Just got home from 7 day vacation. Pool tested fine. Hottub drop test turns red as soon as I put yellow drops in. Invert it and then becomes yellow with red chunks in it. Anyone with any clue what this is? I've never seen it before. I put an entire jug of bleach in it before I left which is a lot but I've never left it for 7 days before.
Taylor Chlorine test showing red bits
- Thread starter jeharley
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,467
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
OTO Chlorine test turning red after yellow indicates a VERY high chlorine level.
How may gallons is your hot tub? What % bleach did you put in?
How may gallons is your hot tub? What % bleach did you put in?
300 gallon hottub. The standard large Great Value jug from walmart.
I just did the full on tf100 test with the powder and drops and it never even turned pink when I put in the powder which it states indicates zero chlorine lol. I have had slight issues with the accuracy of the tf100 chlorine test lately though which I think is due to my powder being old and hard. Not sure what to think. I just added a measuring cup of bleach and will re test in morning I guess.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,467
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
1gallon of 6% chlorine in 300 gallons will raise CL by 206 ppm.
The high chlorine is bleaching out the indicator in the FAS DPD test.
I suggest you drain that water and go easier on the chlorine.
The high chlorine is bleaching out the indicator in the FAS DPD test.
I suggest you drain that water and go easier on the chlorine.
You can't dump an entire gallon of bleach in a 300 gallon tub. That will put the fc over 200 ppm. You need to drain and refill. You have probably damaged the tub.
I usually have to add 3/4 to 1 cup of 6% bleach/day in order to keep my tub over 3 ppm FC.
Yea I added a lot, but my tub usually eats up a good bit. IDK why. I keep everything in check for the most part and test daily.
What do you think I damaged specifically? It seems to be functioning normally.
That much chlorine will begin oxidizing everything. It might not be obvious right away but I suspect you will see some effects eventually.
It's not as bad as if the pH was also super low, but it's still bad.
Not much you can do about it now but drain, refill and hope for the best.
It's not as bad as if the pH was also super low, but it's still bad.
Not much you can do about it now but drain, refill and hope for the best.
Why not just leave it open some tomorrow so the sun can break down the FC? Or also add some more water to dilute? It seems to me like it could get back to normal levels in a week or so
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,467
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That’s a week or more of the highly chlorinated water eating away at the insides of the hot tub.
If you think the sun will breakdown 25-30 ppm a day. It’s your science experiment.
If you think the sun will breakdown 25-30 ppm a day. It’s your science experiment.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,206
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If it was my tub I'd dump and refill. Seals, heater tubes and other parts aren't worth the risk.
Ok, I shouldn't have replied like I did. I took your post the wrong way. Sorry.
There's no way to tell what something will cost. Usually hundreds, but it depends on the exact situation.
Hopefully, no serious damage was done.
There's no way to tell what something will cost. Usually hundreds, but it depends on the exact situation.
Hopefully, no serious damage was done.