- Jun 2, 2022
- 93
- Pool Size
- 10000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello
I’m trying to make sure I’m getting the best results, so I’m trying to refine my techniques. Using a Taylor K2006 test kit , Taylor 9198 tubes (one for each test except CYA and Ph), magnetic stirring bars and a magnetic mixer. I clean the tubes and stirring bars with pool water before and after each test. I just read about cleaning reagent bottle tips with a cloth before dropping.
My questions:
1). Saw one post about using bleach to clean tubes and stirring bars—is that necessary?
2). Another poster labeled their tubes and stirring bars and used the same tube/bars each day for the different tests.—does that lead to better accuracy?
3). Another post talked about the FC FAS-Dodgers test and said to subtract one drop from the total drops necessary to take the solution to clear. Is the actual FC level a multiple of the total drops required to clear, or total drops minus one?
Thanks!
I’m trying to make sure I’m getting the best results, so I’m trying to refine my techniques. Using a Taylor K2006 test kit , Taylor 9198 tubes (one for each test except CYA and Ph), magnetic stirring bars and a magnetic mixer. I clean the tubes and stirring bars with pool water before and after each test. I just read about cleaning reagent bottle tips with a cloth before dropping.
My questions:
1). Saw one post about using bleach to clean tubes and stirring bars—is that necessary?
2). Another poster labeled their tubes and stirring bars and used the same tube/bars each day for the different tests.—does that lead to better accuracy?
3). Another post talked about the FC FAS-Dodgers test and said to subtract one drop from the total drops necessary to take the solution to clear. Is the actual FC level a multiple of the total drops required to clear, or total drops minus one?
Thanks!