Taylor K1000 Chlorine/pH test (or alternate) - Why such a low range for Chlorine?

[iadams]

I love my TF-100 test kit from tftestkits - I do. I love the accuracy and simplicity in instructions. I've also had (started with back 10 years ago) the Taylor K-2006.

I also loved my K-1000 for a quick and dirty pH and quick chlorine test until I got my salt water chlorine generator (SWCG). I would purposely keep my CLA low enough that my recommended chlorine level fell between ~2-4ppm so that I could use the quick and dirty test from the K-1000....and ESPECIALLY so that when I travelled for work, it was easy to show my wife/daughter/neighbor/friend how to test for chlorine really quickly and fairly painlessly.

It's also a cheap test and uses little in the way of reagents, so can be done more often. I don't need 0.5ppm accuracy every day like the chlorine drop test gives. That's great weekly or after an event (like a party or storms) but not every day or even every other day. I know my pool and can judge pretty well, but I still like to test and definitely want people watching the pool for me to test.

Why does the K-1000 that goes above 5ppm? That max range seems low, even for a lot of people without SWCG out in the real world. I can find a Taylor high range comparitor but can't find how to use it or what it uses....

Is there something out there that I don't know about? Maybe reasons why not? For me, with the SWCG I like to test even more often just to be sure it's working and nothing is going off track. When I used liquid chlorine I KNEW how much chlorine was added, with the SWCG I have a % level set but is it enough? Did something not work? Is all OK? I don't know unless I test.

Comparison for daily testing with recommended levels:
K-1000 test requires 5 drops of reagent. Done.
T-100 (and equivalent Taylor tests) is a scoop of FAS/DPD powder and at least 14 drops of R-0871 (to measure at least 7ppm free chlorine)

Why not have a quick kit that has a range of, say, 4-10ppm? One kit that has comparitor tubes for pH and chlorine with a chlorine range as I mentioned? What am I missing?

 

[MITBeta]

Because conventional pool wisdom says that FC over 3 is too high. (sigh)

 

[Donldson]

The OTO test is virtually worthless for any precision. The color change is extremely gradual past a couple PPM so any sort of good reading is impossible, and it also reads Total Chlorine which can hide a brewing problem that may be generating CC.

The OTO test accurately indicates the presence of chlorine in the water. This is roughly the extent of it. It's inclusion is primarily because the k-1000 was the easiest way to put a good pH test in the kit.

 

[iadams]

The OTO test is virtually worthless for any precision. The color change is extremely gradual past a couple PPM so any sort of good reading is impossible, and it also reads Total Chlorine which can hide a brewing problem that may be generating CC.

The OTO test accurately indicates the presence of chlorine in the water. This is roughly the extent of it. It's inclusion is primarily because the k-1000 was the easiest way to put a good pH test in the kit.

But....I'd be OK with that. I've actually compared my drop test results against it and it was close enough for what I would ever do day-today (pre SWCG times). And yes, while the color change of that particular setup may be problematic past a couple ppm......that can be OK. From a lot of experience, I feel like I can almost judge within a few ppm the chlorine level on the drop test just from watching how the color changes (speed and behavior) and the final color when adding the powder before I even start dropping R-0871 (maybe we should have TFP Olympics and have contests like this!). Anyway, I get the limitations but there are times in-between a full test that 'close enough is good enough'

And yes, TC can hide a brewing problem and we should test CC but thats my whole point here......we aren't testing CC all of the time anyway even with the drop test....at least most people aren't - and my wife/daughter/neighbor/friend pool test substitute definitely aren't going to.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You use the K-1001 or the K-1004 with the high range comparator block. It uses the pink DPD reagents (R-0001/R-0002) and it gives good results all the way up to 10ppm. If you know what you’re doing, you can even titrate the resulting sample with R-0871 and get a fairly good match to the standard DPD-FAS test.

OTO is worthless. I stopped using it when I determined that OTO couldn’t tell the difference between 2ppm and 5ppm in my pool.

 

[iadams]

You use the K-1001 or the K-1004 with the high range comparator block. It uses the pink DPD reagents (R-0001/R-0002) and it gives good results all the way up to 10ppm. If you know what you’re doing, you can even titrate the resulting sample with R-0871 and get a fairly good match to the standard DPD-FAS test.

OTO is worthless. I stopped using it when I determined that OTO couldn’t tell the difference between 2ppm and 5ppm in my pool.

That's interesting - I did not have that experience with the OTO test. Sure, its not .5ppm accurate but I could definitely tell between 2ppm and 5ppm (and confirmed myself a number of times by doing the test both ways). As with anything, I guess, it's a matter of repeating it over and over enough that you kind of learn how to cut through the noise to 'see' the real result (if that makes any sense).

Thanks for explaining the K-1001 / K-1004 thing.....I saw comparitors for sale but didn't see instructions or explanations. It makes a lot of sense to me....as I mentioned....I can tell pretty close, from experience, what the ppm will be just with the pink DPD reagent without even adding the drops, do the 'depth' of that pink must mean something....apparently

 

[Newdude]

I stopped using it when I determined that OTO couldn’t tell the difference between 2ppm and 5ppm in my pool

Well, THERE'S your problem. Make it not be able to tell the difference between 8ppm and 11ppm and either way, you have 'enough FC today'.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

DPD is an indicator dye whose color intensity changes with changing concentration of FC. With a good optical comparator that is properly calibrated, DPD solutions can give reliable and precise results all the way up to 10ppm. The FAS titration is merely a visual way getting better results at high FC since the pink color tends to flatten out after a certain point.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Well, THERE'S your problem. Make it not be able to tell the difference between 8ppm and 11ppm and either way, you have 'enough FC today'.

View attachment 498740

Your employer probably should see the results of that urinalysis … you should stop eating poppyseed bagels, it’s going to get you in trouble.

Oh, and drink more water … your results indicate you’re a little dehydrated.

 

[taylortechnologies]

That's interesting - I did not have that experience with the OTO test. Sure, its not .5ppm accurate but I could definitely tell between 2ppm and 5ppm (and confirmed myself a number of times by doing the test both ways). As with anything, I guess, it's a matter of repeating it over and over enough that you kind of learn how to cut through the noise to 'see' the real result (if that makes any sense).

Thanks for explaining the K-1001 / K-1004 thing.....I saw comparitors for sale but didn't see instructions or explanations. It makes a lot of sense to me....as I mentioned....I can tell pretty close, from experience, what the ppm will be just with the pink DPD reagent without even adding the drops, do the 'depth' of that pink must mean something....apparently

You could always find the instructions for Taylor kits on the website, www.taylortechnologies.com. Search for your kit, then click on the word "Documents" to find instructions and the SDS.

 

[proavia]

Well, THERE'S your problem. Make it not be able to tell the difference between 8ppm and 11ppm and either way, you have 'enough FC today'.

View attachment 498740

But you have no way to determine if that orange color is above or below 10 ppm - therefore making your pH test invalid.

 

[Newdude]

But you have no way to determine if that orange color is above or below 10 ppm - therefore making your pH test invalid

*laughs in vinyl and user friendly northeast water*

I needed acid once last year. Haven't needed it yet this year.

But. THANKS for mentioning it for anyone with more concern for CSI, or harsh climates with unfriendly fill water.

 

[duraleigh]

(Here we go, again). I think the OTO chlorine test is quite valuable.

1. Cheapest of all tests
2. Fastest of all tests
3. Completely dependable
4. Completely repeatable
5. Gives the color blind something to complain about

The OTO 's purpose is to indicate the presence of chlorine.......not really much more than that. That's why there is another way to measure chlorine included in the kits for when you need precision.

I think this discussion come up at least quarterly with each side trying to convince the other to no avail. We need a life!