Test Kit question upon switch from chlorine to SWG

[kllentini]

Hey all - I was a new pool owner 4 summers ago and we’re just finishing a renovation and a conversion from chlorine to a salt water system. This website was a tremendous help in bringing me up to speed with the old pool, and I expect it will continue to be a great resource with the new pool.

For the new SWG pool it’s a vinyl liner with about 22,000 gallons, DE filter and Hayward TCell 940 w/ Hayward AquaRite 900. First question I have is - I’ve been using the Taylor K-2006 with the old pool and although it has instructions, it looks like it didn’t come with the fill tube and reagents for the Salt Test. I’m assuming I can get what I need for that test but does the AquaRite and TCell 940 handle those values? My pool contractor has explained we need to add a bulk amount of salt at startup and he will give me a tutorial on the SWG system, but I’m just starting to get my ducks in a row before we start to get everything running on Friday.

 

[Homebrewale]

Buy a Taylor K-1766 test kit.

 

[Newdude]

You need a k-1766 add on kit for salt.

Check the dates on the k2006 bottles if they are originals. Tftestkits.net has a TF100 pro salt kit with a fancy case that includes a smart stir if you're looking for everything one shot. Or replace the parts and add a k1766.

 

[IceShadow]

The SWG will report what it thinks the salt level is, but it's not always correct. The kit recommended above is the one referenced in the lid of the K-2006c, and adding it will give you a drop-based way to test salt levels too.

 

[Mdragger88]

Get the k1766 & test your Salt level BEFORE adding any salt
You maybe be very surprised by how much u already have in the water.
The readout of the swg should not be solely relied upon although u must still keep the system “happy”.

 

[kllentini]

Thanks for the info, I just ordered that add on kit. What levels do I continue to test - pH and FC or I ignore the FC and focus on the salt?

 

[IceShadow]

You'll still want to check FC to get your run time and percentages dialed in. Plus, bather load, weather, etc. can affect FC usage.

 

[Mdragger88]

* test Fc,cc daily w/ the fas/dpd test while u get things dialed in so u can ensure you are maintaining target based on the FC/CYA Levels
Dose to target w/ liquid chlorine & allow the swg to maintain- if it doesn’t, dose again & adjust the swg runtime/percentage.
They are great maintainers but they take time to produce fc so u don’t want something growing in that time.
Once u get it maintaining you can go to every few days. Your swg will need adjusting as temps & uv exposure increase.

Depending upon how fast your ph rises you may need to test that daily as well.

Ta - you need to know this value to adjust ph correctly

cya, ch, & salt tests are less frequent as they don’t fluctuate too much unless u have alot of water being exchanged or u add something that increases them/need to make adjustments. So monthly monitoring is a good rule of thumb.
A note about cya -
Starting w/ 60 cya in the lower uv times is fine but you will increase that to the 70’s/80’s as the temps/ uv increase as well since it is sunscreen for the fc your swg produces. Always follow the FC/CYA Levels

 

[kllentini]

Hi so my new SWG pool (vinyl liner with about 22,000 gallons, DE filter and Hayward TCell 940 w/ Hayward AquaRite 900) pool pump, filter and chlorinater have been up and running since Friday. Since Friday I’ve added 8 bags of salt (not all at once), as the AquaRite manual said I would probably need 12+ bags to start. I’m waiting for my K1766 test kit to come tomorrow but I just decided to test the other levels:

FC - 0
pH -8
CYA -0

I guess I was expecting to see at least some FC, but I’m not really sure with this new system? I’m running the SWG at 50%, the “check salt” and “inspect cell” light have come on intermittently - they go off soon after I’ve added some salt but then come on again as the digital reading drops below 2700. Am I on the right rack with this? And finally what do people recommend for pH decreased - liquid muriatic acid, powder “pH down” or something else? As always thanks to anyone in advance who has any input.

 

[Mdragger88]

If this is a fresh fill then u definitely won’t have any cya or fc.
Until u have the correct amount of salt the swg likely won’t produce either. Just turn it off until u have tested the salt & added the appropriate amount.
Muriatic acid is preferred for ph control as it doesn’t contain sulfates (which can damage your swg)
You need about 70ppm of cya when all is said & done but creeping up on it is ideal, just like with salt. If u overshoot you’ll have to replace water.
So add enough now via the sock method to get 40ppm. Then re test in a day or so & add whatever is needed.
Use PoolMath to calculate amounts.
Then proceed to chlorinate immediately with liquid chlorine follow the FC/CYA Levels.
Use the manually chlorinated side of the chart until your swg is up & running properly. U will need to manually chlorinate every day until u get the swg going.
Swg’s are great maintainers but take time to produce fc. You don’t want nasties growing in that time.

For all of these additions pay attention & test your actual results- if this is a new pool your volume calculation could be off & you may need to adjust volume based on your actual results.

 

[markayash]

If this is a fresh fill then u definitely won’t have any cya or fc.
Until u have the correct amount of salt the swg likely won’t produce either. Just turn it off until u have tested the salt & added the appropriate amount.
Muriatic acid is preferred for ph control as it doesn’t contain sulfates (which can damage your swg)
You need about 70ppm of cya when all is said & done but creeping up on it is ideal, just like with salt. If u overshoot you’ll have to replace water.
So add enough now via the sock method to get 40ppm. Then re test in a day or so & add whatever is needed.
Use PoolMath to calculate amounts.
Then proceed to chlorinate immediately with liquid chlorine follow the FC/CYA Levels.
Use the manually chlorinated side of the chart until your swg is up & running properly. U will need to manually chlorinate every day until u get the swg going.
Swg’s are great maintainers but take time to produce fc. You don’t want nasties growing in that time.

For all of these additions pay attention & test your actual results- if this is a new pool your volume calculation could be off & you may need to adjust volume based on your actual results.

Definitely get some type of chlorine in it asap.
I agree leave the swg off until you know your salt level. Also don’t run it while adding salt, could get a concentration of salt and damage the cell

 

[kllentini]

Ok thanks I mostly follow this but I have two follow ups. What product should I get to add cya? I can follow the SWG instruction manual recommendations to add the suggested amount of salt, but how do I know when it’s actually up and running properly?

 

[duraleigh]

CYA is a product unto itself. Available at the big box stores or any pool store. Brand is usually irrelevant. Instruction on the container will give you proper dosage.

I'll let others talk about SWG's.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ok thanks I mostly follow this but I have two follow ups. What product should I get to add cya? I can follow the SWG instruction manual recommendations to add the suggested amount of salt, but how do I know when it’s actually up and running properly?

For the cya - its just called granular stabilizer/conditioner- somewhere on the package it will say 100% Cyanuric Acid
There are many brands at lowes, Home Depot, Walmart etc. I usually buy clorox brand at Walmart because it’s convenient.
Without cya in the water the sun will consume your fc rapidly.
You have already been below minimum for some time now. Adequate Fc is paramount lest nasties will grow.

For the swg- When u test the actual salt level (after your final addition has been circulating for a day) & its within the recommended range for the swg - crank her up.

 

[MITBeta]

With granular CYA, add it to your pool by putting it in an old stocking and hanging it in front of a return jet. Don't let it touch the sides or bottom of the pool. Squeeze periodically after it's been soaking for 30 minutes to help it along. Don't dump it into the skimmer.