Peetmj

Member
Sep 20, 2023
7
Houston, TX
Hi all! Found this thread via a friend's recommendation. My wife and I (we have one small child) are in the middle of building a pool/outdoor kitchen in TX and I really hope having this forum is beneficial to learning from others and hoping to gain as much insight into everything that being a pool owner entails. I apologize in advance because I may ask silly questions but I tend to be thorough so please do not take my ignorance as anything other than wanting to make sure I get it right as much as possible.

General Pool Dimensions:

35' x 20'
Surface area - 765 sq ft
Pool Inside Perimeter - 126.5
Interior Area - 1400
Depth 4ft - 8ft
Total Volume - 26.5k gals
Spa - 7'x7'
 
Make sure you don't purchase a tab chlorinator, UV or ozone system. You want a variable speed pump with a salt water chlorine generator. If your pool builder pushes back, tell them you're the customer and that's what you want.
 
For Houston - your swim seasons will be longer than most of the rest of the country, and you will never really close the pool. The tab chlorinator will quickly mess up other chemicals (esp CYA) over time leading to a cycle of drain and fill and drain and fill over the life. The SWG will produce chlorine only on a continuous basis (as long as the pump is running) until the water temp is about 60 deg then you really won't need a lot of chlorine and can use liquid chlorine until the temp comes back.

You will have intense UV (speaking from experience in Houston). I have a IC40 (a 40k gallon rated SWG) on my 10k pool, and in the heat of Houston summer this year was running 30% with a pump that runs 24/7, even with high CYA. You will need 4-5ppm per day of chlorine in summer peak, even with a high CYA.

Other reasons for SWG:
- can go on vacation easily
- delivers chlorine continuously (see pump comment) so not having a spike and fall and spike and fall
- doesn't mess up CYA or CH (if using trichlor or dichlor tabs)
- dont have to lug jugs or pounds of tabs
- etc.

If you have a variable speed pump, get a larger one. The larger the pump, the more efficient you can run at low speeds (more water at less rpm, comparatively) and save a LOT on electricity. I run my 3hp VS pump 24/7 for about 15-20$ a month, as it uses 74 watts at my "minimum SWG flow" rpm (1000 rpm). At medium speed (2400 rpm) it uses 1200 watts. Hence, the electricity used is not linear but exponential for pumps and speed.

Marry a SWG at least 2x your pool (hopefully 3x - I would go for one of the 60k gallon rated ones), a larger VS pump, and a large filter, and you have a very nice pool setup. Add automation (and make sure they all work together) and you have very fine control of the pool.

see SWG How It Works - Further Reading
 
For Houston - your swim seasons will be longer than most of the rest of the country, and you will never really close the pool. The tab chlorinator will quickly mess up other chemicals (esp CYA) over time leading to a cycle of drain and fill and drain and fill over the life. The SWG will produce chlorine only on a continuous basis (as long as the pump is running) until the water temp is about 60 deg then you really won't need a lot of chlorine and can use liquid chlorine until the temp comes back.

You will have intense UV (speaking from experience in Houston). I have a IC40 (a 40k gallon rated SWG) on my 10k pool, and in the heat of Houston summer this year was running 30% with a pump that runs 24/7, even with high CYA. You will need 4-5ppm per day of chlorine in summer peak, even with a high CYA.

Other reasons for SWG:
- can go on vacation easily
- delivers chlorine continuously (see pump comment) so not having a spike and fall and spike and fall
- doesn't mess up CYA or CH (if using trichlor or dichlor tabs)
- dont have to lug jugs or pounds of tabs
- etc.

If you have a variable speed pump, get a larger one. The larger the pump, the more efficient you can run at low speeds (more water at less rpm, comparatively) and save a LOT on electricity. I run my 3hp VS pump 24/7 for about 15-20$ a month, as it uses 74 watts at my "minimum SWG flow" rpm (1000 rpm). At medium speed (2400 rpm) it uses 1200 watts. Hence, the electricity used is not linear but exponential for pumps and speed.

Marry a SWG at least 2x your pool (hopefully 3x - I would go for one of the 60k gallon rated ones), a larger VS pump, and a large filter, and you have a very nice pool setup. Add automation (and make sure they all work together) and you have very fine control of the pool.

see SWG How It Works - Further Reading
That's great information I greatly appreciate it because I probably have not looked closely enough at the components as I should have because we have been focusing on the finishing materials and kitchen.
 

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This is what is on the contract but we just revised to include saltwater generator so obviously removed the chlorinator just not sure if that would have caused anything else to change. But please let me know your thoughts:

General Pool Dimensions:

35' x 20'
Surface area - 765 sq ft
Pool Inside Perimeter - 126.5
Interior Area - 1400
Depth 4ft - 8ft
Total Volume - 26.5k gals
Spa - 7'x7'


Filter - 420 Cartridge
Primary Filter Pump - Intelliflo 3.95 THP 230V VSF
Booster Pump - HydroBoost Energy Efficient
Pool Heater - Pentair mastertemp 400K BTU
Blower - Silence Blower
Cleaner - Pentair LS Racer
Pool Computer - Easy Touch 8
Controller - Screen Logic
SWG - Pentair Intellichlor IC40 (just added)
Pool Lighting - 3 Color LED
Spa - 1 Color LED Microbrite
Pool Control Valves - Pentair
Surface Skimmers - 2 Bermuda skimmers white throat
Low Voltage Transformer - yes (2)--- (4) color LED Lights with (2) transformers
3 Pool Drains
2 Spa Drains
Automatic Fill
Overflow
Gate Latch - Magna Latch
Pool Return Inlets - Yes
Cleaner Line - Yes
 
I would raise the IC to the IC60

Also be aware that the EasyTouch is being sunsetted by pentair at end of this year. It’s still a great system but will no longer be supported by pentair as they try to move everyone to their new Intellicenter lineup


 
I would dump the cleaner and booster pump in favor of a robot. You'll use considerably more electricity for an inferior cleaning.

I'd also step up to the 520 filter (only $150 more) to have the longest duration between cleanings.

Is the shallow depth (4ft) measured to water line or to coping?
 
I would dump the cleaner and booster pump in favor of a robot. You'll use considerably more electricity for an inferior cleaning.

I'd also step up to the 520 filter (only $150 more) to have the longest duration between cleanings.

Is the shallow depth (4ft) measured to water line or to coping?
We debated that early on but just really do not want to have to mess with putting the robot in and out. I know it sounds very lazy but just preferred the ease of the cleaner. I will look into the filter though because that is something I would consider. Shallow depth is 4 ft to the waterline. They originally had 3.5 ft but I didnt not see the need because we have a splash pad area already in the design (8'x9') so the actual width in part of the pool is wider than 20'.

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consider with a cleaner you will have a whole other pump and plumbing system to maintain in addition to the cleaner in the pool … and you will still have to take it in and out while swimming.

Robots can stay in pool too until you take out for swimming.

Lots of threads on here about robot va cleaner (and robots now come cordless!). People tend to be passionate about them one way or the other….
 
I leave my robot in basically year-round (lots of trees.) Might take it out if we're swimming for longer than an hour, but it sits happily in a corner if need be and the cord is much thinner and less tangled than a cleaner hose...

A cleaner will also pick up large leaves, sometimes. A robot will pick up dirt, pollen, leaves, etc infinitely better using 10-20x less energy.

My happiest pool owner days were installing the SWCG and pitching the Polaris booster pump and cleaner into the garbage.
 
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All good information and I will consider a change but just not sure yet. Anyone know what change I will need to make to my gas meter prior to pool install?
Take a picture of your gas meter tag. If it states 400 or higher you are fine. If not, normally the gas company will install a new higher rated meter for free because they assume you will be using more gas.
IMG_4532.jpeg

I have a booster pump and pressure side cleaner. I only remove it if there are more than 4 people in the pool.
I am holding out for the cordless robot technology. Available now but not perfected so I just hang on with the pressure side cleaner for a couple of more years untill a reliable cordless robot is on the market.

Definitely move to the Pentair Intellicenter Automation - no sense purchasing a 20 year technology and one that is soon to be obsolete.
 
Hey neighbor, this is good place to start:


Here are my suggestions/recommendations:

Primary Filter Pump - Intelliflo 3.95 THP 230V VSF
What model #? Get the IntelliFlo3 011075.

Filter - 420 Cartridge
Upsize to the 520.

Booster Pump - HydroBoost Energy Efficient
Cleaner - Pentair LS Racer,
Delete both and get a robot.

Pool Heater - Pentair mastertemp 400K BTU
Have them install an external bypass.

Pool Computer - Easy Touch 8
Controller - Screen Logic
Get IntelliCenter with the load center and built in SWCG transformer. No sense buying discontinued/obsolete equipment for a new build.

SWG - Pentair Intellichlor IC40 (just added)
Get the IC60. It's a much better value than the IC40 and more suitable for your pool size and our climate.

Pool Lighting - 3 Color LED
Spa - 1 Color LED Microbrite
Are the pool lights MicroBrite as well? You want them all to be the same. 3 MicroBrites in a pool that size probably isn't enough. Your pool sketch shows lights on three of the four sides of the pool. You want all the lights pointed away from the house or main seating area. You also want to add a light for your tanning shelf. Jandy has a good lighting guide:


Low Voltage Transformer - yes (2)--- (4) color LED Lights with (2) transformers
Why have two transformers, unless for some reason you wanted the spa and pool lights to be different colors (which would look odd)?

really do not want to have to mess with putting the robot in and out.
Takes about 60 seconds. The robot uses practically no electricity and will clean much better than a pressure side cleaner. I use mine about once a week.

Shallow depth is 4 ft to the waterline.
That's a great depth for the shallow end.