Test kit in ... let the SLAMing begin!

[Jezza]

Once you learn how your pool behaves you can reduce the frequency of testing. Not only that but a quality test kit with good TFP advice saves you dollars many times over rather than relying on the inaccurate pool store testing and the suggested chemical additions.

 

[buballodingo]

For sure Jezza. For the things I had to purchase just get my pool going again my savings (the numbers are the difference in cost) were the below if I had to buy from the pool shop (not including what other chemicals they would have sold to me):

Calcium increaser = 1 x $18 = $18
Salt = 7 x $4= $28
Stabiliser = 2 x$18 = $36
Chlorine 1 x $5 = $5

That's what I can remember there were a couple of other things too. So that is around $87 less. Nearly paid for my $120 test kit - so really - free testing just like to pool store. Granted I had an issue to deal with so wont be saving this every year so testing kit costs are the difference.

 

[needsajet]

For sure Jezza. For the things I had to purchase just get my pool going again my savings (the numbers are the difference in cost) were the below if I had to buy from the pool shop (not including what other chemicals they would have sold to me):

Calcium increaser = 1 x $18 = $18
Salt = 7 x $4= $28
Stabiliser = 2 x$18 = $36
Chlorine 1 x $5 = $5

That's what I can remember there were a couple of other things too. So that is around $87 less. Nearly paid for my $120 test kit - so really - free testing just like to pool store. Granted I had an issue to deal with so wont be saving this every year so testing kit costs are the difference.

#thatswhatwelovetohear

 

[buballodingo]

My FC spiked from 11.5 to 15 over 2 days. It has been overcast and raining..is that normal and is that further justification that my above normal fc consumption on hotter days is from the hotter weather?

My SWG was running at 70% for 8 hours a day. So I dropped it to 60% for now and will adjust again if required. pH was consistent at 7.6.

 

[Jezza]

Yep the hotter days and the intensity of the sunlight make a big difference to FC consumption- combined with a higher bather load. In my case that's 3 kids and friends who spend the entire day in the pool. Again the regular testing helps you to keep things in range with the variation in summer conditions.

 

[kimkats]

My FC spiked from 11.5 to 15 over 2 days. It has been overcast and raining..is that normal and is that further justification that my above normal fc consumption on hotter days is from the hotter weather?

My SWG was running at 70% for 8 hours a day. So I dropped it to 60% for now and will adjust again if required. pH was consistent at 7.6.

I think you have nailed it! Good job! Is it still as pretty as before the rain?

Kim

 

[buballodingo]

Crystal clear kimkats...very happy so far...especially because it coped with the rain

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

 

[buballodingo]

So FC dropped to 13 after being at 15 2 days ago. Considering I had 2 big swims I think thats good.. I have a hot few days in sydney coming so will keep SWG at 50% for now. I kept the filter running during swim events.

Now, My CYA measure was under 30, but I am so bad at measuring CYA. SO I am thinking of leaving it for another week and retesting...any thoughts?

 

[needsajet]

I would turn the SWG off for a few days and let it drop to around 5-8 ppm FC since you've still up at shock level. I'd turn the SWG back on at 50% and 5 hours run time after that and see how it goes.

Your CYA should be something we can calculate based on what you've added, since you started out with a full drain. It should still pretty much all be there.

Glad you're getting good use from the pool

 

[buballodingo]

Hi Needsajet,
On hot days I was losing 6.6ppm FC so that was the concern I had with putting the SWG at 0%. Perhaps I can drop it to 30% and see how it goes?

Am I correct in saying that I am only at shock level if my CYA was actually below 30? If I am 70, then my FC only slightly high? Do agree I should get it down though.

 

[needsajet]

Sorry, dingo, I mis-read 30 CYA. If you're at CYA of 70 ppm then yep, you're fine. My tendency would be to turn it off to get to around 7-10, then see how it holds with the settings you reckon will work. But you're all good either way.

 

[kimkats]

SWEET! You are really getting it dialed in now. You in the tweaking phase where you can figure out what works best for you and your pool.

I bet everyone is loving the water now! Has anyone else noticed how clear it is now?



Kim

 

[buballodingo]

Sorry, dingo, I mis-read 30 CYA. If you're at CYA of 70 ppm then yep, you're fine. My tendency would be to turn it off to get to around 7-10, then see how it holds with the settings you reckon will work. But you're all good either way.

Nah mate...you read it right. My CYA test was below 30, but it aint making sense to me as it should be around 70. I will test again tonight...maybe it is because I am testing in the evening - does this impact CYA - amount and type of light. my rear year r=faces east so I am fully shield from the sun at this time.

- - - Updated - - -

SWEET! You are really getting it dialed in now. You in the tweaking phase where you can figure out what works best for you and your pool.

I bet everyone is loving the water now! Has anyone else noticed how clear it is now?



Kim

Nobody cares how the pool looks when it is 40 degrees, they just wanna jump in....I did notice for the first time thought I couldnt open my eyes as well under the water as I used to. I think it is a pH thing and I must have been running it lower before?

Its been pretty consistent at 7.6 lately.

 

[kimkats]

LOL well then let them jump in!

eyes=ph for sure. You might want to play around with it and see what your eyes say. This is another reason we have a range. Some like it here and some there.

Kim

 

[Jezza]

Good to hear that your enjoying the pool- before you know it the summer will be over.

The CYA test is designed to be done in full sunlight with your back to the sun. You won't get an accurate result if your testing in the evening or even the twilight.

 

[buballodingo]

Good to hear that your enjoying the pool- before you know it the summer will be over.

The CYA test is designed to be done in full sunlight with your back to the sun. You won't get an accurate result if your testing in the evening or even the twilight.

That is why I get some random readings. Will do out the front later today and see if it makes a difference. I try to use my pool all year round to be honest. Wife doesn't like it but I chuck the kids in at every opportunity..they don't feel the cold like old people like me - even if they did...they will get used to it

 

[needsajet]

For the CYA test, there's a few tricks that help.

Pool water to lower line, with bottom of meniscus at the line. Top off with CYA detection reagent until bottom of meniscus is at upper line
Swirl or invert repeatedly for 30 seconds; waiting longer seems to help me get a good reading, so I mix it before the other tests and then read CYA last.
Hold the viewing tube by the top edge with thumb and forefinger
Hold viewing tube at waist level with your back to the sun
Pour from mixing tube until you can't make out the CCL logo at the bottom any more. You may see a bit of darkening, but definitely not make out that it's a flask
Don't stare; look away and then glance - do you see the flask shape right away? If so add a bit more.
When you're done, pour it back into the mixing tube
Repeat the reading by pouring the same solution again. Do this as many times as you like, until you're getting a reasonably consistent reading.

The CCL kit has a 50 ppm standard with it, so after you get the technique sorted, try testing that standard the exact same way, and see how it looks. If need be, after using the mixing tube to add the CYA detection reagent to a sample of the CYA standard, walk around your yard testing until you find the right lighting and get 50 ppm.

It helps to understand how the test works. The CYA detection reagent has melamine that combines with the CYA forming small white particles. The particles need lots of light to create the turbidity, but if the black logo at the bottom is also well lit from above, it makes it easier to see.

- - - Updated - - -

oh yeh, do you know the weight of CYA added? It will almost all still be in the pool water, and we can calculate the ppm CYA.

- - - Updated - - -

Most everyone has trouble with the CYA test, so don't feel alone, mate!

 

[buballodingo]

That's great info there mate thanks. Good idea about testing the standard and moving around.

My CYA is 1000g/kg and my history is below (up till 17/1/17 I was in SLAM mode)

8/1/17 1250g
Then, with all the backwashing during the SLAM it dropped below 30...to what level we were unsure. SO after the SLAM we wanted to get it up to 70.

17/1/17 520g
18/1/17 510g

That's it.

 

[needsajet]

So the initial addition after the drain/refill was ~60 ppm CYA. Then a guesstimate based on testing of 20/30 ppm CYA after SLAM due to backwashes and approx. test of <30 ppm CYA.

Then added 50 ppm CYA, so it's very reasonable to estimate you're at 60 to 80 ppm CYA. Excellent level for your pool, and 4 to 10 ppm FC is a good level for maintenance, safety and comfortable swimming. Bewdy, mate

I know I've mentioned a wide range of FC compared to some, and that's because of a large SWC relative to pool size. A narrow range will drive you bonkers, so tryin' to be nice

 

[buballodingo]

So FC dropped to 11ppm from 13 which is what I sort of expected. By tomorrow should be at 9ppm and I will place the SWG back to 50% to maintain.

Now my headache of a CYA experiment. I did everything I got a CYA reading of 38 from my pool water. Then I tested with the STandard and it was below 30ppm I tried every angle location at it was a very frustrating experience. So now I am a bit concerned about my CYA and wondering if I should dump some stabiliser in or not? If I so, I assume my FC consumption rate would reduce slightly as well.