The mysteries of my Lanark Cantwell Bay

GreenLeaf

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Jan 10, 2022
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Melbourne AU
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I've just bought a second-hand Lanark Cantwell Bay. It's in relatively good condition, and I'm working through the new-owner niggles. It uses an MSPA/Gecko system, Gecko 530AA0540 heater, MSPA main-board whose PCB says it's a "9911-500149 Rev:C" and 10 button control panel.

All the jumpers are set to the left, which according to the diagram on the inside of the cover says it is:

JMP1 - Single phase 1 x 32A (yep)
JMP2 - TSC-4 10 Keys (yep)
JMP3 - With blower (yep)
JMP4 - Pump #1 (1 Speed) (Odd - The pump this switches says is is a Elettromeccanica Gambugliano dual speed 2850/1450 rpm on its plate, should this jumper be set to 2 speed?)
JMP5 - Pump #2 (1 speed)
JMP6 - With Pump #3
JMP7 - With Circ Pump (Not sure what a circ pump is, or what it looks like)
JMP8 - Press switch on pump #1 (Not sure what this means)

There are two single speed pumps on the left and right sides, and a dual speed pump which sucks from the filters and pushes into the heater.

My question is...

1. What is the usual purpose of the "Filter Pump" button? I ask because when I press "Filter Pump" does it seem to activate a pump that has nothing to do with the filter (it activates the right hand side single speed pump, mainly neck/back jets)?

2. Why when I have a dual speed pump (that sucks from the filters and pushes into the heater) do none of the pumps seem to have this capability on the control panel (and all jumpers are set to single)?

3. Why does the "Pump #1" button activate the dual speed pump that I would have thought was actually the "Filter Pump"?

4. Do you recommend any product to restore the dials which have yellowed?

TIA :)

Jason
 

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I am no gecko expert, in fact I have a serious case of dislike for gecko, but I'll tell you what I know, suspect, and recommend.
Your jumpers should reflect the equipment in the spa. Set them appropriately for your equipment.
So 2-speed pump, no circ pump, pressure switch on pump 1.
What is the usual purpose of the "Filter Pump" button?
No idea. I'd guess it should turn on low speed pump 1 if set for no circ pump, and some random pump if set for circ pump, since a circ pump is always on. Spas with a circ pump will often have multiple filters on different pumps. But it may turn on that same pump every time. I can't recall exactly.

Why when I have a dual speed pump
Jumpers are not correct if you have no circ pump.

Why does the "Pump #1" button activate the dual speed pump
Because the dual speed pump is always pump 1. After you change your jumpers it may turn on the low speed, as mentioned above.

Do you recommend any product to restore the dials which have yellowed?
Depends on the cause. Try a magic eraser, or a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and water and a scrubby sponge. Otherwise, get new ones.
 
Thank you very much @Mdragger88 for the hook up and @RDspaguy for the debugging! You were absolutely bang-on-the-money. I checked there was no circ pump, then changed those two jumpers and viola - a quiet spa when the jets are off and filtering, and all the buttons do something.

Did they let it out of the factory like this 10 years ago? One can only wonder...

Thank you both very much!

I'll try the magic eraser then 50/50 mix to see what might work on the controls in the coming days.
 
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@RDspaguy I have another one for you. Pressing the pump 2 button instantly activates pump 2. After precisely 20.0s it stops, and it waits another 1m40s to start again. It then runs for 20s, then stops for 1m40s. Ad infinitum.

I found a service manual to try and save asking you again for help but this condition wasn't mentioned. Any advise o wise one? I assume this is some kind of protection, maybe a flow switch, over voltage, over heating, etc?
 
Pump 1 is the 2 speed, pumps 2 and 3 are 1 speed. Issue is with pump 2.

I swapped the outputs from the Gecko to pump 2 and 3. The problem followed the physical pump, indicating the issue is pump related not board related.

I then switched them back (so the problem is on pump 2), and measured the voltage between ground and the high speed voltage pin for pump 2.

I found that the voltage from the board is on when I press the pump button (~219V when the pump is running for its 20 second spin and ~224V when it is "mysteriously off"), and the voltage is nil/negligible (~3.5V) when it is off. So the board is sending continuous power, the pump itself appears to be switching itself off.
 
Thanks.

I pulled the run cap from the pump, and tested it by using my Fluke 117, measured 19 uF (should have been 30 uF). I sourced an exact match spec cap (450V, 30 uF +/- 5%), which measured 28.5 uF out of the box. Installed that, and we have some objective progress. The on period has increased from 20s to 30s and the off period reduced from 1m40s to 45s. However the start/stop issue remains. I assume then the run cap was on its way out and the replacement has improved things.

I'm comfortable with electronics but not with mechanics, so my experience ends here - probably replacing the pump would be my next step as I'm not particularly good with mechanical stuff. I haven't been able to find a replacement centrifugal switch for a "EMG 90/2" though entire replacement pumps from the UK/EU are not too hard to find. Unless you tell me replacing the centrifugal switch is not particularly difficult, I think my best option is to swap out the pump and work on reconditioning the faulty one as a longer term project. Many thanks for your advice.
 
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@RDspaguy - many thanks for your help in May.

Question - on colder days the heater is can sometimes be a little underpowered to keep the temp steady. It will drop half a degree an hour on a cold day with people in it. It has the original 3.6KW heater installed. I note the circuit diagram says "3.6KW" for the 1 x 32A "flow through" heater.

Is it possible to put a higher KW heater in it than the 3.6KW it has? Or would I need to add a separate auxiliary heater?
 
Most low amp settings on spas disable the heater if the pump is on, because it has to or it will trip the breaker. In order to make it heat when the jets are going you would need to run a 3-phase power circuit on this unit.
 
Thanks so much! I wasn't actually talking about the low amp setting, I have that disabled and it happily draws ~34A with all the jets on and heater running, and electrician is happy my circuit supports that. I was just wondering if there is a way to put in a 6KW heater element or similar. I get the feeling I'd need to plumb in and trigger something like this: Balboa Auxiliary slave heater 3KW (~AUD1000) and run that on a separate circuit. Looking for the most affordable option. The cheapest being just trying to find a a 6KW element (~AUD400), eg Gecko GK9920100347 (I realize my board probably won't support that extra amperage nor be compatible with that model, just giving an example).
 
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