We just bought a house with a 20x40 inground pool. This is our first pool. I am very confused on what is happening with my stabilizer. When we first opened, I added approx. 13 lbs of glandular stabilizer using the sock method. After much research, found we had a major problem with mustard algae. Once we figured that out, we took steps to get the problem taken care of. When I went to the pool store last week, I was told that I had no stabilizer, even though my test kit (TF-100) said otherwise. I ended up at another store a day or so later, and they said the same, no stabilizer. I ended up putting in bags of shock with stabilizer in fear of having the algae get out of control. The pool is blue and clear and looks great now. I had to go to the pool store to get supplies today, and took a water sample in just to see what their test would say. Once again, It says no stabilizer! My test kit is telling me I have 50 ppm. Exactly where it needs to be. I am not sure if I should add a stabilizer or trust my kit? How is the pool store getting a completely different reading? Any help is appreciated!
Trouble with Stabilizer
- Thread starter sedwards368
- Start date
If you are performing the tests as the card instructs to the letter, trust your kit over the pool store analysis.
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
If you are doing the dot test I'd trust your results. How are you testing?
Pool store testing is not very reliable. That's why TFP calls for a real test kit to know your water chemistry.
Pool store testing is not very reliable. That's why TFP calls for a real test kit to know your water chemistry.
Trust your kit! Do you know how the pool store was measuring? I just took my water in too to PaP and they told me 110PPM when my kit says 60PPM.
Okay. So I did an overnight chlorine test to make sure we don't still have an algae problem. I tested after sunset last night and this morning at 6am. I only had a .5 ppm lose so that rules that out. I am starting to think the pool store is right. I was at FC of 3 and no CC this morning at 6. At 9, I used the OTO test and it was darker than a 5. I added 3/4 of a gallon of chlorine, going off the FC from the 6am test and pool math app. When I checked it again at 2, I had no chlorine. It doesn't seem like I should be going through that much chlorine. I redid the stabilizer test using the drop test out of the FT-100 kit. I reread the directions and followed them to the "T". Still says 50ppm. I am at a lose of what I am doing wrong? And Where all my stabilizer went?
I’d stop using the OTO test and just use the FAS-DPD. OTO test is only good for determining if there is any chlorine at all in the pool.
an1vrsy
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 10, 2018
- 1,240
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The pool $tore reading will result in them selling you more stabilizer. Trust your kit.
jtpipkin
Bronze Supporter
Logically - if you know what you've added (CYA), how can a zero (pool store) test be accurate? Short answer, it can't be.
I don't even use the OTO test.. just the FC test.
Right! That is exactly my thoughts. But it doesn't explain why I am going through so much chlorine. I shouldn't be putting in 2 gallons of chlorine a day to keep my levels up.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,774
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would do one more OCLT to verify your previous findings. Using the FAS-DPD test.
Approx. 33,000 gallons. Size, 20x40. 3 foot shallow end, 8 foot deep end.
How old are your TF100 test reagents and how are they stored?
I remember after my 2nd year of TFP, the R-0870 powder got real hard and hardly any Chlorine would show up.
I remember after my 2nd year of TFP, the R-0870 powder got real hard and hardly any Chlorine would show up.
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
This. OTO shows FC and CC together. You need to see what the FC is doing.
I just it bought this year. But that crossed my mind. Maybe I got a bad batch or something