Thoughts on my pool equipment install

Is putting elbows in my system to connect these lines going to be an issue?
I'm worried that having a bunch of 90° turns is bad for the system. Make sense?
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Let's say it is not optimal but you are unlikely to see much of a difference. Having the 90s may require 100 rpm more on the pump then if you didn't have the 90s.
 
Sweeps are a better way of doing 90° turns, but actual proper schedule 40 sweeps are rather hard to find (though a plumber/pool builder should have access to them), and anything you'll find in a hardware/big box store is a DWV part. Understanding hydraulics is not exactly my forte, but after reading dozens of threads on here about head, plumbing, and debates over what the Crane TP-410 says, the difference is small enough to probably not matter. I wouldn't start building tons of 180 degree turns with a bunch of 90s, but with 2" piping at swimming pool pressures, it isn't the end of the world. I'd wager 97% of pools in the US are plumbed just like yours.
 
The cheap ball valves (instead of proper Jandy valves) and a sketchy heater bypass are more of a long-term concern than a few extra elbows in a pipe run.
 
Sweeps are a better way of doing 90° turns, but actual proper schedule 40 sweeps are rather hard to find (though a plumber/pool builder should have access to them), and anything you'll find in a hardware/big box store is a DWV part. Understanding hydraulics is not exactly my forte, but after reading dozens of threads on here about head, plumbing, and debates over what the Crane TP-410 says, the difference is small enough to probably not matter. I wouldn't start building tons of 180 degree turns with a bunch of 90s, but with 2" piping at swimming pool pressures, it isn't the end of the world. I'd wager 97% of pools in the US are plumbed just like yours.
Thank you!
 
The ball valves shown over time (a couple years) will get difficult to turn and the handles will get brittle and probably break.
Use Jandy 2-way or 3-way valves instead.

The Jandy valves can be rebuilt if necessary.
Ball valves have to be cut out and replaced.
 
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+1. The ball valves will break and whether it's on year 3 or 7, the PB will be long gone and you'll be paying top dollar to replace them.
 

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All of them, And you are going to want to be able to isolate the bubblers from the returns. You will not want to run the bubblers all the time.
 
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The equipment guy is putting an actuator on the bubbler so I can run them with the Pentair automation.
Not with those valves they are not.
Do you have a brand of valve you recommend? I know about Jandy Pentair and Haywood period I see some off brands that look similar and are cheaper, are they as good?
I would get Jandy Never Lube valves.
 
Do you have a brand of valve you recommend? I know about Jandy Pentair and Haywood period I see some off brands that look similar and are cheaper, are they as good?
Jandy, Hayward, Pentair, CMP, diverter valves are equally good.

You should get diverter valves from the same manufacturer as the actuators you will use on top of them since different screw threads are used in some. Putting mismatched screws and threads can cause cracking if the screw holes.
 
How should my valves be configured?
I'm getting the equipment guy to install all Jandy valves. I have a feeling the way they're configured now isn't optimum.
I'd love to get the groups thoughts on how these vows should be configured.
For example, should I have an outflow port so I could use the pump to lower the water level in the pool?
The heat pump has 3 valves. Is that the way to do it?

Thanks for your insight.

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