Treating my green pool

[D2creative]

Hi all, been reading here and working on clearing up my pool but still have a question.
Been having a lot of trouble keeping a clear pool this year, after a really bad season opening with black water.
Mistake #1 was not draining it and starting over (4500g Intex above ground pool). After all the treatments and everything from Leslie's Pool Supply (mistake #2) i now realize that my CYA was off the charts. Pool water was clear for a bit but it starting getting cloudy and green again. SWG doesn't seem to be able to produce enough chlorine/chlorine not working. FC is zero.
So yesterday I drained at least half my water and refilled. Got my CYA back down to about 75, in range for a SWG.
Now working on getting salt levels back up and re-balancing everything.
Pool is still green of course. So my question is... once I have the water chemistry balanced and chlorine added to get back to recommended levels, do I just wait it out?
Or should I SLAM or something?

TIA!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Go right to the SLAM Process then worry about balancing the water. Get the water algae free first.

CYA of 80 is going to require a SLAM FC level of 32. You might want to drain more water to get your CYA down to 30 and a more manageable SLAM FC level of 12. The SLAM Process will likely go a lot quicker.

 

[D2creative]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Thanks, I have the Taylor K-2005 kit. Seems to have everything I need other than salt level. I have some strips for that.

 

[Msch99]

I don't think the k-2005 has the FAS-DPD test? Also guess strips for salt aren't very accurate. I would get the Taylor titration salt test.

 

[mknauss]

I have the Taylor K-2005 kit.

All you need is the FAS-DPD FC/CC test kit. See TFTestkits.net.

 

[ajw22]

You need to add the FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test to your K-2005 test kit.

 

[D2creative]

I just looked and this is the kit I have. It does have chlorine tests.

 

[mknauss]

I just looked and this is the kit I have. It does have chlorine tests.
View attachment 149839

All you need is the FAS-DPD FC/CC test kit. See TFTestkits.net.

 

[ajw22]

From Pool Test Kits - Taylor K-2005/Leslie.27 81330

The K-2005 uses a “DPD” chlorine test which has three very large pitfalls:

1. The DPD chlorine test will NOT show accurate results above 5 ppm. This is an issue if you wish to follow TFP methods, as we teach that it’s best to maintain a ratio of chlorine to CYA, see the Chlorine/CYA Chart, not just a firm 1-4 ppm.

2. The DPD chlorine test uses “color-matching.” You add a few drops of reagent to the water and then match the pink sample color to the comparator. It’s easy to mismatch the true levels.

3. Perhaps worst of all, the DPD chlorine test's pink sample color can "bleach out." If the chlorine is well above the 5 ppm limit, the pink sample color after the reagent is added can fade out or even remain clear. This can lead one to believe the chlorine level is MUCH lower than reality, potentially leading to adding even more chlorine to the pool.

In short, the K-2005 is a good kit.........it’s just not very accurate in chlorine testing.

TFP Methods requiring FC of more than 5 ppm, such as the SLAM Process and higher CYA levels, cannot be tested with the DPD chlorine test in the K-2005. You need the FAS/DPD chlorine test found in the TF-100, Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C.

If you have the K-2005 you can separately buy the FAS/DPD Chlorine Test to make your kit equivalent to the K-2006.

 

[D2creative]

Ahhhhh, ok great. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[D2creative]

Did my first SLAM treatment today. The water is already back to cloudy blue.
Will test FC again before bed and treat as necessary.

 

[D2creative]

Now over 24 hours into my first SLAM and the water is looking great! CC is staying at .5 or less. Will see how much my overnight moves tonite.
But meanwhile, I've been seeing a lot of talk here about ladders hiding algae. Figured I better check mine since it hasn't been out of the pool in.... forever.
See pic below. Yuck.
Spraying with bleach now!!!

 

[D2creative]

I went from green and cloudy to crystal blue in less than a week! Thanks TFP!

 

[mknauss]

Great Job!
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We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donations are what keeps the forum operating without advertisements.

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[D2creative]

Great Job!
Now for our shameless plug ---
We are glad you have found our information helpful. Please, if you can, consider making a donation to TFP.
We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donations are what keeps the forum operating without advertisements.

Support TFP!

Will do!
And I've already gotten the subscription for the Pool Math app.