Tryin' to get wet...

mynewpool said:
TFP_wanna_be said:
SOLD - I'll call them right now... Ship for one price and I'll do it...

Update: My shipping from NC to FL was the same single cost when purchased on a combined order - they had my order up and modified in minutes.... I'm off the store to get a lab-coat and goggles!!!

Glad it worked out for you. I am in texas and usually get my stuff in 2-3 days. Being so close hopefully you can get it by the weekend.


Me too, but if not, it least I can rest my worries about being lost & alone... As you can see from this picture I have lots of stuff to keep me busy.... Just snapped this: Today I can see the 'light', no really "i can see the light" in the deep end. The pool is painted with light blue 2-part epoxy - it lasted for 3 yrs with poor chem treatments, now it has failed and flaking, but I'm trying to get my 'balance and bearings' before i step toward a resurface. IMO, since its so old, I'd like to put a liner in it... May be we'll worry about that in a few months...


BTW: Pool had a CareTaker system that I disconected in favor of the Polaris. The CT never did much anyway....
 
TFP_wanna_be said:
[quote="TFP_wanna_be":10kj5fwn]My pool is in direct FL sun... added 10gals of chlor at 6pm & clean DE filter grids
5 hrs later...
Harness: 200 (same)
TC: 5 (up from zero)
FC: 10 (up from zero)
pH: 6.2 (down from 7)
Alk: 80 (down from 100)
CYA: 0 (down from 80) from what I've read, I'm not mixing bones over this reading... I'll hang my hat on a real test kit...

one more thing... The polaris is catching sand, not leaves etc... I hope that means I'm moving passed the hidden leaves eating my chlor...
[/quote:10kj5fwn]
OK, by the numbers:
1. Unless you've had a lot of rain, or added water, or LOTS of splash-out the CYA just doesn't go down. Winter can be a different situation but that's not what we're talking about.
Where did the 80 reading come from and where did the 0 reading come from?

2. The pH wouldn't drop from 7.0 to 6.2 on it's own either.
Did you add either muratic acid or dry acid or pH-Down?

3. The FC=10 and TC=5 can't be right.
TC= CC+FC (total chlorine=combined chloramines {bad stuff} PLUS the FC).
Most test kits, even the cheapie ones will not measure chlorine of over 5ppm (been there)...

4. Are you running the filter 24x7?
If so, watch the pressures.

5. Do you have a main drain, and if so, pull 30-45% of the supply water (from the pool to the pump) from the main drain, the balance through the skimmer.

6. Stay away from "dollar store" bleach.
We've found it to by 3%.. Use only "Ultra" bleach only (6%) but liquid chlorine is better yet!

You will get there but READ EVERYTHING IN POOL SCHOOL ! It's time well spent.

Terry in NC :cool:
 
Hi Terry!

My pump PSI does hit 27-30 in about 2-3hours... I backwash down to 12-15...
-Going to get more DE today...

The test results are the pool store and the cheapie test. I'm not in love with either so I bought a TF100 and hope to have it first of the week. So for now, I'm not looking back on the madness, I'm moving ahead with BBB once I get numbers we can agree on.

Rain? kinda... My I just added 6 inches of well / irrigation water to the pool. I've never tested the well water, but I'm told its safe to consum.
 
TFP_wanna_be said:
Hi Terry!

My pump PSI does hit 27-30 in about 2-3hours... I backwash down to 12-15...
-Going to get more DE today...

The test results are the pool store and the cheapie test. I'm not in love with either so I bought a TF100 and hope to have it first of the week. So for now, I'm not looking back on the madness, I'm moving ahead with BBB once I get numbers we can agree on.

Rain? kinda... My I just added 6 inches of well / irrigation water to the pool. I've never tested the well water, but I'm told its safe to consum.

If you are in Florida and I think it comes from North Carolina, I would not be suprised if you get it on Saturday, unless you opted for other than usps shipping. I am in texas and get my stuff in 2-3 days, but usually it is 2 days.
 
Thanks.... They were prompt with a tracking number and its indicates I'll have it on Sat.

10pm Backwashed lastnight & added DE...
7am Backwash & add DE...

Pool looks much better!!! On my cheapie test the TC & FC are almost at the peak - this is great becuase I could not read and chlor for almost 2 weeks... I wont bother with the numbers until I get the TF100. I can smell chlor and see the drain. Its been a long time since we've faced on-another ;-)

Off to work - home for lunch and BW and add more DE
 
So.................... I come home for lunch and my wife says "THE POOL LOOKS GREAT..!!" I said, thanks hun... She said, "No you have to go see it"... The my daughter asked me to take her to see the pool... I grabbed my cell phone & snapped this video as we walked up out to it - my daughter has no memory of this pool its been dirty for sooooo long. I love to make her happy and this pool is for her!!

Cant wait for my test kit and get the chems right for safe and fun swimming!!! :whoot:[

please forgive me - I'm new to video.... We'll have to Copy&Paste for now until I figure this out...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBOc5-6rBTU
 

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Re: Tryin' to get wet... now w/ TF Test kit

I got my kit and went to work... Oh how the pool 'looks' so great today...
FC: 15
CC: 0
PH <6.8 (I'd say like 6.2 if it was on the chart)
TA: 600+ I stop'd at 60 drops... I figured it was so out of range...
CH: 300
CYA: 75

The my chlor is off the charts - 5 drops turns almost orange, not any shade of yellow...

So, there you have it - looks good, but might be deadly ;-)
 
Hopefully your TA test is incorrect. I don't see how it could have changed that much since the pool store. Try the TA test again and this time wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after every five drops. Also, please describe the color it turns when you first add the dye.

I assume you mean your PH is lower than 6.8, not greater. You need to get your PH up to at least 7.0 as soon as possible.

Your other numbers are fine. The FC level will come down on its own in a day or two.
 
JasonLion said:
Hopefully your TA test is incorrect. I don't see how it could have changed that much since the pool store. Try the TA test again and this time wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after every five drops. Also, please describe the color it turns when you first add the dye.

I assume you mean your PH is lower than 6.8, not greater. You need to get your PH up to at least 7.0 as soon as possible.

Your other numbers are fine. The FC level will come down on its own in a day or two.

Thanks for your feedback!

A closer look....

1st, yes, the PH is sub 6.8
Just did the TA again (twice)... As for the water activity... when adding #9, the water goes from Blue to yellow at 5 drops and NEVER gets to a tint red... I stop'd this time at 25. If anything after 5-6 min on the speedy stir the yellow fads to clear..
 
okay... I have about two lbs /32oz of soda ash and then I'm 100% out of chems...

I guess I can add the the other approx 22lbs of soda ash
-or-
Get my hands on about 50lbs of borax...

I'll check prices...

20,000 gal pool going from 6.2-to-7 on the pool calc yields about 50lbs to get started...
 
Don't change the PH that whole way all at once. There are several ways the calculated amount can be wrong. I would add perhaps one quarter of that at a time, give it an hour to mix-in and then test the PH to see how you are doing.
 
AND.... I'm Back...!!!

So, while I was gone the pool dropped even more! Whats crazy is the water is sparklin; clear and in the good ol' days I would be swimming in this pool. Here are my latest stats. I need to take action ASAP - please offer a plan of action. I'm pretty sure I need to get the pH up first.

Cl: still off the charts
pH: still sub 6.8
FC: 20
CC: 2
AL: 50
Cal hard: 150
CYA: 75

I have a liq puck chlorinator drip set on [high] and have had a few inches of rain over the last two days. The water is sparkling clear and light smell of chlorine when I smell it in my hands. Looking forward to keeping it clear and making it safe!!!
THANK YOU!!
 

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