Newbie pool owner here.. question if my TA is at 50 and my PH is 7.4 should I be raising the TA ? I think the recommended level is 70-90 but I've read where people are staying around 50? . I've been working on Ph now for awhile with a new pool and it's finally staying consistant in range...
TA
- Thread starter Jimmyj5800
- Start date
If your pH is stable then TA at 50 is fine. If your oh starts jumping arounf0d then raise TA to 60. My pool is good with TA at 50.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,392
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here 
Post all your results when you get a chance:
FC
CC
pH 7.4
TA 50
CH
CYA
Post all your results when you get a chance:
FC
CC
pH 7.4
TA 50
CH
CYA
- May 23, 2015
- 25,728
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't know your water temp but if you use 77F, then that water is way too aggressive for plaster with a CSI at -0.58. You should let your pH rise to 7.6-7.8 range and only bring your pH down when it goes above 7.8. That will keep your CSI between 0 and -0.3 which is fine.
Alternatively you could raise your TA up to 60ppm but only if it has minimal impact on pH drift.
Alternatively you could raise your TA up to 60ppm but only if it has minimal impact on pH drift.
Pool temp is 76 I have no clue what csi is. Something els to read up on. Since finishing the pool in september I have been having to lower PH every week. From above 8 .last 2 weeks it has been staying right at 7.2-7.4 and TA has been droping this whole time as well down from starting around 100 I Believe . So I really don't know what raising it will do... have never had the chance to raise TA for the first two months. What do u think.
I also added borate supreme plus 2 weeks after the pool was finished 45 lbs was the recommended amount for my pool...... but I don't know how to test for that . Or if I even need to test for it. Just wanted to give you all the info on what I have in there.
Adding acid to lower PH will also lower your TA. Raise your TA to 60 and let your pH stay at 7.8.
CSI is calcium saturation index. PoolMath will give you the number after you enter all your test results. Keep it between -0.3 and 0 to prevent scale and etchjng. More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
CSI is calcium saturation index. PoolMath will give you the number after you enter all your test results. Keep it between -0.3 and 0 to prevent scale and etchjng. More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
Ok thanks I'll do it in the AM. So should I worry about borate testing or just leave it at zero in pool math. And will raising my CH help with this as well? It is one the lower side I think.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,728
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Having added 45lbs of the Proteam supreme plus to 15,000 gallons gives you about 40ppm borates based on their dosing chart. You should set the borate column to 40ppm as that will definitely make a big difference in your pH adjustments. Borates act mainly as a pH buffer so it will take more acid to move the pH lower.
Raising CH to 250 wouldn't hurt anything, but you can raise TA and/or pH a bit higher to offset. CH will likely rise some over time. Mine is about 400 these days after 5 years of no water changes ever. It looks like the borate supreme would have added about 40 ppm. Enter that, it will change the CSI a bit. You can order some borate test strips from TFTestkits.net.
Ok after adding 2.5 lbs of baking soda I am at
TA 70
Ph between 7.6- 7.8
So I think that puts me in range and I will monitor to see if I have any drifting or jumping around like this.
Thanks
TA 70
Ph between 7.6- 7.8
So I think that puts me in range and I will monitor to see if I have any drifting or jumping around like this.
Thanks