Trouble keeping pH stabilized below 7.8

[rwmcmahon]

I am adding muriatic acid (31.45%) multiple times a week (typically 20 oz increments) and a little concerns something is not in balance. I am considering raising my TA to 80-90 ppm but wanted to floor this to the group before I do since poolmath calculator likes it at 70 ppm.

Below is a representation of my recent chemistry (I use Taylor chemicals):
FC - 3.5 ppm (FAS/DPD) (ranges between 3 and 4.5 depending)
pH - 7.7 or 7.8 (color test)
TA - 70 ppm
Calcium Hard: 230 ppm
CYA - 60 ppm (see note 2)

* Other notes
1. Hayward SWG (set at 45%; 8 hr pump run time daily)
2. I am considering raising CYA to 70-75 ppm after I check my testing agents via TFTESTKITS sampler that I ordered today that includes CYA solution calibrated at 50 ppm
3. Sometimes add Dichlor (Clorox Shock Plus) to augment SWG.
4. Phosphates are approx 1100 on average when measured by Leslies AccuBlue tester). My own testing (using phosphate strips) are inaccurate but seem to be close to 1000 based on shade of blue.
plan to lower phosphates once I have sustained balance.

Thank you

Bob

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Bob and welcome to TFP! Let's go over a few of your notes:
- Should be no need to increase your TA. That would only allow the pH to rise quicker. Leave the TA at 70. Even if it falls to 60 that's fine. Mine is at 50. But no lower than that.
- Your FC is on the low end. Use some liquid chlorine now to increase it up to about 5-7 ppm.
- #3 is okay. That will of course help increase your CYA a bit (to 70).
- No need to get too worried about phosphates right now. Focus on the main parameters of FC, CC, CYA, PH, TA, and CH. We might address phosphates in some rare situations.

PH typically rises in new plaster (N/A for you), an elevated TA (yours could come down slightly) and aeration. Lastly if someone adds a chemical that increase pH which of course you don't want. So for now, let the TA sink a bit more and that's okay. Beef-up the FC a bit to prevent algae and I think you're moving in the right direction.

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP.
A higher TA will actually make pH rise faster. Do you have any aeration that is causing pH to rise?
You are also on the low end of the scale for FC. I would increase it. It is best to use liquid chlorine to supplement SWCG.

Please read

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[rwmcmahon]

Hi Bob and welcome to TFP! Let's go over a few of your notes:
- Should be no need to increase your TA. That would only allow the pH to rise quicker. Leave the TA at 70. Even if it falls to 60 that's fine. Mine is at 50. But no lower than that.
- Your FC is on the low end. Use some liquid chlorine now to increase it up to about 5-7 ppm.
- #3 is okay. That will of course help increase your CYA a bit (to 70).
- No need to get too worried about phosphates right now. Focus on the main parameters of FC, CC, CYA, PH, TA, and CH. We might address phosphates in some rare situations.

PH typically rises in new plaster (N/A for you), an elevated TA (yours could come down slightly) and aeration. Lastly if someone adds a chemical that increase pH which of course you don't want. So for now, let the TA sink a bit more and that's okay. Beef-up the FC a bit to prevent algae and I think you're moving in the right direction.

Thank you for the feedback. I will leave TA as is and focus on raising FC. Will a unstabilized "chlorinating liquid" based on sodium hypochlorite (12.5%) be acceptable? If so, should I be prepared to add stabilizer separately (and muriatic acid to lower pH)?

 

[Texas Splash]

Will a unstabilized "chlorinating liquid" based on sodium hypochlorite (12.5%) be acceptable? If so, should I be prepared to add stabilizer separately (and muriatic acid to lower pH)?

Absolutely. Often times we prefer liquid chlorine for non-SWG owners. Easy to use with no side effects. Yes, you'll use stabilizer separately when needed, same with acid, but those are fairly easy. For those who test their water and know where they stand, if there's growing room for CYA, you certainly can use trichlor/dichlor products (tabs or powders). They key is being aware of the CYA to know if you should use it or not. That's part of being in control of the water as you are now.

 

[rwmcmahon]

Welcome to TFP.
A higher TA will actually make pH rise faster. Do you have any aeration that is causing pH to rise?
You are also on the low end of the scale for FC. I would increase it. It is best to use liquid chlorine to supplement SWCG.

Please read

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes, sometimes I do run waterfall, which after reading the reference you provide, I now understand the fundamentals of why pH is raised when water is mixed with air. Thanks for that.