Taking the Plunge - Need Plumbing Help

[mjbarr99]

Looking at converting from a Stenner pump to a SWG. I'm leaning towards the CircuPool RJ-30 (with $1 upgrade to RJ-45) but I'm not sure how to reroute my plumbing to accommodate the cell and the flow sensor. I noticed that CircuPool also sells a vertical install kit but I don't know if I have any room for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

See page 17 in https://www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-RJ-Manual.pdf

You don't need the check valve with the SWG. You have about 24" run from the elbow on the heater output to the return elbow. You need about 15" for the flow switch followed by the cell. The manual says you need 6" to12" of straight pipe running into the flow switch and if needed you can cheat and make it an inch or two short.

So I think it will all fit in the 24" run you have.

 

[DeanP66]

Why doesn't he need the check valve with the SWG? Won't the chlorine backtrack into the heat exchanger and shorten the life of his heater by rusting it out prematurely without one?

 

[waterl0gged]

Perhaps a Circupool Core 55 would be better suited for your installation ? It has the flow sensor built in , and it only requires 11" of straight pipe length . The Circupool Core 35 also has the $1. upgrade to the Core 55 through Discount Salt Pool .
Something to consider possibly ?

 

[setsailsoon]

M,

I agree with Allen's comment. Our experts have often made the distinction because the swg cell only makes chlorine while running. When flow stops chlorine production stops. This is not the case for an inline chlorinator and a chlorine pump can have a failure or a leak that causes chlorine addition when pump is not working can that will in-turn cause high chlorine levels in the heat exchanger tubes.

If you're not comfortable with this approach you can make a loop perpendicular and horizontal. I went this route for my RJ 30+ just to avoid purchase of the vertical fittings. See photo below. If you use this option be sure to provide pipe supports so you don't have too much vibration. I have a temporary stack of wood and will fabricate a PVC saddle support as a permanent fix

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[ajw22]

Why doesn't he need the check valve with the SWG? Won't the chlorine backtrack into the heat exchanger and shorten the life of his heater by rusting it out prematurely without one?

Tablet chlorinators require a check valve for a few reasons:

- the tablets contain acid as well as chlorine and the water becomes highly acidic and corrosive
- tablets continue to dissolve and create an acidic environment around the feeder when the pump is off

A SWG only creates chlorine in a small amount and it immediately stops generating when the flow stops. There is nothing corrosive around an idle SWG.

 

[mjbarr99]

Chris,

Thanks for posting the picture. Due to the space constraints, I'm going to mount the flow switch and cell vertically. Does it matter if the flow switch is upstream or downstream from the cell?

 

[Brett S]

Thanks for posting the picture. Due to the space constraints, I'm going to mount the flow switch and cell vertically. Does it matter if the flow switch is upstream or downstream from the cell?

According to the manual it doesn’t matter if the flow switch is upstream or downstream. However, they do want at least 6 to 12” of straight pipe before the flow switch, so you can’t put it right after a corner. The cell itself can count as the 6-12” of straight pipe, so you can mount them with the flow switch immediately after the cell, which is what I did.

 

[mknauss]

You want the flow switch on the side the flow is up. That way, if the flow switch fails, gravity can not close it.

 

[setsailsoon]

99,

The manual stipulates min 6-12" of straight pipe before the switch and that makes sense as turbulence could cause problems. Manual is silent on the issue Marty mentioned but I think hes absolutely right. Last thing you'd want is the flow switch spring to fail then gravity causes the cell to remain powered with no flow. Good catch Marty! For this reason in a vertical installation I would want it upstream of the cell with the arrow on the switch pointing toward the cell and flow in the same direction.

You're gonna love your salt pool!

Chris

 

[mjbarr99]

Thanks for all the help. I ordered my RJ45+ and the vertical install kit yesterday from Discount Salt Pool. I could have bought the fittings at Home Depot but following our stay at home recommendations. Now I need to get more CYA in the pool, buy a K-1766 test kit and add about 300lbs of salt.

 

[Brett S]

Thanks for all the help. I ordered my RJ45+ and the vertical install kit yesterday from Discount Salt Pool. I could have bought the fittings at Home Depot but following our stay at home recommendations. Now I need to get more CYA in the pool, buy a K-1766 test kit and add about 300lbs of salt.

Just a quick note that before you buy and add the salt you should test your current salt level. Chlorine and some of the other chemicals we routinely add to our pools will also add salt. Depending on how old your water is it could already contain a significant amount of salt and you might overshoot if you add before testing.

 

[waterl0gged]

Just a tip about the salt ...........
With the way things are going in the country right now , I found out yesterday that the salt was a little tricky to get !
The Walmarts near me are slowly closing some of the "non-essential" departments in the stores . My son and I made a trip to Walmart for the pool salt, and he also needed some pellets for his BBQ (we use 60lb bags) . We found out that the outside areas and garden center (where they keep the pellets and pool salt ) was closed , blocked off , with no entry allowed into the area at all . We could see the salt and pellets right through the glass doors , but could not purchase any . Talked to the manager , and it was a no go .
Thought about what we could do and came up with a "plan B " . Went to the website .......
I ordered 18 40lb bags of Morton pool salt, and a few bags of BBQ pellets , and did the pick up at store option . Fearing it would be cancelled but we tried it anyway . Paid for it with a CC , and waited for a cancelation or .......
We got the text it was ready for pick-up in about 2 hours. Drove to Walmart with the truck , and checked in . The Walmart associate , wheeled the whole cart full ( prob about 850 lbs !) outside and helped us load it up . Tried to tip him , but he couldn't take it .

Anyway ........ if you are looking for pool salt at Walmart , you may have to think outside the box , and order it online for store pick-up .
I ordered enough for all I may need incase it becomes hard to get soon . Figure I will always need more salt for topping off once in a while or the next pool opening (since I drain off some water for winterizing) .

Get the salt while you can , just in case, is what I would say .

 

[mjbarr99]

Just a quick note that before you buy and add the salt you should test your current salt level. Chlorine and some of the other chemicals we routinely add to our pools will also add salt. Depending on how old your water is it could already contain a significant amount of salt and you might overshoot if you add before testing.

I had about 1180 ppm of salt when I closed the pool last year using AquaChek strips.

 

[mjbarr99]

Waterl0gged, I was going to check Wal-Mart and Home Depot for salt and CYA but was going to wait until next week. Definitely don't want to attempt going this weekend.