I have a large area with discoloration and it is only on the shallow end 5ft and less. It doesn't come up with brushing so I tried putting a puck in, left it for 30 min and nothing, got in and scrapped it on the bottom and it didn't streak. Some kids were able to scrape their initials on the bottom so I tried the puck again left it over night. Next morning there was a circle, I know I left it to long but, does this mean its organic because I tried putting absorbic acid in a sock and scrubbing and it didn't seem to work. Would the puck do that if it was metals if left long enough?
Trouble with Stains
- Thread starter jland47
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,913
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Based on what you tried, I'm leaning more towards organic. Sounds like the staining is really embedded though. Is this an old pool/plaster? Are you able to share some water test results with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? Maybe we'll see something to help.
A few days of readings but these stains have been here for a while. Old pool replastered 4 years ago. Tried rubbing the puck too, nothing. I had to add some calcium because levels were staying low.
I did have to slam at the beginning of the summer I think stains were already there
8/10
Fc3.6
Cc.4
Ph7.4
Ta 90-100
Ca200
Cya60
5gal
.5gal
8/13
Fc4.4
Cc.2
Ph7.4
Ta90
Cc270
Cya50
8/15
Fc4.8
Cc0
Ph7.5
Ta80
Cc270
I did have to slam at the beginning of the summer I think stains were already there
8/10
Fc3.6
Cc.4
Ph7.4
Ta 90-100
Ca200
Cya60
5gal
.5gal
8/13
Fc4.4
Cc.2
Ph7.4
Ta90
Cc270
Cya50
8/15
Fc4.8
Cc0
Ph7.5
Ta80
Cc270
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes stable, isnt that a little low? Shouldn't it be between 80-120, oh thats what I always went by but I see TFP recommends 70-90.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
TA of 50 ppm or higher is fine. I assume your CC of 270 is CH.
See Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool
See Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If a trichlor puck did not remove them, did it change the color at all? From the pictures, looks like copper.
It changed the color but only after I left it over night. You can see the change in the second picture mid left bottom, It is a ring the middle of the ring looks like its still stained but there is a clear clean circle where the puck sat.
Looks like copper and scale.
Jack's #2 might work for you, but it will lock up the fc for weeks.
Jack's #2 might work for you, but it will lock up the fc for weeks.
So I should wait until the winter when I do not need the FC? Do I really need all this extra stuff too?
Also Required: 1/2 gallon muriatic acid or 1 lb pH decreaser, per 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Also Required: 12 ounces of Jack's Magic Blue Stuff, per 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Suggested: Jack's Magic Stain ID Kit, to verify treatment with the Copper Stuff, or Stain Solution #2.
Suggested: Jack's Magic Filter Fiber Stuff, to improve filtration during the stain removal process.
Also Required: 1/2 gallon muriatic acid or 1 lb pH decreaser, per 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Also Required: 12 ounces of Jack's Magic Blue Stuff, per 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Suggested: Jack's Magic Stain ID Kit, to verify treatment with the Copper Stuff, or Stain Solution #2.
Suggested: Jack's Magic Filter Fiber Stuff, to improve filtration during the stain removal process.
calinb
0
The problem with winter treatment (or even early fall around here) is the Jack's #2 treatment instructions say 65F minimum water temperature!