Our water is crystal clear and tests ok on strips and at the pool store. The pool store, 3 days ago when tested, told us to brush it really well and there was nothing else we needed to do. When we got out today, I noticed my white swimsuit was a light green. In our skimmer, there is a green ring around the basket. We have a metal eliminator pack in the basket and it is light green as well.....which, according to the packaging that came with, indicates too much copper. How do we correct this issue?
too much copper???
- Thread starter lehman
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,603
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
To remove copper when it is in the water, you need to drain and replace that water with fresh water.
If the copper is in a stain on the pool surfaces, you need to release that copper first and then drain.
TFPC does not use any products that contain copper. We suggest you do not either.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
To remove copper when it is in the water, you need to drain and replace that water with fresh water.
If the copper is in a stain on the pool surfaces, you need to release that copper first and then drain.
TFPC does not use any products that contain copper. We suggest you do not either.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
Welcome to the forumwave:
The chances are you are applying copper into your pool without knowing it.
Can you post a current set of your own test results? We simply have no faith in pool store results.
How are you currently chlorinating?
The chances are you are applying copper into your pool without knowing it.
Can you post a current set of your own test results? We simply have no faith in pool store results.
How are you currently chlorinating?
The pool store had us put GLB Strike-out Algaecide due to a brown/yellow mold in spots in the bottom of our above ground pool (24 ft x 48 in) which they said due to all the rain we have had. I have used a 4 check test strip which have the results of TBr of 5, (which says in good range) FCI of 10 which is over the ideal of ALK of 80 (in ideal range on the bottle), ph shows 6.2 on strip which indicates low. On a 5 check strip it has a hardness of 500 in the ideal range on bottle total chlorine 3, Free Chlorine a 10 (which indicates high in bottle) PH shows 6.8 ( which indicates low), ALK is 120 on that strip which shows good according to the bottle picture. We use 3 inch chlorine tablets in a floater which is open all the way. Do you think its do to placing the strike-out in and can this be corrected without draining the pool?
There is your source - "GLB Strike-Out Algaecide is a triple, chelated 7.4% copper algaecide "
You need to take control of your pool.
We find (and so have yo now) that many times pool store employees primary goal is to sell stuff, not necessarily get your pool in perfect condition. As to whether that is because of improper training, lack of knowledge or just to sell stuff I will leave up to you. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite.
Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?
But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™
Please don't go back to the pool store for a test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. The TF-100 Test Kit ™ has this test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
While entirely optional, I also have the Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer and Sample Sizer Measuring Tool . They speed testing and accuracy.
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As Marty said above, the only way to get copper out of the water is by draining the copper filled water and adding fresh water in it's place.
Thanks we will get that kit ...
Do you recommend any chemicals to put in there now to fix this problem with the copper?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,048
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
As Allen said, read about it in Pool School - but, there is no practical way to remove iron or copper from the water short of replacing the water with new water that doesn’t have any iron or copper in it.
Makes me wanna go in and ask the pool store if they wanna pay for the water replacement and the bathing suit!? (actually if you soak the suit in some water with lemon juice in it it *might* come out but I doubt its good for the elastic)
Maddie
Maddie