total newb, don't know where to start with my TF-100

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At this point, you still have a chemistry problem (FC loss overnight), and a filtering problem (cloudy, particulates), right?

Normally, we'd recommend deep cleaning the filter. But, if I remember right, this is a new filter with new Zeosand, right? Did you self-install, or was there a builder involved? It might be worth opening up to see if there are any issues with it you can visibly see.

Zeosand theoretically filters much better than sand, but if you search on this forum you'll see as many complaints about it as good reviews. It's either a miracle worker or a dud. The fact you were able to use DE and see pressure spike means that the zeosand on it's own is not filtering at least as well as DE. So, you could spend another day cycling DE in your filter every few hours to see what it can filter out for you.

That said, if you still have FC loss, then you still have a source of organics you need to find. It could well be the SLAM is working, since cloudiness can be due to dead algae as much as alive algae... just time and patience required. Some take much longer than others for whatever reason. Have you tried elevating to Mustard shock level for 24h just in case that's part of this? That stuff is persistent and could be surviving under typical SLAM levels.
 
drharris said:
At this point, you still have a chemistry problem (FC loss overnight), and a filtering problem (cloudy, particulates), right?

Normally, we'd recommend deep cleaning the filter. But, if I remember right, this is a new filter with new Zeosand, right? Did you self-install, or was there a builder involved? It might be worth opening up to see if there are any issues with it you can visibly see.

Zeosand theoretically filters much better than sand, but if you search on this forum you'll see as many complaints about it as good reviews. It's either a miracle worker or a dud. The fact you were able to use DE and see pressure spike means that the zeosand on it's own is not filtering at least as well as DE. So, you could spend another day cycling DE in your filter every few hours to see what it can filter out for you.

That said, if you still have FC loss, then you still have a source of organics you need to find. It could well be the SLAM is working, since cloudiness can be due to dead algae as much as alive algae... just time and patience required. Some take much longer than others for whatever reason. Have you tried elevating to Mustard shock level for 24h just in case that's part of this? That stuff is persistent and could be surviving under typical SLAM levels.
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Thank you @drharris so much for the help!

Correct, still cloudy - I have a brand new sand filter from amazon.com, self-installed with 150 lbs. of Zeosand. I followed the directions to a "T". The thing that gets me is that the filter worked _great_ for the first 9 days! So I wonder if there's channeling or something else visible, like you suggested. Maybe I'll open it up and give it a look. What's the process for that, just stop the pump, set the filter to "closed" and open the air relief valve on the filter? How do I make sure all the air is completely out?

I still do indeed have FC loss - last night it was 26, this morning it was 24.

I haven't heard of elevating to Mustard shock levels, again, total newb here. :) Just looking into that now: Pool School - Mustard Algae - do you think I should give that a try next? I'll try anything at this point, lol. So according to the chart it looks like I just raise it to about 35 for 24 hrs (tomorrow around this time)? Do I need to test it every 2 hrs? Brush the entire pool once, or how often?

Thanks again!
 
garybtru said:
Correct, I have a brand new sand filter from amazon.com, self-installed with 150 lbs. of Zeosand. I followed the directions to a "T". The thing that gets me is that the filter worked _great_ for the first 9 days! So I wonder if there's channeling or something else visible, like you suggested. Maybe I'll open it up and give it a look. What's the process for that, just stop the pump, set the filter to "closed" and open the air relief valve on the filter? How do I make sure all the air is completely out?
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Just that. Valve probably to either closed or winterized, air relief valve open, disconnect/isolate from plumbing, remove valve, and you're good to go. It really shouldn't be channeled after just a few weeks, but you never know. Starting a new filter/zeosand to a SLAM could do weird things for all we know!

I still do indeed have FC loss - last night it was 26, this morning it was 24.

I haven't heard of elevating to Mustard shock levels, again, total newb here. :) Just looking into that now: Pool School - Mustard Algae - do you think I should give that a try next? I'll try anything at this point, lol. So according to the chart it looks like I just raise it to about 35 for 24 hrs (tomorrow around this time)? Do I need to test it every 2 hrs? Brush the entire pool once, or how often?

Thanks again!
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Yep, maintain the 35 level for 24 hours, test every 2 hours unless it holds well, and then less often. Brushing often will help most but I suspect your arms at this point rival Schwarzenegger so you might be getting a bit tired. At least once at the beginning, and then maybe again halfway at a minimum. More if your arms hold up. Still, this is probably a long shot; it really sounds more like filtration at this point and not much of your pool seems shaded, but it may be worth trying. Typically Mustard algae SLAM is because the problem keeps coming back (not because of SLAM taking long), but given you still have something still eating FC this long after starting the SLAM, it's worth a try.
 
As the pool was clearing did you add anything to the pool (other than bleach) around the time your pool started its regression? Did you fertilize your yard for instance?

Anyway, as drharris has mentioned, the loss of 4 ppm overnight means you are fighting organics of some form.
 
jaduck said:
As the pool was clearing did you add anything to the pool (other than bleach) around the time your pool started its regression? Did you fertilize your yard for instance?

Anyway, as drharris has mentioned, the loss of 4 ppm overnight means you are fighting organics of some form.
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Hmm, well I mowed the lawn around the pool sometime–can't remember if that was before or after the regression–but was very careful not to get any grass in the water. The grass is about 5-6 feet away from the water. No fertilizer was involved, and no other chemicals other than the 10% liquid chlorine have been added as far as I know. Well, other than rain and some tap/house water after the backwashing.
 
I would treat for mustard algae as proposed. If no improvement, then deep clean your sand filter. I believe it is just gonna take time, sorry! I am convinced that you are still fighting algae and a big dose of POP (pool owner patience) is the ticket. It will clear. Once it is finally done, you will not regret the time you are spending right now!
 
Mustard algae treatment and mustard algae levels are only used when the typical SLAM is completed. It seems like you have a filter problem that has not been resolved. You stated that your filter did a great job and then it didn't... so that suggests that there is an issue with your filter. This is not the time to raise your FC to mustard levels.

Also, you might want to consider switching from zeosand to regular sand. Too many folks on this forum have complaints of cloudy water with zeosand.
 

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Hi, it looks like no change after 2 days of the Mustard Algae FC level of 35. I wasn't able to check it every 2 hours, but 4. I think it got down to 26.5 late in the day (on the first day) so I brought the FC back up when I could and kept it that way for another 24h, checking it every 2 hrs. It's now down to 32.5, but still no visual change in cloudiness. It seems that it doesn't matter if my FC is 20, or 35, or 500, something is just not "clicking" and clearing this pool up!

So I'm now going to try opening up the filter and see what I can find. This method is also listed on the Zeosand site: ZEO Inc. Trouble Shooting under "Water Not Clearing Up - Turbidity Not Being Removed". Hmph.

I am indeed considering switching to regular sand!! Ughhh. Which would be so not fun, and suck a lot! If something is too good to be true it usually is, I guess. Can anyone recommend a brand of "regular" sand? Maybe hth or AquaQuartz, etc? Or are they all pretty much the same?

Edit: Question, should I backwash before I open this up and deep clean, or does that not matter since I'm deep cleaning it? :D

Thanks again for the help you guys, I really need it and appreciate it!
 
Sand is sand just make sure it is pool sand. A quick search on this website shows that the some folk didn't like the Quikrete brand. Just make sure you rinse it well before you set it to filter. ONce you change, you might want to use a little DE to help speed up the clearing process.
 
kcindc said:
Sand is sand just make sure it is pool sand. A quick search on this website shows that the some folk didn't like the Quikrete brand. Just make sure you rinse it well before you set it to filter. ONce you change, you might want to use a little DE to help speed up the clearing process.
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Okay thanks, gonna try the deep clean to see if that helps... but if I have to do that every few weeks, that's gonna get old fast. :(

Do you think I should backwash before I open 'er up and deep clean?

Thanks again.
 
Many folks on this forum have used sand and don't have the issues you are having with the zeosand. Sand people usually do a deep clean once a year. Sand is pretty cheap. I would just replace it and be done with it.
 
It could very well be the SLAM "used up" whatever charge is on that sand, and a refresh would work. That could easily explain a regression in SLAM. I don't really know, though. It looks like a fairly harmless procedure though, so it could be worth a try rather than spending more money on new sand. I would definitely drop back to normal SLAM levels at this point - 24 hours is normally a maximum because it can result in liner fading.

If you decide to recharge and keep the zeo, I'd still do a yearly deep clean combined with that recharge procedure. But it does sound like consensus is against the zeo stuff, and sadly your situation may be yet another example :(
 
okay thanks, i think i’ll just try regular sand. but i read somewhere to stay away from the brown sand. the local pool shop has this tan colored stuff, not really “white.” sidley is the brand. think that will do the trick?

Edit: wow that sounds racist but I promise it's not! :eek:

Here's a photo:
F9Je7KO.jpg
 
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