Trying to get started with TFP method

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Got to test in the afternoon today too curious about the FC loss over a few hours. So at 8:00 Am this morning it was 3.5, added liquid chlorine to target of 7 which was 3 quarts of 10% liquid chlorine. 2:00 PM FC was 5 I just added the other quart.

I have read about the SLAM and it doesn’t seem necessary now with a CC that low and during the SLAM you won’t be able to swim for a few days right?
 
CC being low is not a sign you do not need to SLAM. OCLT is the best but if you have cloudy water, that goes above all of them.

You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
 
Mintypool! Congrats on taking control of your pool and doing things yourself (and the right way)! I found TFP this year after trying to manage my pool with old, outdated, pool store suggested methods last year. What a difference. My pool and my pool water is so much better off for it. LC is the best way to sanitize a pool, and with the right level of CYA (or close to it like you) it truly makes maintaining your pool trouble free.

How is your pH after a few days?
 
CarolineM said:
Use these instead of skimmer socks, cheaper and disposable and they work

Amazon.com: VersaPro 210 21" Disposable Hair Net, Spun-Bonded Polypropylene, White (Pack of 100): Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: VersaPro 210 21" Disposable Hair Net, Spun-Bonded Polypropylene, White (Pack of 100): Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
I was just looking at the reviews for these ... apparently no one actually uses these on their heads ... all the reviews are POOL OWNERS!!! :laughblue:
 
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FC 3.5
CC 0.5
PH 7.6
CYA 40
CH 375
TA 80
So been adding bleach everyday to maintain FC levels everything else seems to be staying good. Vacuumed last night and no sediment this morning. Water is crystal clear no cloudiness I would even say “minty”. Just looking for some confirmation is adding a gallon of bleach per day seem right? It seems like if I target FC 7 it loses about 3.5-4 ppm FC over 24 hours. Also is there anything to prevent that much FC loss?
 
That is normal for this time of year. FC loss will start to reduce in the coming weeks.

Thank you for sharing your Poolmath test logs. If you enter and save your tests in Poolmath it is easier to recognize trends and utilize the data for guidance.
 
I put a quart of 12.5% or so in daily. Sometimes two. And my pool has a lot of trees around it to block direct sun quite often.
 

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Been reading alot of the articles and other forum posts and have a few follow up questions.
1) With my CYA being 35 but rounded up to 40. Would raising the CYA to 40 or even 50 have any effect on the amount of FC lost which is still between 3-4 in 24 hours? If it does reduce the amount of loss, but at 40-50 CYA you have to add more liquid chlorine to change the FC to your target does it all just come out the same?I guess my question is that understand the target CYA is 30-50 but is the optimal CYA closer to 30 or 50?
2) being that I am losing FC in that range sometimes I am getting FC of 3 in the morning this time of year is it better to target 8-8.5 FC if I am adding in the morning so that my FC doesn’t drop below 4?
3) my pool timer stopped working last year and I have been turning on and off the filter manually. The pool store had me running the filter for 8 hours but that was with the in line chlorinator with pucks which I am no longer using and have turned off! I was reading that starting with a run time of 4 hours is adequate? Also my pool time is an intermatic T104R, I saw Home Depot had it, is this a DYI job or better for an electrician? I also was reading about robot cleaners for the pool and may invest in one soon and it seems like they have their own timer. This is independent from the filter time right and the filter would still be running 4 hours separate from the robot cleaner?
 
1. You may see a small change in FC loss with a CYA level of 50.
2. Higher FC levels are better than too low.
3. The 4 hours may be plenty. Depends on your skimming needs.
4. I believe you can replace just the internals of the timer. Let's ask @ajw22
Robots work independent of the pool pump and filter.

I see you are not entering your test results into Poolmath. It is a great place to record the data and thus allow your self and us see trends, potential issues, etc.
 
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Mintypool said:
Been reading alot of the articles and other forum posts and have a few follow up questions.
1) With my CYA being 35 but rounded up to 40. Would raising the CYA to 40 or even 50 have any effect on the amount of FC lost which is still between 3-4 in 24 hours? If it does reduce the amount of loss, but at 40-50 CYA you have to add more liquid chlorine to change the FC to your target does it all just come out the same?I guess my question is that understand the target CYA is 30-50 but is the optimal CYA closer to 30 or 50?
2) being that I am losing FC in that range sometimes I am getting FC of 3 in the morning this time of year is it better to target 8-8.5 FC if I am adding in the morning so that my FC doesn’t drop below 4?
3) my pool timer stopped working last year and I have been turning on and off the filter manually. The pool store had me running the filter for 8 hours but that was with the in line chlorinator with pucks which I am no longer using and have turned off! I was reading that starting with a run time of 4 hours is adequate? Also my pool time is an intermatic T104R, I saw Home Depot had it, is this a DYI job or better for an electrician? I also was reading about robot cleaners for the pool and may invest in one soon and it seems like they have their own timer. This is independent from the filter time right and the filter would still be running 4 hours separate from the robot cleaner?
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1) 30 is the ideal CYA. I've seen effectiveness charts and after 30 the effectiveness of CYA at stabilizing FC levels, levels off. Also, the higher your CYA the less effective your chlorine so you will have to add more LC to maintain a sanitized pool.

2) Follow Poolmath. Test the same time every day, and then add the amount of LC necessary to maintain your target FC for you CYA level. Poolmath really takes the questions out of it maintenance of FC.

3) All pools are different, so run it how you need to. I run my ~6 hours a day. From 12am to 6am. I want to get another set of start and stop pegs so I can run it from 2-5am, and then again midday. I would highly suggest hiring an electrician unless you are comfortable with wiring. Make sure to kill the power to your pool pad, not just the breaker at the pad. If you have any doubts, hire it out. Most pool pads are 240V, which is not something to be messed with. And yes, the pump should run independent of the robot cleaner, though I recommend not running the pump while the robot is cleaning so that particles can settle to the bottom.
 
Post a pic of the internals of your T104 timer with the lower plastic guard removed.

I want to see if you have the heater firemans switch connected to it and if you have any complex wiring.
 
LoneWolfArcher said:
1) 30 is the ideal CYA. I've seen effectiveness charts and after 30 the effectiveness of CYA at stabilizing FC levels, levels off. Also, the higher your CYA the less effective your chlorine so you will have to add more LC to maintain a sanitized pool.

2) Follow Poolmath. Test the same time every day, and then add the amount of LC necessary to maintain your target FC for you CYA level. Poolmath really takes the questions out of it maintenance of FC.

3) All pools are different, so run it how you need to. I run my ~6 hours a day. From 12am to 6am. I want to get another set of start and stop pegs so I can run it from 2-5am, and then again midday. I would highly suggest hiring an electrician unless you are comfortable with wiring. Make sure to kill the power to your pool pad, not just the breaker at the pad. If you have any doubts, hire it out. Most pool pads are 240V, which is not something to be messed with. And yes, the pump should run independent of the robot cleaner, though I recommend not running the pump while the robot is cleaning so that particles can settle to the bottom.
Click to expand...
When do you test and add LC in morning or at night? Also If you are running filter in the middle of the night do you just run for a half hour to circulate when you do add them?

I just wanted to see if replacing timer was something easier than first install but I have no experience with wiring so I am going to hire an electrician for the timer. I have read some of the forums in the robot cleaners and it looks like Dolphin S200 is highly recommended and would be a good one for me but when I look on amazon it shows the dolphin Nautilus CC and dolphin nautilus CC plus.
 
You cannot purchase a S200 over the internet. Regular store or phone orders only.

Many of us use Marina Pool Spa in Denver to order Dolphin robots over the phone.
 
Mintypool said:
When do you test and add LC in morning or at night? Also If you are running filter in the middle of the night do you just run for a half hour to circulate when you do add them?
Click to expand...

I test late evening. I and LC based on my tests. I try to aim for the highest FC target of my range. I have high CYA which is why I came here, so I add LC to get to 15 FC. Yes I run my pump for a while to get the LC mixed in. That will usually hold over night, all the next day. But due to cool nights here my water temp has been hovering around 78-82 degrees. Higher temps typically see a higher drop in FC. My minimum FC is now 8 (CYA 110) so I work to keep it above that at all times.

As you get used to the TFP methods this will become easier. But rely on Pool Math.
 
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