Taylor R-011L

[jason.jammer]

Has anyone had issues with squeezing drops out of R-011L? For the past several months it's been harder and harder to squeeze drops out and finally today, no drops. My bottle is .75 and not expired. Just wanted see if anyone has encountered this.

 

[BowserB]

Yeah, all the time. My last bottle I guess I squeezed too hard, as I blew the top off it. Bit of a mess. Every time I squeeze it now, I halfway expect it to blow!

 

[Texas Splash]

Do you have an empty bottle around by chance? See if you can just swap the tips.

 

[jason.jammer]

Yeah, all the time. My last bottle I guess I squeezed too hard, as I blew the top off it. Bit of a mess. Every time I squeeze it now, I halfway expect it to blow!

My blew off as well!

 

[jason.jammer]

Do you have an empty bottle around by chance? See if you can just swap the tips.

No I don't have a spare bottle, plus, the tip blew off and the reagent went all over.

 

[Texas Splash]

@Leebo, thoughts? Replace some tips perhaps?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Take a pin next time and clear the tip opening. This particular indicator is very thick and it can separate out of solution causing the tip to clog. If the reagent has turned "chunky" (like curdled milk), then it has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Also, be sure to store the bottle upright so that the tip drains back into the bottle.

 

[SecoSteve]

Same trouble here. I've had trouble with that test from the beginning of the season. My final change from red to blue has never been complete. Mostly goes to lavender. And then it takes about 10-12 additional drops to get to blue. I'm sure my CH is not that high. Always seems like that drop is too small, and the cap and lid have a film of the liquid on it. My "kit" only allows for horizontal storage, so maybe that's why it seems clogged up.

 

[mknauss]

Remember the R0011L drop size is not all that important. Just add enough to get a sufficient color to the sample to see the change.

Also, if you are seeing the lavender/purple, be sure to do the metals interference process. And if you are using a SmartStir, turn it on and off when you near the expected CH endpoint. That can effect the result.

 

[SecoSteve]

Remember the R0011L drop size is not all that important. Just add enough to get a sufficient color to the sample to see the change.

Also, if you are seeing the lavender/purple, be sure to do the metals interference process. And if you are using a SmartStir, turn it on and off when you near the expected CH endpoint. That can effect the result.

Is the metals interference process adding 5 drops of #12 first? I tried that and same result. I am using the SmartStir and just leave it on the whole time. So, I should turn it off when I think I'm near the endpoint?

 

[mknauss]

I use 10 drops of R0012 first, then 10 drops of R0010, then enough R0011L to see good color. It turns the lavender / purple and after just two more drops it turns a different color, hard to call it blue, but that change is all that matters. Bump the SmartStir as you can get a color change and it will go back to the purple, that is the fading endpoint. When you bump it and it stays the blu'ish' color, that is the end.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

If you suspect you have very high levels of calcium, then you need to dilute the water sample and rerun the test. A 1:1 dilution with DISTILLED water (you can buy it in the supermarket) will cut the mineral and metal ion contamination in half and probably give you a better endpoint. The CH test is not very accurate when the CH is above 800ppm.