Time between Shocking and Algaecide Addition

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Moi

Moi

Active member
Aug 7, 2015
28
Citrus County, Florida
Hi there,

I recently returned home after being away for a while and found my pool guy (now fired) did not do his job. There was debris (leaves) in the pools, Chlorinator was broken, Filter was plugged, and there were dark (black) spots on the Diamond Britepool surface which will not brush off, the chlorine level was at 0 and pH was high. I plan on doing the following steps:

1) Lower the pH (Done)
2) Clean the filter.
3) Brush the Pool with a Stainless bristle brush (difficult to do due to a disability)
4) Shock the Pool with 1 Gallon of Chlorine. I have shock packages too but will use the liquid for faster mixing and dispersion.
5) Add 1 Quart of Black Algaecide.

How long should I wait between Shocking and adding Algaecide? Have I missed anything?

Thanks for any tips and advice,

Peter B.
 
We recommend following a much different process than you describe. We do not 'shock', we do not use Algaecide.

Follow the SLAM Process process. You need a proper test kit to follow it. Do you have one? If so, please post a full set of test results.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.
 
mknauss said:
We recommend following a much different process than you describe. We do not 'shock', we do not use Algaecide.

Follow the SLAM Process process. You need a proper test kit to follow it. Do you have one? If so, please post a full set of test results.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.
Click to expand...

Thanks Marty for the prompt reply.

I have a Taylor K-2005C kit and a Taylor Phosphate kit. I am going to clean the filter then will check the pool and post the results. I had Pinch-a-Penny store run them for me yesterday, but their results are often somewhat different to mine, so I'll post mine too as soon as I have them. This is what they found:
TC 0.0
FC 0.0
CC 0.0
pH 8.0 I added acid yesterday.
TA 90 ppm
CH 360 ppm
CYA 100 ppm

I will post a new set after I have cleaned the Filter.

Best regards.
 
The K2005 does not include the FAS-DPD test for FC. You will need that.

The CYA they show implies you need to exchange at least half of your water with fresh. Also, 100 is normally as high as they can test it, so it may be much higher. You need to do your own testing of the CYA before you start anything.
 
mknauss said:
The K2005 does not include the FAS-DPD test for FC. You will need that.

The CYA they show implies you need to exchange at least half of your water with fresh. Also, 100 is normally as high as they can test it, so it may be much higher. You need to do your own testing of the CYA before you start anything.
Click to expand...

Hi Marty,

My local PaP store can test for FC, and my kit has a test for it too. The CYA has always (18 years) run around 100 and has not caused any issues, also I cannot drain any water from the pool right now. To do that I would have to make physical changes to the plumbing system and cannot do that at the moment due to a disability. It would require swapping out a section of 1.5" piping at the 5 way cleaning valve for a section with 100 feet of 1.5" hose attached. Me thinks that a chemical solution is needed right now instead of draining the pool.

Any suggestions, I would have liked to do it your way, but it is not possible at the moment. Any suggestions?

P.S. I have used the docs you linked in the first response from time to time. Good reference material.

Thanks.
 
Moi, confirm that your CYA is really 100 by diluting your pool sample by 50% and having the diluted sample tested. If your diluted 50% CYA tests at 50 then your pool CYA is 100. Chances are the diluted sample test will be more than 50.

100 is the highest many pool store tests go and if the CYA is over 100 it just says 100.

Knowing your CYA is critcial to a successful SLAM Process
 
mknauss said:
IF, and it is a big IF, your CYA is just 100, then you would need a FC of 39ppm to SLAM Process.

Up to you.
Click to expand...
Hi Marty, as Allen says in his post I'll dilute my sample by 50% and see what the CYA level is then take it from there. Also I'll see if I can find a volunteer to hook up my draining system then put it all back again when I have dumped some water.

Best regards.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Allen, it never occurred to me to dilute the pool sample, thanks for the brain restart. I'll post back as soon as I have a number. If it is super high, I could dilute to 25% too then extrapolate the result.

Best regards.
 
I don’t understand why you need to swap out a section of pipe to drain.

Most of us buy or rent a submersible pump. You can connect it to a garden hose or larger piping. Drop the pump in your pool, put the hose end where you can discharge water, and plug it in.
 
You're gonna need a LOT more liquid chlorine than one measly gallon.

You also seem to need a FAS-DPD chlorine test to test far higher than the dinky one you and pool store is using. Get this:
FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test

You can rent or buy a sump pump to assist in draining the pool without using your equipment. Home Depot rents sump pumps.

And easier yet if you have a low spot in the yard- you can just use a hose and siphon water out, y'know, the old fashioned low tech way. VIdeos for reference on this old fashioned skill available on YouTube.

Maddie :flower:
 

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Hello again, I just drew another sample of pool water and cut it by 50% with tap water. I filled the test device until the black dot disappeared at the 40% mark. However it is getting dark here (6pm) and was hard to see. I'll do another in the daylight. If I am out and about tomorrow I'll take another diluted sample to PaP for a double check.

Best regards.
 
ajw22 said:
I don’t understand why you need to swap out a section of pipe to drain.

Most of us buy or rent a submersible pump. You can connect it to a garden hose or larger piping. Drop the pump in your pool, put the hose end where you can discharge water, and plug it in.
Click to expand...

You young-un's may be able to manage sump pumps and garden hoses and so on but not I, not any more, am no longer able-bodied. I cannot even carry one bag of groceries. The pool system was built 18 years ago without any simple way to drain the pool so a section of cleaning system piping that has screwed couplings on it has be removed and a 1.5" hose could be added if and when required. 100 years ago I had planned on adding a tee and shut off valve in that line for draining purposes but never got around to it. C'est la Vie.
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Ahh... makes a LOT of difference. You can call your test kit the equivalent of the Taylor K-2006 then.

But why bother going to Pinch-a-Penny for confirmation if you've got the awesome kit already? Don't trust your own results??? :(

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...

I only go to them occasionally just to confirm my results and build confidence. It has been Months since I last went there. I don't really like them, they always want you to buy something. When they recommend something I say, oh I already have some, thanks. I buy my tabs at Lowe's or Wallyworld, but go to PaP for Acid and liquid Chlorine when I need some.

- - - Updated - - -

mknauss said:
That is what you need - but - it is a very small amount and will be consumed during a SLAM very quickly.

This is better. Nearly 3 times as many tests.
FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test
Click to expand...

Thanks Marty, I am looking in to it, as in shopping for the best price. Been on fixed income for a decade so I watch the pennies.
 
We find that many times pool store employees primary goal is to sell stuff, not necessarily get your pool in perfect condition. As to whether that is because of improper training, lack of knowledge or just to sell stuff I will leave up to you. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their advice and testing.
Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?

Marty has given you the best advice, get the FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test

While entirely optional, I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

For long term ease of maintenance you need to stop using any solid forms of chlorine. Most of them are almost half CYA and this is why you are in the problem you are in with your CYA.
 
Pool store tests will run you in circles instead of doing anything else

Use your own tests and report back

Cya test
Slam
Win
Guaranteed

Moderator comment:Fixed spelling error that was driving me crazy
 
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