TF-100 will be here on Thursday

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I'm not sure I remember how to quote in line, so bear with me...

kcindc said:
You were adding liquid stablizer right? Just make sure to brush good and you should only wait 15-30 minutes.
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Yes and done. Finally got smart and am having my sons share that task.

kcindc said:
Your TA is high and that will cause your PH to constantly creep up. You should try to bring down your TA.
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Can I do this tonight? Or is it too soon to tinker?

kcindc said:
Have you thought about adding a SWG cell to your Aqua Logic Panel?
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Yes! Since I read my first article about salt water pools probably five or six years ago - before we even had a pool. I've just learned that we may have lucked into the perfect scenario to try it for ourselves because of the panel. Seems too good to be true, honestly.




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kimkats said:
STACY! I have been following your thread. The others had you very well covered so there has been no need for me to jump into the mix. THANKS Kim:cat:
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Again, thank you all. Even those of you who just follow along ready to help if the need arose. This is really a remarkable community.

kimkats said:
I do want to share this with you. It is what I give new pool owners. Some of it you might have already seen but I don't want to leave anything out. You asking what is next promoted me to share this with you:

Print these out:
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The bookmarks are done now. And cool. You just saved me so much time. I was going to make my own schedule and reference cards and laminate them. You did the hard part. Now I have an excuse to play with my laminator.

kimkats said:
Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

Kim:cat:
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Thanks, I'm sure there will be plenty more questions. I have a bunch already, but think it's probably best to go slow and deal with one thing at a time.





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Your water has very high potential to cause scaling in your pool. It is important for you to manage your CSI between -0.3 to 0 to prevent scaling in your pool. Poolmath will calculate your CSI for you after you enter all your test results. Tweak PH and TA to adjust the CSI number. Properly managing CSI with challenging fill water can add a decade to the life of your plaster.

More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
 
I've read the CS page a few times.
It looks like I'll be shooting for maintaining a zero CSI. Is that correct?

(I fully realize this will take time.)

My plan is to supplement the gentle aeration that we get from the spa spillover, with the biggest floating fountain that I can find running off of the side pressure cleaner port and dedicated pump.

According to the calculator, I need about three gallons of muriatic acid. I understand that adding it all at once would bottom out my pH, and cause the scaling to intensify. So, I am looking for guidance.

I was thinking I would add about a quart at a time in the evening, keep the fountain running (whenever the cleaner isn't), and repeat each time the pH has rebounded.

If my plan is valid and the pH rebounds daily, so I can dose it every night, I could be in balance in 12 days.

Last question... Should I conduct a full panel of the tests every night until I get it to that sweet spot?. My husband loves playing the chemist, and we are sharing the duties and learning together. I thought every night might be overkill, but said I'd ask the experts.




16,600 gallon, freeform, gunite and plaster pool/spa combo. Hayward SP3207EE pump, S310T sand filter, Century 1081 boost pump and Aqualogic panel.
 
CSI does not need to be zero (actually slightly negative is preferred I believe) . As long as you aren't nearing either end of "ok" it's not something to worry about. It's more like "Hey, you're getting pretty negative, let's pay attention why!".
 
The irony here is that the house has no water softener and we were planning on putting one in this weekend, but we decided to put our efforts toward the pool.

It's my understanding that softened water has the calcium largely removed.


16,600 gallon, freeform, gunite and plaster pool/spa combo. Hayward SP3207EE pump, S310T sand filter, Century 1081 boost pump and Aqualogic panel.
 
Does that apply to our pool already?
I assumed I had to wait to use the regular maintenance schedules until I had it all in balance.
For example, if I'm checking and adjusting pH daily, but only testing and adjusting CH and TA weekly...

These directions make it seem like I should add muriatic daily to lower pH regardless of the TA level and keep aerating...

Obviously there is something I am misunderstanding.

Maybe one of you could point it out?



16,600 gallon, freeform, gunite and plaster pool/spa combo. Hayward SP3207EE pump, S310T sand filter, Century 1081 boost pump and Aqualogic panel.
 

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We got this fountain running a little while ago without incident.


16,600 gallon, freeform, gunite and plaster pool/spa combo. Hayward SP3207EE pump, S310T sand filter, Century 1081 boost pump and Aqualogic panel.
 
You are in maintenance mode with the exception of getting you ta down. You may need to add acid daily but you may only have to add it every other day or so. It really depends on how fast your ph risea. As your ta comes down you will be adding acid less frequently but impossible to say how often.

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Okay I think I'm starting to get it, but I'm probably going to try to keep this thread going until we're completely out of the woods.


16,600 gallon, freeform, gunite and plaster pool/spa combo. Hayward SP3207EE pump, S310T sand filter, Century 1081 boost pump and Aqualogic panel.
 
Thanks to you all for a wonderful summer of "trouble-free pool-ing".

I have not been around because y'all made it so EASY.

Hubby and I talked yesterday about what to do with the pool over the winter. I told him I would come and ask the experts.

We live in central Texas and I'm thinking we don't have to do anything but maintain it. Hubby thought draining it was the way to go. I suspect that's a terrible idea... What if the dogs start running around in there? What if someone falls in the hole?

I'll look around for other threads now - but I wanted to revive this one just to say thanks again. We could not have done this without you.


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Do not drain it......that is not good for the plaster to have it sit long term without water.

Like Bob said it will be super easy to maintain it as it cooler. Do a full test to make sure it is balanced. Then keep a log of your FC levels. You will start to see the use of the FC go down as it gets cooler.

I do want to give you a heads up for the Spring........keep a CLOSE eye on the water temps as the air starts going up. As the water temps get closer to 60 and up you will see the need for FC go up.

I am SO glad to hear it has been easy street for you! :hug:

Kim:kim:
 
I can not believe I didn't reply to you two. I know I read the comments... I flaked.

We did take your advice and just left the pool open all winter. Easy peasy to maintain, and we ran the heater (which wasn't even supposed to work according to the previous owner - BONUS) during warm weather spells and all through spring.
Our heater died eventually, but we got really lucky finding replacement parts online and it was back up and running for about $500.

I know I keep gushing about TFP.
I can't help it.
I love this place.
#sorrynotsorry
 

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