Test Aqua-Rite flow switch

May 8, 2016
67
St Paul, MN
Pool Size
40000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
We just opened our pool last week - always a tenuous moment, especially after the violent winter we had this year in Minnesota. Everything appears to be working fine, except my Aqua-Rite is stuck on a steady, red light "No Flow" - when there clearly is flow. I've backwashed multiple times, my heater is turning on - so I know the flow is strong. I got a new flow switch late last summer.

Here's my question: How can I test if the flow switch is bad?

I've tried turning off the pump, removing the switch and holding it closed. The system didn't register a change. Do I need to try holding it closed with the pump on (while plugging the open pipe where the switch usually fits)?

I've read about the phone jack hack in many threads, but I have no idea what y'all mean by "twist the wires together." If that's something I should try, I need super basic instructions. (I assume the phone jack is to test if the board is corrupt vs the flow switch itself?)

Many thanks.
 
This is the flow switch connector...

Hayward_Aquarite_GLX-PCB-XXXX_RJ11_PinOut.jpg


The flow switch simply connects together the innermost pins 3 & 4.

If you have a telephone plug that connects to those pins then you twist the wire together and see if the board thinks there is flow.

You can also stick a flat blade screwdriver into the jack to short the pins. Wait about a minute for the board to recognize the closed circuit and see if the NO FLOW light goes off.

For the flow switch you need a multimeter to test the pins and see if there is electrical continuity when the switch is closed.
 
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