The cover is off, last year was my first year

A few things to mention ... doing a search I have read it can take up to a week to see CYA. Someone said with the sock method it took only 24 hours?? I also read that using the sock method it took some as long as a day to dissolve. Using a stocking my stabilizer was "gone" in under 2 hours. Did I do this wrong?
No worries. The main way to do it wrong is to put in in via the skimmer and then backwash it out into your street/backyard drain. It will show up before long because you put it in.
 
Hi, Debra -- Our condolences on the loss of your husband - I know that taking over stuff like this after a loss can be really hard, even a year or two or more.

You're on the right site. I had my hand held through an iron stain issue last year that then turned out to be an algae issue too. After a good SLAM, my pool looks amazing with very little effort on my part.

Can't wait to see the pictures after the SLAM!!
 
Hi, Debra -- Our condolences on the loss of your husband - I know that taking over stuff like this after a loss can be really hard, even a year or two or more.

You're on the right site. I had my hand held through an iron stain issue last year that then turned out to be an algae issue too. After a good SLAM, my pool looks amazing with very little effort on my part.

Can't wait to see the pictures after the SLAM!!
Momma4, thank you for your kind words. Yes, no one here has made me feel "too dumb". The search works great but sometimes conflicting views are confusing for a novice like me. I do wish I paid a little more attention in 7th grade chemistry class. I will post pictures when clear .... If I squint I can already make out an island of dead algae in the shallow end!!
 
I'm testing FC morning and evening keeping it at 5 with the pump running 24/7 at 3450 (gph?).
The pressure gauge has only increased 6 since my last backwash. Should I backwash anyway?
The water is now a "milky white". Should I be testing for anything else?
I can't believe the change in just 5 days ... thank you!
 

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You should backwash when you pressure rises 25% above the pressure reading from just after a backwash.

Focus testing just on FC during your SLAM. What is your SLAM level of FC per the chart? I believe 5 is below that level. What is your CYA?

Keeping a lower level of FC than the SLAM level will make the process much slower/not work well.
 
CYA showed up in last night's test and is 30. If reading the chart correctly I believe it shows 4-6. Should I raise to 6? (am I reading the chart correctly?)
I incorrectly thought backwashing was done when there was an increase of 10. When clean my gauge is at 16 .... I'll backwash now and keep an eye on it.
The pH is 7 and TA is quite low. Is it okay if I treat those or should I wait until the water is clear?
 
Good news on the CYA reading.

I see what you were looking at. On the FC/CYA Levels, you had selected liquid chlorine, but that is for your maintenance situation. For a SLAM, select the SLAM button and the FC level for a CYA of 30 will show 12. So you want to be at 12 as much as possible.

Do not do anything with pH or TA during the SLAM. Plenty of time to consider those after the water is perfectly clear. They aren’t hurting anything as they are.
 
No worries. I think there is a little bit of inconsistency in our materials. In the Pool School article SLAM Process when it mentions shock level FC, it is referring to the SLAM button on the FC/CYA Levels. The relationship is that SLAM stands for shock level and maintain.

Now that you’ve been in the SLAM for a bit, it’s a good time to re-read the article just as a refresher. It’s an article that can take several reads to take it all in and combine it with your newly gained real world experience.
 

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Yes, rereading SLAM tutorial and when I click on "here" it takes me to the Liquid Chlorine chart and not to the SLAM chart. I wish it would take me directly to the SLAM chart or there could be one more instruction to select SLAM when the page appears. Thank you for catching that for me ... much appreciated.

SLAM:

  • Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (see here for correct shock level)
 
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Thank you for pointing that out. We are looking into it.
 
The pool hasn't changed much and is still cloudy. I check chlorine every day at 8am and 8pm keeping it at 12. There's very little change overnight. This morning it dropped to 11 and I added 33 oz. of chlorinating liquid after a brief backwash and rinse. I'm brushing the pool several times each day. Last night's test was 8 and I added 133 oz. cl. The pool is a cool 74 degrees so I'm not missing swim time ... just need more patience wanting to see clear water. Any advice/words of wisdom appreciated. Do you need me to check anything else?
 
You should try this procedure. Adding DE to a sand filter. Following the procedure closely will help your filter’s efficiency at clearing the remaining cloudiness. It is not needed for regular maintenance with clear water. Nothing is wrong with your process, it’s just that sand filters are the slowest to clear a pool, especially at this last stage.

Add DE to a Sand Filter - Trouble Free Pool
 
The pool is chemically safe to swim in, but...

You also need to see to the bottom of the pool through the cloudiness, THEN it’s safe to swim in (the clarity is a visibility safety issue for seeing swimmers). The cloudiness at this point is just dead algae, which as long as that doesn’t gross you out, all is good as you work to clear it.
 
I've never used DE ... have read and re-read the directions. The local Walmart has 10 lbs. for $9.88 so I'm off to the store!!
I'll let you know what happens. Thank you
I started using the DE Saturday afternoon.
My clean filter gauge is a "shakey needle" at 16.
Two 1/4 cups (a total or 4 oz.) of DE raises the needle 1-2 pounds. The pressure gets up to 20 in about 4 hours. I backwash, rinse and repeat the 4 oz. of DE.
Should I cut back to 1/4 cup (2 oz.) or just continue this doseage?
Looking better ...
 

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