Test levels - beginner

[MCF50]

Water Temp: 61
PH: 7.6
CYA / FC: 40 / 7.5 (how can this be - I have set SWCG to zero output).
TA: 50ppm - low
Calcium Hardness: 120 - low
Salt PPM: 3600ppm

So path forward?

 

[MCF50]

Also. When testing CYA is the reading she the black dot starts to disappear or when the black dot is just no longer visible. From what I have read it looks like I need to add some stabilizer. 2lbs based on calculator to get it to 70 since I’m running my swcg.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Your FC going up could be a couple of things:

• Testing error - How confident are you in your FC of 7, or your FC of 4 you mentioned yesterday?
• Timing - When did you actually turn your IC40 off, and how long ago did you get your FC of 4 reading? This time of year your chlorine demand is very low and you can produce more chlorine than you are used to in the summer months. For reference I turned my IC40 down a few months ago to 10%, and now down to 5%.
• Chlorine from another source - Do you have any floaters, in-line chlorinators, or any other chlorine products you have added?
• Are you sure your IC40 is off? Does it say 0% in pool and spa modes? Have you looked at the actual unit to make sure it is not producing?

 

[ajw22]

Your TA is fine. Don’t use any chemicals to raise it.

CYA 40 is fine this time of year. Good chance your SWG will shutdown due to low water temperature. You can raise your CYA in March.

Only change I would do is raise your CH to 250 ppm.

What is your CSI?

 

[MCF50]

Sorry, what is CSI? Also, what best way to raise CH? Thanks!

 

[MCF50]

No other source of Chlorine. Chlorine Feeder is completely off. SWCG confirmed off with no lights on.

 

[MCF50]

Sorry, what is CSI? Also, what best way to raise CH? Thanks!

Calculator says add 16lbs of Calcium Chloride....DAng.

 

[MCF50]

CSI is minus 1.14...so it looks like I need to raise Calcium Hardness to around 400. What is best/cheapest product availalble? I will add 1/2 of recommended dose and then a couple days later add other 1/2.

 

[ajw22]

Don’t raise your CH to 400 due to CSI. Let your pH be around 7.8 which will raise your CSI.

Your CSI is low due to the cold water temperatures. That will fix itself come Spring. Raising your CH will come to bite you when the water warms up and as your water builds CH from evaporation.

 

[MCF50]

Shouldn't I raise CH some?? I don't want to hurt pool/materials/equipment. What I don't understand is why it's so low. I'm in Houston. Hard water. I did just think of something. It is possible the idiot that built my home tied our water softener into the outside lines as well. Hmmm....I wouldn't put it past the lazy .........

 

[ajw22]

Yup, raise CH to 250 not 400.

Have you tested the pH, TA, CH of your fill water?

 

[MCF50]

Thanks. What is best/cheapest product to raise CH to 250-300ppm? Lots of options on Amazon...hate to go to Leslie's Pools and spend twice as much.

 

[MCF50]

Yup, raise CH to 250 not 400.

Have you tested the pH, TA, CH of your fill water?

Just checked outside faucet and inside faucet. NEITHER showed any calcium hardness. My home builder is a true freaking idiot. So I assume this means I will always be adding stuff.....or I have to increase hardness out of softener.

 

[ajw22]

Really it is better having soft fill water. You will get a lot of evaporation in the summer and your CH would rise with hard fill water. You would end up with a high CH problem in a few years with hard fill water.

I have never needed to shop for CH and cannot help with products.

 

[MCF50]

Really it is better having soft fill water. You will get a lot of evaporation in the summer and your CH would rise with hard fill water. You would end up with a high CH problem in a few years with hard fill water.

I have never needed to shop for CH and cannot help with products.

I won't have hard water fill from autofill because the idiot builder tied the outside lines into the water softener which has no calcium hardness...so I guess I will be adding CH regularly.

 

[ajw22]

CH does not get consumed. Once you get your CH up to a good level it will stay there unless you drain and replace water.

 

[MCF50]

CH does not get consumed. Once you get your CH up to a good level it will stay there unless you drain and replace water.

Ahhhh...thanks. But what about using an autfill that is very soft? Won't it bring downhardness over time?

 

[ajw22]

Ahhhh...thanks. But what about using an autfill that is very soft? Won't it bring downhardness over time?

Autofill is replacing water lost from evaporation. The H2O evaporates but the CH stays in the pool. The autofill replaces the lost H2O and the CH is still in the water.

 

[MCF50]

Autofill is replacing water lost from evaporation. The H2O evaporates but the CH stays in the pool. The autofill replaces the lost H2O and the CH is still in the water.

Thank you so much. That makes sense. I am all new to this....based on calculator I should add 19lbs to get CH to 250 from 120. I will add about 10 and give it a couple days. I am learning less is more with these darn pools!!!! Now hopefully we will have a nice sunny day or 2 and my FC will drop to 4-5. Thanks!!!!!

 

[ajw22]

From Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool

CH – Calcium Hardness

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.