have enough FC, too little CYA and your FC will be destroyed by UV from the sun. Again, why you need a kit, is to test this CYA level. FC/CYA Levels


Test Kits Compared
Pool Care Basics

I have a few test kits (including a fas-dpd taylor kit), electronic probes (for pH and other type of tests). I don´t use the pool and there is nobody using the pool, no much in terms of contaminants, etc. The pool was dark green with algae bloom and all sort of nasty stuff in the bottom of the pool. Now it is crystal clear.

The following are the measurements (as of 14th of July):
Alk => 160ppm (kind of high)
CYA => between 30 and 40.
Free Chlorine => above 5ppm
Comb Chlorine => above 5ppm
pH => 7.5
 
Do you have the fas/dpd (powder) test ? If not you need to order a k-1515. Then you will get an actual value with no limits instead of the vague color match.

I have the Taylor K-1005 DPD. It got lots of use when I was in the process of recovering the pool (it was really bad). I posted the values in my last post.

The Taylor Kit also provides color matches, albeit there are gradients of color which certainly helps. The only thing that provides me with number are the electronic probes (unfortunately they don´t measure many things yet).


 

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