Thinking of making the switch - Installation questions

[jlamb5990]

Alright so I’m only 2 months into our first pool and after soaking up as much knowledge as I can from all of you, I think I’m already ready to make a switch to a SWCG. My PB set us up with an inline Chlorinator which I quickly abandoned and have been going the LC/Bleach route but already see it becoming more of a chore than I want and salt seems like the answer for the future before pool season hits.

My question is about installation and if I can do this myself. I’m pretty handy but electrical work makes nervous sometimes. We have all Pentair equipment and the Easy Touch panel. I want to stick with pentair for my salt system too for ease of automation (probably the ic20) Can I just swap out my inline Chlorinator with the salt system and not have to cut any pipes? Also what is involved in the power to the system? Do I have to get the separate little power box then run that to the panel or can it all just feed directly to the easy touch? Is this something I should just sub out to a professional? I attached a few pictures of our whole setup too. Any guidance would be really appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Your ET has a low voltage CB for the Intellichlor. If you can, take off the cover from the ET (be careful as there is live Electric inside) and post a picture of the insides.

 

[mknauss]

Look at taking out the UV and the Chlorinator to have room for the Intellichlor.

 

[jlamb5990]

Your ET has a low voltage CB for the Intellichlor. If you can, take off the cover from the ET (be careful as there is live Electric inside) and post a picture of the insides.

So here’s the inside of the panel. Im totally up for removing the Chlorinator but the less interested in removing the UV. I know they kind of gimmicky but it’s also a larger piece of equipment that I don’t necessarily want to get into removing if I don’t have to. I was under the impression that the intellichlors were pretty small and could just slide into the same spot as where the Chlorinator is now?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I was under the impression that the intellichlors were pretty small and could just slide into the same spot as where the Chlorinator is now?

Most likely, the SWG will not work with the existing unions (even with the off-chance that they were the same length).

One problem I see...coming off the UV system, you have a union, check valve and union all butted up next to each other. You'll need to replace the union on the UV system, then cut the other union, and plumb in the SWG. You'll have to check with the manufacturer for that style of union.

If you're set on keeping the UV, your other option is the install the SWG in the u-section after the elbow coming off the heater and before the elbow into the UV system. It would be a pretty easy install since you can remove that section of pipe by disconnecting the unions. Not sure if you'll have enough ground and wall clearance.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[jlamb5990]

Most likely, the SWG will not work with the existing unions (even with the off-chance that they were the same length).

One problem I see...coming off the UV system, you have a union, check valve and union all butted up next to each other. You'll need to replace the union on the UV system, then cut the other union, and plumb in the SWG. You'll have to check with the manufacturer for that style of union.

If you're set on keeping the UV, your other option is the install the SWG in the u-section after the elbow coming off the heater and before the elbow into the UV system. It would be a pretty easy install since you can remove that section of pipe by disconnecting the unions. Not sure if you'll have enough ground and wall clearance.

Just my 2 cents...

Ya it definitely looks tight in the Chlorinator space. A lot happening in those 2’ or so. Here’s some better picture behind the heater. Definitely more length but the clearance is tight. It’s about 2” off the ground and 3-4” off the wall.

If that’s not an option, removing the UV seems like the only answer then? Would I have to take the line coming out the heater and run a elbow straight up to meet the level of the actuator valve then install the the salt system on that new run (drew a rough i mage of the pvc and flow I’m talking about). Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

It appears to me the PB put a different CB in place of the normal Intellichlor low voltage CB. Not sure what it is for.

I do believe you need the power center. @Jimrahbe can confirm.

The UV thing just consumes FC. I would pull it out and sell it. And I suspect you will not like buying the expensive replacement bulbs every year or less.

 

[jlamb5990]

It appears to me the PB put a different CB in place of the normal Intellichlor low voltage CB. Not sure what it is for.

I do believe you need the power center. @Jimrahbe can confirm.

The UV thing just consumes FC. I would pull it out and sell it. And I suspect you will not like buying the expensive replacement bulbs every year or less.

Hmm that’s strange. Can you point out where on the panel the cb for the intellichlor goes? Ya I guess I could sell the UV but just hate the idea of already axing something that was just installed a couple weeks ago (at least it was a toss in for free because it was before I know how useless they were)

Is that something you have to sell privately or you think a pool store or. Hinder would take it as credit for installing a SWG?

 

[mknauss]

See the gray low voltage CB in the upper right of the ET panel? It is 12 amp I believe.

You would sell the UV thing privately through a local web based system. Remember, it will need new bulbs often. It truly just consumes electricity and FC, plus the cost of new bulbs. Does nothing for an outdoor pool. You get sun in S Louisiana, that is all the UV you need.

 

[jlamb5990]

See the gray low voltage CB in the upper right of the ET panel? It is 12 amp I believe.

You would sell the UV thing privately through a local web based system. Remember, it will need new bulbs often. It truly just consumes electricity and FC, plus the cost of new bulbs. Does nothing for an outdoor pool. You get sun in S Louisiana, that is all the UV you need.

I wonder if he plugged any lights or the motorized valves (actuators, we have two) into that circuit Sounds like right route to take. Hopefully it can offset the cost of the salt system too!

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

Your EasyTouch does not have the normal internal salt cell transformer, power supply or wiring.

If you want to install a IC40 or IC60 salt cell, you will need to have an external power center. The Power center would then need to be wired into the EasyTouch's pump/filter relay as well as the com port.

Can you tell me what the small box on the wall to the right of your EasyTouch is for???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If that’s not an option, removing the UV seems like the only answer then? Would I have to take the line coming out the heater and run a elbow straight up to meet the level of the actuator valve then install the the salt system on that new run (drew a rough i mage of the pvc and flow I’m talking about). Thanks.

I'll preface this by saying I would get rid of the UV system. Price out the bulbs and determine if it's worth keeping.

If you really have a hard time parting with it, check if the UV system and (existing) chlorinator unions are compatible. If so, remove chlorinator, slide the UV system forward and connect it to the existing chlorinator's output union. Discard the other two unions and check valve that are butted together. You should have plenty of room behind the UV system to plumb in the SWG.

 

[HermanTX]

Ya I guess I could sell the UV but just hate the idea of already axing something that was just installed a couple weeks ago (at least it was a toss in for free because it was before I know how useless they were)

If it was me, I would cut the pipe before the UV and then again after the chlorinator and then repipe for just the SWCG. It would be a cleaner, neater set up and no worries about those 2 units leaking or whatever in the future. The UV is sunk cost (even if free) so best to remove it - sell it if you can to claw back some $$ - and move on to a better set up with a SWCG only.

You can use a floater to hold pucks if you have need to do so in the winter months if you travel when your SWCG is not in use.

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

Your EasyTouch does not have the normal internal salt cell transformer, power supply or wiring.

If you want to install a IC40 or IC60 salt cell, you will need to have an external power center. The Power center would then need to be wired into the EasyTouch's pump/filter relay as well as the com port.

Can you tell me what the small box on the wall to the right of your EasyTouch is for???

Thanks,

Jim R.

That makes sense. I’m honestly not sure what it’s for. It runs directly into the panel but nothing is plugged into it. Could it be for the pump? Or for the power to the actual panel computer?

 

[jlamb5990]

If it was me, I would cut the pipe before the UV and then again after the chlorinator and then repipe for just the SWCG. It would be a cleaner, neater set up and no worries about those 2 units leaking or whatever in the future. The UV is sunk cost (even if free) so best to remove it - sell it if you can to claw back some $$ - and move on to a better set up with a SWCG only.

You can use a floater to hold pucks if you have need to do so in the winter months if you travel when your SWCG is not in use.

Ya that’s seeming like the route. Any ideas on how that would affect my panel and my circuits that are already wired. Look at the picture I posted earlier. My PB has my pump breaker tied in with the UV breaker so if I took the UV out, would I have to get a new breaker for just the pump or could I just remove the wiring from the UV and leave the breaker in?

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

Your EasyTouch does not have the normal internal salt cell transformer, power supply or wiring.

If you want to install a IC40 or IC60 salt cell, you will need to have an external power center. The Power center would then need to be wired into the EasyTouch's pump/filter relay as well as the com port.

Can you tell me what the small box on the wall to the right of your EasyTouch is for???

Thanks,

Jim R.

This is the wiring running from that pentair power box inside the panel (red arrow). Any idea based off that picture what it’s going to?

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

My "guess" is that it is a transformer or power supply for your UV system, but that is just a guess as I can't really trace the wires.

Please show us a close-up pic of the label on the front of the box.

I just took another look, and I don't see a lights transformer. That is my new guess..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

My "guess" is that it is a transformer or power supply for your UV system, but that is just a guess as I can't really trace the wires.

Please show us a close-up pic of the label on the front of the box.

I just took another look, and I don't see a lights transformer. That is my new guess..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yep I think you nailed it. Got in for a closer look and was able to trace closer. The red wire is running to the light breaker. The purple runs up the one of the low voltage circuits, not sure what it’s for though. Green runs to ground terminal I think. No idea what this white one is going to but I traced it on the picture. And then another purple runs out of that hole into the spa electrical entrance at the bottom?

I’m confused about why the panel would have an intellichlor circuit at the top right if it wasn’t able to work with it?

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

The "IntelliChlor" breaker is not a Pentair breaker. I have no idea what it is for.

It does appear that you have the SWCG connector at the bottom left of the enclosure.

Show us a pic with the door at the top of the EasyTouch pulled down..

Just to be clear, the purple line is going to an Aux relay.. All the Aux relays are part of the high voltage (120- or 240-volts AC) circuits. Not something to touch with power on.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jlamb5990]

J,

The "IntelliChlor" breaker is not a Pentair breaker. I have no idea what it is for.

It does appear that you have the SWCG connector at the bottom left of the enclosure.

Show us a pic with the door at the top of the EasyTouch pulled down..

Just to be clear, the purple line is going to an Aux relay.. All the Aux relays are part of the high voltage (120- or 240-volts AC) circuits. Not something to touch with power on.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim

Not sure if I understood what you meant by the top but this is what I got. Also took a picture of the power supply box which seems to say it’s a “low voltage safety transformer”. Also all the black wires that run on the left side up to the top of the panel I traced to the actuators. Let me know if need a different or better picture.

I’m also starting to think I may just leave it to a professional