Let's say it is not optimal but you are unlikely to see much of a difference. Having the 90s may require 100 rpm more on the pump then if you didn't have the 90s.Is putting elbows in my system to connect these lines going to be an issue?
I'm worried that having a bunch of 90° turns is bad for the system. Make sense?
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Please explain. I'm interested in your insights.The cheap ball valves (instead of proper Jandy valves) and a sketchy heater bypass are more of a long-term concern than a few extra elbows in a pipe run.
Thank you!Let's say it is not optimal but you are unlikely to see much of a difference. Having the 90s may require 100 rpm more on the pump then if you didn't have the 90s.
Thank you!Sweeps are a better way of doing 90° turns, but actual proper schedule 40 sweeps are rather hard to find (though a plumber/pool builder should have access to them), and anything you'll find in a hardware/big box store is a DWV part. Understanding hydraulics is not exactly my forte, but after reading dozens of threads on here about head, plumbing, and debates over what the Crane TP-410 says, the difference is small enough to probably not matter. I wouldn't start building tons of 180 degree turns with a bunch of 90s, but with 2" piping at swimming pool pressures, it isn't the end of the world. I'd wager 97% of pools in the US are plumbed just like yours.
Which one of these valves need to be changed? All of them?The ball valves shown over time (a couple years) will get difficult to turn and the handles will get brittle and probably break.
Use Jandy 2-way or 3-way valves instead.
The Jandy valves can be rebuilt if necessary.
Ball valves have to be cut out and replaced.
Can't I turn the bubblers off with valves three and four?All of them, And you are going to want to be able to isolate the bubblers from the returns. You will not want to run the bubblers all the time.
You can. A lot of intervention each time you run the pool.Can't I turn the bubblers off with valves three and four?
The equipment guy is putting an actuator on the bubbler so I can run them with the Pentair automation.You can. A lot of intervention each time you run the pool.
Do you have a brand of valve you recommend? I know about Jandy Pentair and Haywood period I see some off brands that look similar and are cheaper, are they as good?You can. A lot of intervention each time you run the pool.
Not with those valves they are not.The equipment guy is putting an actuator on the bubbler so I can run them with the Pentair automation.
I would get Jandy Never Lube valves.Do you have a brand of valve you recommend? I know about Jandy Pentair and Haywood period I see some off brands that look similar and are cheaper, are they as good?
Jandy, Hayward, Pentair, CMP, diverter valves are equally good.Do you have a brand of valve you recommend? I know about Jandy Pentair and Haywood period I see some off brands that look similar and are cheaper, are they as good?