Transition from LC back to SWG as spring temps rise?

[toddclare]

New pool this past july, and kept it "open" if not cold all summer (Atlanta, GA USA). Once the temps got low enough, I shut down the salt water generator and maintained successfully with LC all winter. Levels are good and ready for the spring and summer.

Now that the water temp is rising, wanted to check in on the right method in the transition time. For example, my temp is hovering in the mid 50s but has gone up to 62 once and will continue to go up and down. I ASSUME I'll wait until I'm consistently over 60 most or all of the time before turning on the SWG?

Also what about the case where I might heat the pool this weekend? It'll be up well over 60 for the couple of days -- just keep LC knowing those temps are artificial or?

 

[PoolStored]

Jandy advice, but likely just as applicable... @YippeeSkippy is in GA and she just leaves it off until late spring when water temp is up.



You don't have a heater in your signature. If you have a gas heater, you should wait until water temps are above 70 to avoid condensation corrosion...

Heater Condensation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Always maintain your FC for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

 

[Newdude]

So i always said I would want a consistant system, good (swg) or bad (jug lugging), because knowing what to expect helps me sleep better.

But I always had to close because crazy leaves at the old place so I never put it into practice. At the new wide open yard, I'm opening real early and shutting it down near freezing. Ive found to my delight that when the temps are dancing the cold water shutoff, it only needs to kick on for a warmer day to match the low UV demand. 4 to 6 ppm goes a long way when it's cool. Once or twice I stepped in with LC when the FC was getting low and the SWG stayed off, but most weeks I didnt need to.

 

[Bperry]

New pool this past july, and kept it "open" if not cold all summer (Atlanta, GA USA). Once the temps got low enough, I shut down the salt water generator and maintained successfully with LC all winter. Levels are good and ready for the spring and summer.

Now that the water temp is rising, wanted to check in on the right method in the transition time. For example, my temp is hovering in the mid 50s but has gone up to 62 once and will continue to go up and down. I ASSUME I'll wait until I'm consistently over 60 most or all of the time before turning on the SWG?

Also what about the case where I might heat the pool this weekend? It'll be up well over 60 for the couple of days -- just keep LC knowing those temps are artificial or?

Note that it’s the water temperature that controls whether the SWCG makes any chlorine or not. The air temp doesn’t matter. If water is over 60F it’ll probably make chlorine. If it’s below that then it may or may not.

Deciding to use the heater in extra cold weather is anseparate issue mentioned above.

 

[toddclare]

Awesome strategies specifically around the SWG and temps. Thanks to all-a-y'all.

You don't have a heater in your signature

Well shoot, now I do! The heater's been on the pad all the time, now it's in the sig as well... oopsie.

wait until water temps are above 70 to avoid condensation corrosion...

Fascinating. So... while we're here on a new topic... Yep a gas heater. Read the article (thank you) -- My brain went to two places:

1. What about using the spa in the winter? But then I saw the bit in the article about the spa being small enough to heat without being a problem, and since the heater is almost always used for the spa, and not immensely often when it's really cold, I think I'm good there.
2. The start of the article refers to "cold air" as well as water temps under 70, and I also see the Jandy specific instructions saying water temps not under 40 and not prolonged under 50. If my water is in the high 50s/~60 and I want to heat the pool for just the two days as a one-off, I'm reading I'm probably suboptimal but not in really problematic land? Air temps should be in the high 70s and even up to 80 with lows of 60 so I'm inferring from the "cold air" intro to the concept that I'm okay here? Also even if the air was cold(er) it's a one off so not "prolonged" for extended times?

 

[PoolStored]

Heater shows a blank space in your signature...

Can't address you two question...only you can make those decisions...

 

[toddclare]

Ahh I’m in dark mode so when I set my signature it looks white to me. Will fix.