Mcgozer: yes go to home depot and rent a submersible pump. They know what you need for a pool. Comes with 50' lengths of fire hose. Connect the hoses together and drop the pump in the deep end (hold on o the attached rope) next plug in the pump and start draining. You are supposed to put the hose into the sewer clean out pipe that is usually around front of the house. Not the ones on the wall but the big one coming up out of he ground. I am on septic so I couldn't do hat and had to dump to the street. I took some video I will try to post today and put a link. Real easy to do.
TDS Phosphate NO Free Chlorine Drain My Pool Oh MY
- Thread starter rankol
- Start date
Cutiger: maybe it is faster thanks for "clarifying"
Last test
PH7.5
Started shock added about 150 ounces LC (10%) to raise to about 10FC
I am about to test again see where I am
Question.
Once I do the OCLT and I don't lose more than 1ppm of FC how do I deal with a pool that now has around 10FC instead of Recommended 3-7FC?
Do I just wait for it to come down naturally?
Last test
PH7.5
Started shock added about 150 ounces LC (10%) to raise to about 10FC
I am about to test again see where I am
Question.
Once I do the OCLT and I don't lose more than 1ppm of FC how do I deal with a pool that now has around 10FC instead of Recommended 3-7FC?
Do I just wait for it to come down naturally?
So 1 hour after adding LC I am at
PH 7.5
FC 6
CC 0
Pool is clear ( never was very cloudy)
Should I raise and shock or can I let the kids swim now??
PH 7.5
FC 6
CC 0
Pool is clear ( never was very cloudy)
Should I raise and shock or can I let the kids swim now??
That's a pretty big drop in Chlorine in one hour. You never really got to shock level either. The quickest way to get swimming would be to jack up the Chlorine to 15 and keep it there. I'd chalk today up. OCLT tonight and go from there. If you don't pass continue shocking. You're probably close but no sense skipping steps that are important to clear and safe water.rankol said:
I don't know much it dropped because I don't have a test from when I added first test was 1hr. I will test now
Ok tested again 12:30pm 1 hr interval
FC 5.5
CC 0
So I lost .5 ppm in 1 hour considering las Vegas sun and only 25CYA that seems not bad. What do you think?
Kids are dying to swim.
FC 5.5
CC 0
So I lost .5 ppm in 1 hour considering las Vegas sun and only 25CYA that seems not bad. What do you think?
Kids are dying to swim.
That doesn't seem bad. The reason you want to pass the OCLT is because it's a surefire way to determine that nothing is growing in the pool. You should definitely perform and pass this test at some point.rankol said:
If it were my pool and I could see the bottom clearly with CCs at 0 and the kids yammerin about swimming I'd probably cave in and let em swim. Shouldn't hurt to put the OCLT off until tonight.
Just tested again
(1hr intervaLS
11:30am FC 6 CC 0
12:30pm FC 5.5 CC 0
1:30pm FC 4.2 CC 0
CYA 25 Vegas sun
I just added a little chlorine o goose it up and I'm going to let them swim then jack it back up to like 10-12 and do the OCLT tonight.
(1hr intervaLS
11:30am FC 6 CC 0
12:30pm FC 5.5 CC 0
1:30pm FC 4.2 CC 0
CYA 25 Vegas sun
I just added a little chlorine o goose it up and I'm going to let them swim then jack it back up to like 10-12 and do the OCLT tonight.
Sounds good. Bring it up to 12 and wait a couple hours to give it time to eat up anything from the swimmers. Good luck.
Thanks to everyone again. Need more advice. Shock is done. Went overnight with no drop in FC and no CC.
Here are current numbers
FC 1.5 (I know to raise kids went night swimming and low CYA)
CC 0
PH 8+
TA 180
CH 290
CYA 25
I did acid demand test and added acid to come down to about 7.6 PH
Going out with kids 2 hours and plan to add LC when get back. So what is next order of business?
Bring CYA up to 40-50?
I bought some stuff from Natural Chemistry called Instant Conditioner it says it is equivalent to 30% CYA. Should I use this to raise CYA? Is that the next step here? What's the test interval on CYA after adding chemicals?
Appreciate the advice.
Here are current numbers
FC 1.5 (I know to raise kids went night swimming and low CYA)
CC 0
PH 8+
TA 180
CH 290
CYA 25
I did acid demand test and added acid to come down to about 7.6 PH
Going out with kids 2 hours and plan to add LC when get back. So what is next order of business?
Bring CYA up to 40-50?
I bought some stuff from Natural Chemistry called Instant Conditioner it says it is equivalent to 30% CYA. Should I use this to raise CYA? Is that the next step here? What's the test interval on CYA after adding chemicals?
Appreciate the advice.
Make sure you add Chlorine when needed. With CYA at 25, your Chlorine should never go below 2 ppm. The Natural Chemistry Instant Conditioner I'm familiar with comes in 1 gallon jugs and one full gallon raises CYA by 40 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water. In 12,000 gallons one full gallon will raise it 33 ppm. If yours is the same stuff, I'd add half a gallon. That should get you to a little above 40. It's made to dissolve quickly and should show up on the test the next day. Read the directions to be certain and make sure you shake it up before adding.
After you add it, assume it's in the water and working and use 40 ppm as your new CYA number. That means your new Chlorine levels are 3 to 6 ppm. Never go below 3 and add extra to make sure you stay above 3. I add my Chlorine after the sun's off the pool. I usually lose between 2 and 3 ppm from the sun and swimmers so I add 2 to 3 ppm over my minimum plus one. In your case that would be shooting for 6 or 7 ppm.
After you add it, assume it's in the water and working and use 40 ppm as your new CYA number. That means your new Chlorine levels are 3 to 6 ppm. Never go below 3 and add extra to make sure you stay above 3. I add my Chlorine after the sun's off the pool. I usually lose between 2 and 3 ppm from the sun and swimmers so I add 2 to 3 ppm over my minimum plus one. In your case that would be shooting for 6 or 7 ppm.
Yes I think it's same stuff. Says it raise CYA 32ppm per jug in 10000 gal.
So it takes a day for CYA to register?
Also what about other numbers?
What should I shoot for in PH? 7.6?
Is there anything I need to do for CH TA?
So in switching to LC am I looking at adding chlorine every day by hand?
What about PH? How often should I expect to need to adjust this?
What's next to take the pool to the next level?
So it takes a day for CYA to register?
Also what about other numbers?
What should I shoot for in PH? 7.6?
Is there anything I need to do for CH TA?
So in switching to LC am I looking at adding chlorine every day by hand?
What about PH? How often should I expect to need to adjust this?
What's next to take the pool to the next level?
Half a gallon will give an additional 13 ppm of CYA in 12,000 gallons. Go with that and see how your pool likes it.rankol said:
PH is good between 7.2 to 7.8 I like to knock mine back to 7.2 when it gets to 7.8rankol said:
Yes, you have to add Chlorine daily. You've already gone to the next level by coming here.rankol said:
Post another set of numbers in a couple days. That will give you time to know your pools rhythm as far as Chlorine and PH goes. Those two should be tested daily.Pool School and the The Pool Calculator are your two best friends. If your not sure about something, post back to this thread and we'll figure it out. You did a great job on getting your CYA down. Going forward will be a piece of cake.
Re: TDS Phosphate NO Free Chlorine Drain My Pool Oh MY I'm b
Hey all back again. Thanks again for all the advice. Everything was spot on. I have my big test kit and liquid chlorine. I ditched the chlorinator tabs and never looked back. Just getting pool redy again for the season. Kids already swimming. Really did very little testing over winter just tossed a jug of chlorine in every so often. Pool looks great with no CC. PH was way high purple off the scale added about 2qts acid. Let the kids swim (after 5-6 hours). So today I did a bunch of tests and have some questions.
Results
PH 7.5
FC 5.5
CC 0
TA 170
CH 340 (turned purplish so probably need to redo with the titrate 5 drops)
CYA 20? I think gets to top of tube and just disappears. I have k2006 with 30-100 tube
So is TA real high? Does it matter?
Should I really try to up CYA? I am scared of CYA. If you remember from beginning of this post I had to drain my pool because of CYA and Crud from the chlorine pucks and "shock" treatments Leslie's kept telling me to put in. I got the stabilizer last year but it never seemed to increase CYA as expected from directions so of course I'm afraid I am testing wrong and will end up high again.
What do you think should I address the CYA? TA?
PH Tends to creep up so should I shoot for 7.2-7.4 or let it roll at 7.5?
Thanks again guys!
Hey all back again. Thanks again for all the advice. Everything was spot on. I have my big test kit and liquid chlorine. I ditched the chlorinator tabs and never looked back. Just getting pool redy again for the season. Kids already swimming. Really did very little testing over winter just tossed a jug of chlorine in every so often. Pool looks great with no CC. PH was way high purple off the scale added about 2qts acid. Let the kids swim (after 5-6 hours). So today I did a bunch of tests and have some questions.
Results
PH 7.5
FC 5.5
CC 0
TA 170
CH 340 (turned purplish so probably need to redo with the titrate 5 drops)
CYA 20? I think gets to top of tube and just disappears. I have k2006 with 30-100 tube
So is TA real high? Does it matter?
Should I really try to up CYA? I am scared of CYA. If you remember from beginning of this post I had to drain my pool because of CYA and Crud from the chlorine pucks and "shock" treatments Leslie's kept telling me to put in. I got the stabilizer last year but it never seemed to increase CYA as expected from directions so of course I'm afraid I am testing wrong and will end up high again.
What do you think should I address the CYA? TA?
PH Tends to creep up so should I shoot for 7.2-7.4 or let it roll at 7.5?
Thanks again guys!
Your TA is a little high, but not a big deal. Without a SWG or fountain or waterfall you can just lower the PH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.8 until TA gets down to something more reasonable, and not worry about it too much.
Since it is the start of the season you should raise CYA to around 50, so it will still be at least 30 towards the end of the season. Remember that CYA is easy to raise and tricky to lower, so raise it a bit less than you calculate, wait a while, test again and adjust from there.
Since it is the start of the season you should raise CYA to around 50, so it will still be at least 30 towards the end of the season. Remember that CYA is easy to raise and tricky to lower, so raise it a bit less than you calculate, wait a while, test again and adjust from there.
Thanks!
So no concern on CH?
I have a raised spa with overflow that I can get some real heavy arcing flow over. How long should I run this to have an effect on TA? 2 hours a day?
For CYA does anyone recommend a brand? I know everyone says its all the same but in looking on Leslie's site the only thing that comes up for cyuranic acid is INSTANT CONDITIONER from NATURAL CHEMISTRY. The problem is the description of the product says " Instant Pool Water Conditioner is not an acid (it's a salt) and has a pool friendly pH, " so if its not an acid then how is it cyuranic acid?
Also on the CYA I thought it never really comes out of the pool?
Thanks again
So no concern on CH?
I have a raised spa with overflow that I can get some real heavy arcing flow over. How long should I run this to have an effect on TA? 2 hours a day?
For CYA does anyone recommend a brand? I know everyone says its all the same but in looking on Leslie's site the only thing that comes up for cyuranic acid is INSTANT CONDITIONER from NATURAL CHEMISTRY. The problem is the description of the product says " Instant Pool Water Conditioner is not an acid (it's a salt) and has a pool friendly pH, " so if its not an acid then how is it cyuranic acid?
Also on the CYA I thought it never really comes out of the pool?
Thanks again