Test kit in ... let the SLAMing begin!

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Could be Caco. One of my light cases developed a crack and it was fixed 8 months ago. So it may have returned. However, last time that happened my salt was nearly zero as a result. So feels slightly different but still could be right. I cant do a bucket test because it has been raining like crazy in sydney. Significant albeit intermittent down pours.

I last measured salt on 2/2/17 and it was 5000
I last did CYA 26/2 and I took a punt at the reading as it was below 30 so I guessed 15. I put in 690mg CYA which is worth around 20ppm on 26/2/17. Reading today was still below 30. I cant remember ever having a good reading of CYA.

I have an auto top up which drawers water from my rain tank, if empty it switched over to my Sydney Water supply.
 
Well, given your previous post and the fact that the CYA test can be +-10ppm I would assume you have 30 from your latest test and add another 30ppm as we are heading into autumn and the pool does not have to deal with as much UV loss of FC

Try testing your CYA 24 hours after it dissolves to see what you get

I would also run a bucket test when you finally get a break from the rain just to rule out the possibility of a leak

The change in salt level says you have changed 32% of the water

Little confused over the CYA, 20ppm would be 414g, I get 33ppm for 690g
If you did add 690g, then your CYA would be near 50ppm, which needs a 70% water change to get back to 15
If you added 20ppm your CYA would be near 35, which needs a 55% water change to get back to 15

I would also drop your water level a bit, 20mm is not a lot for splashing etc
 
I think your plan will work fine, but here's my comments for what they're worth.

6000 ppm salt is indeed high across a range of chlorinator brands, but it's correct for yours. I'm running the same chlorinator on a pool I help look after, and it seems better around 5500 than it was at 4000.

I'd double check the TA, and raise it if 40 is correct. I'd only go up to 50 or 60 though. You're getting close to your pH/TA sweet spot, so better not to over-steer. The pool store would very likely tell you 100 or more, but that's purely so they can sell more acid. If your CSI is below your preferred range, allow pH to settle a bit higher, like 7.7 or 7.8, and/or raise CH to 250-300 ppm.

Until you're absolutely sure algae is not part of your issue, I would not raise CYA. The gains from higher CYA are small, and keeping it lower makes a SLAM easier. If it was my pool, I'd use 50 ppm CYA for now.

I would definitely check for a leak by doing the bucket test. It's a good suggestion and well worth ruling out if possible, considering the test is easy to do. It's been a fair bit of rain (125 mm (5") in the last week), which would explain a bit of what you're seeing (around a 10% drop in CH for example) but not that much. Your autofill and overflow will need to be off, but it can be done with a bit of rain.

The 20 mm (3/4") difference between ideal depth and overflow depth is not uncommon, but I agree a bit more might be helpful. It depends whether your overflow is subject to the waves in the pool or not.

I read a thread here where the autofill and overflow were active at the same time, so I'd want to rule that out as well.

I hope you find an easier routine soon. Getting it down to testing and balancing every 2 or 3 days or even twice a week is within reach, with less testing in winter.
 
:goodpost:
I wish there was a great post emoji, cos Needs that post rocks :rockon:


Oh and Buba, take this as slow and easy as you want
You have been a machine over :shock::!: OMG 23 pages
And you have had a crash course in pool chemistry, but I think you have that pretty much sussed now
Not surprised at all that you feel a little burned out
 
needsajet said:
I think your plan will work fine, but here's my comments for what they're worth.

6000 ppm salt is indeed high across a range of chlorinator brands, but it's correct for yours. I'm running the same chlorinator on a pool I help look after, and it seems better around 5500 than it was at 4000.

I'd double check the TA, and raise it if 40 is correct. I'd only go up to 50 or 60 though. You're getting close to your pH/TA sweet spot, so better not to over-steer. The pool store would very likely tell you 100 or more, but that's purely so they can sell more acid. If your CSI is below your preferred range, allow pH to settle a bit higher, like 7.7 or 7.8, and/or raise CH to 250-300 ppm.

Until you're absolutely sure algae is not part of your issue, I would not raise CYA. The gains from higher CYA are small, and keeping it lower makes a SLAM easier. If it was my pool, I'd use 50 ppm CYA for now.

I would definitely check for a leak by doing the bucket test. It's a good suggestion and well worth ruling out if possible, considering the test is easy to do. It's been a fair bit of rain (125 mm (5") in the last week), which would explain a bit of what you're seeing (around a 10% drop in CH for example) but not that much. Your autofill and overflow will need to be off, but it can be done with a bit of rain.

The 20 mm (3/4") difference between ideal depth and overflow depth is not uncommon, but I agree a bit more might be helpful. It depends whether your overflow is subject to the waves in the pool or not.

I read a thread here where the autofill and overflow were active at the same time, so I'd want to rule that out as well.

I hope you find an easier routine soon. Getting it down to testing and balancing every 2 or 3 days or even twice a week is within reach, with less testing in winter.
Click to expand...

I think I will do the bucket test tonight before adding anything to rule it out otherwise it will be a waste.
In relation to the overflow and waves, although I have not check I would say it is not a big issue. The overflow is in my pool plant room linked to the pool with a pipe and eyelet similar to a return. The over flow is a 20mm pipe so it take a long to time to drop down to the level set by my float valve. Imnot sure how the autofill and overflow can be active at the same time but will check...unless there is a fault in the float I suppose. I dont think this is an issue thought as I would hear water flow in my plant room from pipes.

I have never really had to raise TA before so this a new thing for me...Pool math says baking soda? Any particular type?

1 test per week is the goal :)
 
Caco said:
Well, given your previous post and the fact that the CYA test can be +-10ppm I would assume you have 30 from your latest test and add another 30ppm as we are heading into autumn and the pool does not have to deal with as much UV loss of FC

Try testing your CYA 24 hours after it dissolves to see what you get

I would also run a bucket test when you finally get a break from the rain just to rule out the possibility of a leak

The change in salt level says you have changed 32% of the water

Little confused over the CYA, 20ppm would be 414g, I get 33ppm for 690g
If you did add 690g, then your CYA would be near 50ppm, which needs a 70% water change to get back to 15
If you added 20ppm your CYA would be near 35, which needs a 55% water change to get back to 15

I would also drop your water level a bit, 20mm is not a lot for splashing etc
Click to expand...

Your math is correct Caco. I was trying to up it by around 30 but put 690mg. As the test does not measure below 30 then I have no Idea what it was befoe..could have been zero, and with water replacement since I could be at 25 now and not know. If my theory is correct, I should add 30ppm now and see if I get a reading tomorrow as my CYA could have been 0?

I will see where I can drop the water level to but would say it would be hard to get more than 5-10 mm to ensure the pool cover has enough water to come up the deep end walls and turn 90 degrees to float along the top of the pool and get stuck.

EDIT: I think I might turn off auto top up in any event for a week or two. If I am getting that much water replacement I will notice the drop. If it is simply the rain water sinking and the balanced water during rain events is overflowing then in theory it should not drop as much....is that theory right? The overflow link in the pool is actually around 100mm below water level so it could be taking water back to the auto top up pipe that is balanced if you know what I mean.
 
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I've used Coles or Woolies Bi-carb Soda (aka baking soda, aka sodium bicarbonate, aka bi-carb) and the 500g homebrand bag is around $1 or $2 (you'll find it near the flour and cake mixes)

If it's handier for you, Bunnings Alkalinity Increaser (pH Buffer) is $10 for 2 kg. Figure out the quantity with PoolMath, but I think you'll only need 500g at most, and you'll probably never need it again! :)

I'm afraid I didn't understand what you meant about the overflow, but it sounds like waves aren't an issue. I'm sure you mean gram (g) when you typed mg, but that would be milligram. Yeh, I don't know about once a week, but it's good to shoot for down the track I spose. In winter (unless heating) you'll be able to go two or three weeks easy.

And thanks, Caco. Your posts are the bomb!
 

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Ok...good start - woke up this morning and bucket was looking good. If there was a leak reflective of the water replacement values in Caco's post (Test kit in ... let the SLAMing begin! - Page 23) I would have expected to see a change?

I will wait till thi afteroon and check again.

In either event, Caco's post is quite interesting as it still means water is being replaced for my balancing to change so dramatically. Also, the last nine days we have not swam so the replacement must be 1 of 2 events both of which could be related to the 20mm difference between the pool over flow and the currently set water level:

Event 1 - rain, the water overflowing is balanced water and not rain water;
Event 2 - pool cover. Every time the pool cover is open it goes into its pit which may raise the water level enough to over flow? I will test this straight after the bucket test and am thinking it should be an easy fix.

BTW, I am not totally convince with my theory as these balancing issues have been happening for a while now.

I have an optional far out there event 3: How much water comes in from the hydrostatic releif valves in the main drains of the pool? Could that be adding to water replacement?
 

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