Thinking of making the switch - Installation questions

[Jimrahbe]

A couple posts up I mentioned a trickling sound I could hear from the heater output as well as just a more audible sound of water running through the return valves in general.

J,

Most likely just less back pressure with all the "stuff" removed..

What is your filter pressure at 1500 RPM now, and what was your filter pressure before your upgrade?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Newdude]

Most likely just less back pressure with all the "stuff" removed..

+1. I had real simple plumbing with a short run to the pool and my Pentair HP had enough flow at 1k rpms to work. It made a trickle-y sound as the water passed through it from day 1. When it turned on the noise would drown out the trickle, but I imagine it was still there.

 

[jlamb5990]

+1. I had real simple plumbing with a short run to the pool and my Pentair HP had enough flow at 1k rpms to work. It made a trickle-y sound as the water passed through it from day 1. When it turned on the noise would drown out the trickle, but I imagine it was still there.

That’s good to hear. Ya If it wasn’t a new sound I wouldn’t have been too concerned since the flow is fine and all the returns are working. It doesn’t sound particularly bad, just different. Just always get nervous with a new install and things don’t sound the “same” as before

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

Most likely just less back pressure with all the "stuff" removed..

What is your filter pressure at 1500 RPM now, and what was your filter pressure before your upgrade?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim

So I think before this I was around 10psi.

After the install and putting the filter back together from draining I’m barely at 5psi when running at 1500rpm. If I go up to 2500 rpm I get to 10 psi.

Also the flow light is red on the cell until I get to about 2000rpm which seems high?

Also final issue is that at low rpm everything seems solid and sealed but bumping up to higher rpm(2000+) there is small drip(like I’m talking tiny droplet every 10 seconds or so) from the top elbow. Anyway to seal this without cutting it all out and refitting?

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

You can try running a bead of PVC glue around the joint with the pump off.

Jim R.

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

You can try running a bead of PVC glue around the joint with the pump off.

Jim R.

Yep will give that a shot. Any input on the pump speeds and flow light? Also is 5psi ok on the filter?

 

[Jimrahbe]

j,

My filter pressure is usually about 1 pound at 1200 RPM. Filter pressure is backwards from what most think. The lower the pressure the better the flow. The pressure you see is how much effort it takes to push the water through the filter. That said, I do not have a heater.

If you install a heater by-pass, then you should be able to run at a much lower RPM and still close your flow switch.

Have you ever cleaned your filter since the pool was built? Often during the build stage, all kinds of stuff can make it into the filter.

I went back and took a look at some of your pics. Why do you have the valves on your return side only half open? What do the two pool side valves control?

It also appears to me that you have way too much water going to your spa spillover. Your Return actuator is set for 50% spa and 50% pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jlamb5990]

j,

My filter pressure is usually about 1 pound at 1200 RPM. Filter pressure is backwards from what most think. The lower the pressure the better the flow. The pressure you see is how much effort it takes to push the water through the filter. That said, I do not have a heater.

If you install a heater by-pass, then you should be able to run at a much lower RPM and still close your flow switch.

Have you ever cleaned your filter since the pool was built? Often during the build stage, all kinds of stuff can make it into the filter.

I went back and took a look at some of your pics. Why do you have the valves on your return side only half open? What do the two pool side valves control?

It also appears to me that you have way too much water going to your spa spillover. Your Return actuator is set for 50% spa and 50% pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim

So ya it’s a bit confusing. I think it works for us but let me know if you see issues.

The half open valve to the returns we’re set up by my pool builder and are for pool mode only which allows a small (like trickle down the wall) spillover from the spa all day long while the pump runs. It gets me good FC circulation and my wife likes how it looks so I kept it hah! Also I’ve been checking my ph and I don’t see any elevations at this level of constant aeration so I’m comfortable with it.

In spa mode the actuator closes completely to just spa returns

Spillover is used purely as a show off feature for back yard events so I wanted to pump it up for more of a waterfall effect. But it is rarely used and not on a schedule.

I probably need to do a proper filter clean. When I drained it for the plumbing there was a good amount of plaster pebbles in it I sprayed out but I didn’t actually take out the filters since I was battling daylight to complete the job.

 

[jlamb5990]

j,

My filter pressure is usually about 1 pound at 1200 RPM. Filter pressure is backwards from what most think. The lower the pressure the better the flow. The pressure you see is how much effort it takes to push the water through the filter. That said, I do not have a heater.

If you install a heater by-pass, then you should be able to run at a much lower RPM and still close your flow switch.

Have you ever cleaned your filter since the pool was built? Often during the build stage, all kinds of stuff can make it into the filter.

I went back and took a look at some of your pics. Why do you have the valves on your return side only half open? What do the two pool side valves control?

It also appears to me that you have way too much water going to your spa spillover. Your Return actuator is set for 50% spa and 50% pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Just did a proper filter clean. A lot of pebbles in there from the plaster curing I guess. Also think I may have out the filter on a little loose the first time because it all seems a lot tighter now and my flow switch is working at 1250rpm and the trickling sounds seems to have gone down.

 

[jlamb5990]

@Jimrahbe

There was a copper wire coming out of the ground connected to the UV canister. I’m assuming it was a binding wire as there are a few others (the the filter, pump, heater)

Do I have to do anything specific with the UV one? I have it just twisted in with the others for now but want to make sure there’s not a safety concern with it just hanging out not connected to a piece of equipment.

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

You are correct, it is a bonding wire. You don't have to do anything with it. It will not be a safety issue to just leave it tucked out of the way.

Everything electrical should have one. Note that the salt cell itself does not have one, but the EasyTouch should.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

You are correct, it is a bonding wire. You don't have to do anything with it. It will not be a safety issue to just leave it tucked out of the way.

Everything electrical should have one. Note that the salt cell itself does not have one, but the EasyTouch should.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Good to know. My salt test kit comes in today and I’m adding salt this afternoon! Thanks again for the help!

 

[jlamb5990]

Just tested the water with the Taylor kit and the IC40 was surprisingly spot on at 400ppm. 6 bags of Mortons pool salt later and im at 3300ppm according to the Taylor. IC40 says 3800 but im going to trust the Taylor and see how it goes. Flow light is green and so is the salt level light.

Thinking of setting the intellichlor to 50% tomorrow for the inaugural run. My pump schedule is 8am-5pm at 1500rpm. According to Pentair (and my shoddy math). That should produce about 3ppm of Chlorine for my 10K gallon pool. Excited to see how it all plays out!

Thanks again to everyone. I wouldn't have been able to come close to this without yalls input and guidance!

 

[Mdragger88]

Whoo hoo Way to go!