Truclear problems and questions

Drop test. swg off. My thoughts, if it is only putting 5 chlorine how is it supposed to keep it at 6?

If you are trying to get an accurate picture of what you are using, you MUST use the FAS/DPD test. The drop tests are for a balanced pool doing daily sanity checks.
 
It is working, at least part of the time, if you put in chlorine two days ago to raise it to 5 and you are still measuring 5. If the unit switches polarity during a cycle it would be interesting to see if it stops working. It seems like it is working twice as hard as it should be according to your posts.

Double check the CYA level and you might want to bump it up to 80.
 
Doug,

Reading through this post is a little confusing since either I missed the post where you added FC with liquid chlorine or you didn't post 'till after. Can you confirm that your pool return water is the same as your pool water FC while the unit is working? Check it hourly over a 4 hour period since chlorinators go through a "rest" cycle when they run. If you only added liquid chlorine once then it would appear your chlorinator is at least producing some FC. The question is how much, and is it adequate, is something chewing up your chlorine, or is your actual production low indicating you may need to clean? The cycle of run, rest, reverse polarity run is different for different brands but all modern chlorinators do this cycle. If you have an amp display and it's reading "0" you are in a rest period which means it will be normal to test the same FC as the pool and the return. You have to test during the run or reverse run so testing hourly should allow you to catch a production cycle. If you are producing low FC based on your chlorine balance then you may need to clean the cell. We test to be certain before cleaning since you remove a small amount of catalyst from the plates each time you clean. The catalyst layer is very thin so you only get so many tests per cell.

Chris
 
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Salt element has never had any build up. Running at 100%, 1700 rpm, 13 hrs a day. Just added liquid chlorine. To get fc back up. Return water is same as pool fc of 2. Pool was busy yesterday. Slammed it to 25 for week to 10 days couple weeks ago. Passed oclt. went down to fc 6-7 and then just keeps going down.
 

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Doug,

Did you pass all the slam criteria? Either your cell is not producing or you have something "extra" consuming FC. That's the only way to account for this. Did you check return water when the chlorinator was definitely not in a rest phase?

Chris
 
Water test today
FC 10
CC 0.0
ph 7.6
TA 80
CH 330
CYA 90
salt 3800
oclt last night less than 1 pump and swg off for overnight for test.
Pump set for 35 gpm, swg 100% for 13 hrs. 1700 rpm
Took water sample to pool shop ( friends run it I use tfp plan) to verify readings. All almost identical . They said FC was 5 my tests said 10.
 
Water test today
FC 10
CC 0.0
ph 7.6
TA 80
CH 330
CYA 90
salt 3800
oclt last night less than 1 pump and swg off for overnight for test.
Pump set for 35 gpm, swg 100% for 13 hrs. 1700 rpm
Took water sample to pool shop ( friends run it I use tfp plan) to verify readings. All almost identical . They said FC was 5 my tests said 10.

If you don't think your cell is producing any/enough chlorine call either Jandy or your builder.
 
Doug,

The TF 100 FC test is what I'd believe. It's extremely reliable and not easy to mess up. If you have the Jandy True Clear salt system in 13 hours at 100% you should produce 5.7 ppm. What was the FC before you started the salt system and what time did you do this? Have you added liquid chlorine also, if so when and how much?

Chris
 
Guys
oclt last night was 0. pump and swg off all night. Fc still at 10. I feel what I may be seeing is salt reading errors. MAYBE ! Aquachek strips and store read the same. But earlier someone said that could be off by 500 ppm. Pool comp said not to have it above 3200. So I could have been at 2800?
 
I've used the aquachek strips for salt and never ran into a problem. Checked with pool store and other tests ( never the same answer )Everyone says not to go over a certain point but with some tests how do you know where you you are? What do you guys use as an accurate salt test that you believe is accurate?
 
K-1766, aquacheck 561140A & TRUCLEAR reading in iAquaLink for sanity. So far the K-1766 has matched the TRUCLEAR reading, and the salt strips have been higher.
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Im a little late to this party, but I have the Truclear also. When I first learned about figuring my SWG output, Allen gave me a good equation to use. If this SWG is run at 100% for 24 hours, it generates 12 ppm. So Ive been using my test kit, and with testing frequently, Ive gotten to where I can run mine at 12 hours per day at 50%. (12 ppm x .5 day x .5 percentage of SWG) gives me 3 ppm per day, which has me up to about 9 ppm. I have it turned to 40% now, since its been rainy and drizzly for several days. But Ive never had to even think of adding chlorine.
 

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