Test results of TF-100 *images added*

[Jackslap]

So, got my kit which is awesome and these are my results:

FC .5
CC .5
TC 1
pH 7.8
T/A 90
CH 190
CYA Less than 20

What do I need to fix and how?!!

 

[Richard320]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Next stop http://www.poolcalculator.com/

Be sure to go to the bottom and enter the surface, the size, and whether you use SWG or not. That will affect the recommended levels.

Assuming, of course, you've browsed through Pool School already.

 

[duraleigh]

Re: Test results of TF-100

What do I need to fix and how?!!

Tell us how your water looks right now and how you have been chlorinating the pool to this point.

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Test results of TF-100

The first thing is to get a little more chlorine in the pool right away. I suggest adding 2 ppm of chlorine each evening until it has been 24 hours after you added CYA.

The second thing is to raise CYA up to the 40 to 50 range.

You can use the Pool Calculator to calculate amounts, and there is lots of good reading in Pool School on things like suggested chemicals.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Your FC will burn off in the sun because its low and your CYA is low. You will get an algae bloom or worse if you keep it there. Bring the CYA up to about 30 and your FC to about 10 for a couple days as a shock treatment. The sooner, the better.

Bump the alk level another 20 to 30 points. The CYA you add will need to be subtracted from your alk reading. This will help you to buffer pH changes

The CH is a bit low. Bringing it up to about 250 is suggested to help discourage the water from pulling it out of the plaster.

Use the pool calculator (http://www.poolcalculator.com) to determine the amounts of baking soda, calcium and CYA.

Scott

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Bump the alk level another 20 to 30 points. The CYA you add will need to be subtracted from your alk reading. This will help you to buffer pH changes

Unless you are using trichlor tablets for chlorine, I wouldn't raise TA at all. TA at 90 is fine, if anything a little high, unless you are using trichlor tablets. Also, there is no point in worrying about subtracting CYA, or any of that stuff. The TA test result directly from the test kit is the important number.

I would wait to do CH until everything else is taken care of.

 

[Jackslap]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Awesome replies guys. I'm still new at this. I've owned the pool for 8 months but I'm still a bit clueless. The kit is WAY better than the lame-o thing I was using before.

@Duraleigh- Water is crystal clear. There are very small pockmark black dots occasionally located throughout the pool. I'm guessing algae deep down in plaster pores.



I've been chlorinating with 6% bleach as I read that as a recommendation here. It's really been just trial and error. I had noticed BEFORE I learned anything at pool school that my chlorine burns off fast. I now understand that is because the low CYA. I KNOW the previous owner didn't take care of the pool for YEARS. He took care of it off and on if he had an event or something etc. but it was green for so long (I knew the guy, even worked for him for a time). When he was putting it up for sale, he started taking care of it a bit but it was just massive amounts of shocking and clarifier. My filters are old and toast, they need to be replaced. Money money money.

So......I've been adding chlorine daily albiet not quite accurately according to calcs. I need to raise CYA so the chlorine hangs out a bit longer. Raising Alk was suggested but then over-ruled because I'm not using tablets. Then worry about Calcium. Do I have a good handle on the suggestions as of yet?

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Test results of TF-100

You are doing great!

 

[duraleigh]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Do I have a good handle on the suggestions as of yet?

Pretty much. Understanding that the need to keep chlorine in the pool is your single most important task.

Following Jason's post about adding 2ppm daily (which usually works out roughly close to a small jug of Clorox) until you get your CYA dosed in the pool to about 40-50 will keep you in very good shape.

Then, (repeating Jason's advice) 24 hours after the CYA goes in, bring the FC up to 3-6ppm and KEEP IT THERE all summer.

You can tweak the TA and CH down the road if it becomes necessary after you have taken care of the FC and CYA.

Observe the black dots this Spring....they may go entirely away if your FC level is constant.

 

[Jackslap]

Re: Test results of TF-100

O.K. Some new questions have arisen since last week when I started all this. I know that CC being low is desireable correct? I have tested my water daily for about 4-5 days and after adding an initial BUNCH of bleach, my CC levels have gone down to zero. I do the powder test for FC, then add the other chemical which does not turn my test water back to pink. It stays clear. The TF100 says this means I have not CC's. That is a good thing right?

As for my FC, it has been hovering around 4ppm this whole time. I guess I have not added enough to reach that 10ppm level previously suggested. I have SUCH a problem dumping all that bleach in there. Psychologically it freaks me out, because well.......it's bleach. Secondly it's like watching dollars dump into my water. :lol: Seriously though, is it bad to only have ran my FC up to 4 instead of 10? Have I essentially wasted time and money so far by NOT doing exactly as advised?

My FC just does not hang around that long if I don't constantly dump in a bunch of bleach. I'm adding 182 ounces per day and it isn't even summer yet, when the sun will REALLY be killing us. At 3.50 per bottle this is adding up. I need to get my CYA up right? Do I buy some brand name thing labled "stabilizer?" Or is there an alternative product to use? How much do I add at any one time. Someone is probably just going to point me to that pool calc right? I'm just not sure I'm on the right track. I can do the calcs myself if I know I'm thinking right.

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Yes, the sample staying clear at that point means CC is zero and that is a very good thing.

FC around 4 is find as long as the water is clear and sparkly and there is no sign of algae. This somewhat depends on your CYA level. 4 is fine as long as CYA is above 10 and below 50.

Yes, you need to get your CYA level up. That will help your chlorine last longer. CYA is sold under various names: stabilizer, conditioner, cyanuric acid. This is the only pool chemical which you pretty much have to by from a pool store or the pool department at a big box store.

 

[Jackslap]

Re: Test results of TF-100

So, everything is going swimmingly....like you've never heard that pun before.

My FC levels are hovering at about 4 for the past 5 days. I bought some CYA and added enough to raise me up to about 30. Since that was a little on the low side compared to what was suggested here, last night I added enough more that I should be sitting at about 40 today. I will check that again this afternoon when I get off work. The pool is looking way good. I thought the water was pretty Dang clear before, it probably really was. But now it's REALLY crystal clear. I still need to put money into a good vaccuum but that is for a later time. Right now I'll just keep stealing my dads once a week!

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Test results of TF-100

Congratulations

 

[Jackslap]

Re: Test results of TF-100

So I figured I'd share some pictures of these "black spots" that I've been dealing with. Even though I've had the pool at really good levels all week I'm still dealing with what I was dealing with before. Believe me the water looks great, but this plaster needs help I think.

I was told that it was re-plastered in 2005, but I think it was a crappy job. I'm not sure exactly how to judge such a thing, but there are certain spots where the plaster has drip marks, some areas are already showing signs of wearing through. On the whole it's probably not the worst you all have ever seen, but there are these small recesses where these black dots like to hide. Now, some of these are palm tree pod marks I know that for sure. But some of them are not. The pictures will probably not do them justice so I'll label which is which. Also, the rust spots on the steps......I've tried the whole vitamin C tablets thing but it didn't really work. I suppose I could say that they've gotten a bit lighter in appearance, but no major noticeable fading. What can I do for this stuff? You probably can't notice perfectly, but the non-pod spots are only down inside these small recesses. The pool vac runs right over them without phasing them at all.

The palm tree spots: Bottom left shows them well

Now they are near center:

These are not pod spots, but perhaps some algae?:

Best shot of NON tree pod spots:

 

[Jackslap]

I'm bumping this because I didn't want to start a new thread with the same pics. I need advice for those spots. Additional information. I have small black algae spots around my underwater return jets. Nothing TOO drastic, but it certainly is algae. What gives? I thought since my FC levels were killer high for a week, and since they are now hovering around normal, that I wouldn't have these spots anymore.

 

[Richard320]

I'm bumping this because I didn't want to start a new thread with the same pics. I need advice for those spots. Additional information. I have small black algae spots around my underwater return jets. Nothing TOO drastic, but it certainly is algae. What gives? I thought since my FC levels were killer high for a week, and since they are now hovering around normal, that I wouldn't have these spots anymore.

Black algae spots are sorta "dug in." You'll need to attack them with a wire brush, to let the chlorine work on fresh layers. Daily wouldn't be too often.

The organic stains will probably fade away after a few months of chlorine and sunlight to bleach them out.

Patience.