Test my water with

Your numbers are all high! Your cya is too high so you need to replace some water I would say 30-40% but others might say different.

Your ph is high you need to bring it down then your TA should come down some with it.

Also your FC is on the low side too it needs to come up. Use the pool calculator to tell you how much of what to use.
 
The safest and most effective way to reduce the CYA level in a fiberglass pool is to do a series of partial drains and refills. You can safely drain the pool to about a foot below the skimmer, refill, filter for a few hours to mix the fresh water, and repeat this about 4-5 times then retest your CYA to see how low you got it. You want to aim for CYA between 30-50 ppm. You should also stop using chlorine tablets and switch to an unstabilized chlorine like bleach so your pool does not become overstabilized again
 
When you run a test for bromine, but have chlorine, it will test positive. Also, when you run a test for chlorine, but have bromine, it will test positive. Generally, the levels you get will be about twice as high for the bromine (about 2.25 actually).

If you are using chlorine, you don't have bromine in your pool, unless you specifically added it, which would be weird. You don't need to run tests for bromine if you have a chlorine pool and vice versa. The number you get will just be wrong, as the two tests cross-react.

If you have bromine in the pool at all, and you add chlorine, the chlorine will produce bromine anyways, so you (generally) can't have both.
 
Ok i got a new test kit the Taylor K-2005
My numbers
FC-1.5
TC-3
PH 8.0
TA 190
CH-250
CYA I could see the black dot untill i fill all the way to the top.
I am at the point that i don't know what to do.
I am getting brown stains again.
I clean vac. and clean my filter and add bleach and tablets.
 

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Re: New test kit

Sounds like you need to add more bleach and CYA.

Your pH is too high and so is the TA.

You should use muratic acid to lower pH and then aerate to help bring TA down. The pH will want to rise during the process so you'll have to bring it down again and repeat as necesary till you get proper range, 80-120 on TA. Keep checking your numbers.

Your pH will then be easier to manage.

OOOO~
I see it's a fiberglass so don't know if any of the advice I gave matters much for fiberglass... Someone else should be around shortly to add more or correct me if I'm wrong. :mrgreen:
 
Re: New test kit

hairco said:
I just got the Taylor K-2005
This was your first mistake, the kit you want is the K-2006!
and my test numbers is
FC 1.5
TC 3
This means you have 1.5 ppm combined chlorine. You need to shock with bleach to about 15 ppm. Problem with you test kit is that there is no easy way to test chloirne levels that high since it only goes to 10 ppm! This is why we recommend the K-2006 or the TF100. If you would listen to our advice it would really make things easier on yourself.
pH 8.0
Forgot how many gallons your pool is. If you put that info into your sig it would be helpful but you can use the acid demand test in your kit to figure out how much acid you need to lower the pH to about 7.6
TA 190
Get our TA down to around 80 ppm if you are using bleach. Read the Pool School article on lowering TA! do this after shocking and getting rid of the combined chlorine.
CH 250
No problem here...This number is fine no matter what kind of pool you have.
CYA It took filling all the way to the top to not be able to see the black dot.
This means your CYA is too low. You want to be between 30-50 ppm. Once you get it up there your chloirne will hold better and a lot of your problems will end. I guess this means you did the drains and refills, right? I remember that your CYA was through the roof before. It's much easier to raise CYA than to lower it. You can either just add some to the pool or use your trichlor tablets until the CYA gets to about 40 ppm and then switch to bleach.
I am at my witze end.Please help? Thanks
No reason to be at wits end. You have made a lot of progress and your pool is not really that 'off'' right now. It just needs a bit of tweaking!

Also, you stared a new thread instead of continuing your original one so I merged the new thread into the old one so there is continuity. Otherwise we really don't have the history of your pool all in one place!
 
hairco said:
I was in my pool today still cleaning & i saw something around the suction outlet & the pressure outlet
that look like black algae.How can i get it off. I tried but wount come off.
were they round black spots or more like black pinpoints that might be slightly raised? The two of these are different with different causes and treatments.
 
hairco said:
I was told that you cannot use M acid in a friberglass pool?
Is that true?
Don't know who told you that but it is TOTALLY UNTRUE!!!!!! (Not only am I in the industry but I own a fiberglass pool!)
Also,, to avoid possible confusion it would be better to write out the whole word muriatic instead of just putting M. In some of your early posts it was hard to know what you were talking about since you just said you had too much acid in your pool and we didn't know if you meant muriatic acid, cyanuric acid, or ascorbic acid which are VERY DIFFERENT chemicals.
 
hairco said:
It is smooth and all around the jets It look like where the jets are attach to the wall there is a white cholking or a seal that is around the jet on the wall .It is not on the jets just that little seal or what ever you call it.
Doesn't sound like black algae to me.
 
I am off to get my muratic acid.We have had rain so here are my numbers which hasn't change much.
FC 2
TC 5
CC 3
pH 8.0
TA 180
CH 20
CYA 0
I did the pool calacation and it reads that i need 43 oz. of Muratic acid & 1qt.3.0z of bleach.
Do i need to wait on the bleach and do the Muratic acid?
I beleive i read that you slowly pour the muratic acid in frount of the returns.
So when i do that when do i check my water again? Is there anything else i need to do? Thanks
 

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