Taylor Salt Test Good, but Low Salt Light?

mikeqf

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 9, 2018
22
Columbus Grove, OH
Pool Size
17500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hi all! We've been having a good first summer with our pool thanks to the help and advice of the folks here along with some great swimming weather. Chlorine levels have been pretty good, and I've been working since our installer finished up on getting testing levels where they should be. CYA is still lower than I'd like, but I've been cautiously increasing over the last month. One thing I haven't done much with is the salt level. The installer put it in when we started up, and the SWG has been giving us green lights since. I had purchased the Taylor Sodium Chloride test kit when I bought the TF-100, but after trying it once and not thinking I did it right, I hadn't done it since.

Last week we had a couple of days of heavy rain, during which the pool was covered, followed by a good weekend of swimming. Sunday night, however, the iChlor salt level light was showing red. To make sure I was adding the correct amount as needed, I tried my test kit again. I got a result this time, 3800ppm, which from what I'm reading is a pretty optimal level. FC levels also showed low, so I added some liquid shock at that time before closing it up for the night and trying to figure out what to do next. After an incredibly busy day and night yesterday and getting home today, I tested again. It came out at 4000ppm this time.

The iChlor still has a low salt light, but the cell light is green. After reading through the manual some more tonight, I figured out diagnostic mode, and the salinity level it is reading is 2851. Do I trust what the iChlor is showing me or go by the chemical test? Could there be something else causing the iChlor to read wrong? Something needing cleaned after the initial startup of the pool? If it's as simple as going with that number and adding salt, that's great, but I wanted to run it past the experts before I did something. Thanks!
 
This is why you need a history of salt tests so you can see if the trends on the SWG and the test match up.

A 1000ppm difference between to the 2 is rather larger than I would expect.
Normally when the SWG starts reading lower than the test it is a sign of a failing cell, but your is pretty new.

What are your full set of test results?
 
Mike,

It appears to me the new Ichlor uses the same old flaky design of a flow switch that all of the IntelliChlor (IC20, 40, 60) units have. When the actual salt is good, and the cell's salt reads low, it is almost always a bad thermistor inside the flow switch.

Tell your installer or Pentair to get out there and replace it under warranty.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I learned something today, did not know there is a thermistor inside the flow switch
Mike,

It appears to me the new Ichlor uses the same old flaky design of a flow switch that all of the IntelliChlor (IC20, 40, 60) units have. When the actual salt is good, and the cell's salt reads low, it is almost always a bad thermistor inside the flow switch.

Tell your installer or Pentair to get out there and replace it under warranty.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. After sending some info to my installer last night, I checked things out this afternoon. Taylor test once again read 3800, but today I have a short flashing red on the cell light on the iChlor. Additionally, I didn't even pay attention to it yesterday, but the temperature in the diagnostic mode was being reported as 136F, and today it's not reporting any temperature. Looking at the error codes in the manual it seems that Jim has the answer, a bad flow switch. Passed that along to my installer and hopefully we'll get it fixed quickly. Thanks again!
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. After sending some info to my installer last night, I checked things out this afternoon. Taylor test once again read 3800, but today I have a short flashing red on the cell light on the iChlor. Additionally, I didn't even pay attention to it yesterday, but the temperature in the diagnostic mode was being reported as 136F, and today it's not reporting any temperature. Looking at the error codes in the manual it seems that Jim has the answer, a bad flow switch. Passed that along to my installer and hopefully we'll get it fixed quickly. Thanks again!
Mike,

I'm starting to see the same with my newly installed ichlor 30. Did the flow switch replacement solve your problem?
 
I have a different cell, but earlier this year had a low salt error on my panel when Taylor test was showing 3400. I cleaned the sensors with rubbing alcohol and that took care of the problem. Cell reads 3100 while Taylor test still shows 3400, but close enough.
 
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