TA pH issues

[quincy915]

I have accepted my pool likes to stay at a higher pH. I use liquid chlorine. So, when I get test results I make sure the CSI is balanced. Because the TA will be 50-60 while pH is 7.8 to 8.0. I test the basics myself often: FC, pH, TA. I'll use Leslie's to keep eye on CYA, metals, PHO. I guess my confidence is not that great. Yesterday, Leslie's results were: FC 2, pH 7.8, TA 43, CH 264, CYA 64, PHO 346, TDS 2000, Iron .1, Cu .2. Is it even possible my TA can be that low with a high pH of 7.8?? And, previous CYA on 10/8/20 was 55 with no use of pucks since September.
I don't know the source of the metals. The results seesaw but never have been above .1 My 5 y/o heater has been out of commission/gas turned off because I have to pay for either the mother board or pad to be replaced. The heater kept firing on. They told me turning the gas off until I get fixed would not hurt the equipment. Is this true anyone?
I am looking for metal removal education, as well as, confidence that as long as the CSI is balanced, I can let the TA be 50-60 while pH is 7.8 to 8.0.
Would appreciate any help.
Paula

 

[Texas Splash]

Sounds like there are a few things to discuss:
1. You must test your own water with either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. While you may not feel confident right now, the only way to gain that confidence is by doing it and asking us if you have questions about either test. But each time you rely on free store testing, you set yourself up for disaster. Their numbers will change daily which leads to confusion and wasted products.
2. Iron/copper are not natural to our water unless you are on a well (iron). Copper is introduced either by copper-based algaecides or other pool store podcast, or a bad heater element. In either case, the only way to remove metals is by water exchange. You can try to control the metals with a good sequestrant, but that's a band-aid fix as the metal is still in the water.

Water temps should be cooler right now, so a pH of 7.8-8.0 should be fine as long as the TA and CH are not high. The link below is a perfect source for all of your pool care needs. Hope that helps.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Jimrahbe]

Paula,

I believe that pool stores use an "adjusted" TA.. Not the TA that one of our recommended kits measures.. They subtract about .35 x CYA from the measured TA to get your adjusted TA. This would make your actual TA about 65...

A pH of 7.8 or even 8.0 is not really that bad as long as you keep an eye on your CSI.

I would do absolute nothing based on pool store testing..

If you are worried about metals, get your own metals test kit and test it yourself.

Going to the pool store will just drive you crazy...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[quincy915]

Paula,

I believe that pool stores use an "adjusted" TA.. Not the TA that one of our recommended kits measures.. They subtract about .35 x CYA from the measured TA to get your adjusted TA. This would make your actual TA about 65...

A pH of 7.8 or even 8.0 is not really that bad as long as you keep an eye on your CSI.

I would do absolute nothing based on pool store testing..

If you are worried about metals, get your own metals test kit and test it yourself.

Going to the pool store will just drive you crazy...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Adjusted TA?! They always get lower TAs than I do. Thank you for your response and explanation.
Paula

 

[Dirk]

You absolutely cannot rely on pool store testing. You're post is the explanation why. They will contradict their own test results. You will gain the confidence you need. You're probably already better at testing than they are!! Don't sell yourself short. They're notoriously bad at testing CYA, and that level is an important one. So the more you do it yourself, the sooner you'll get better at it. BTW, it's not just you, we all hate the CYA test!!

Stick with it, you're doing great. Pat and Jim gave you great advice. Much better than you'll get from a pool store, that's for sure. Just stay out of there altogether, and you'll do fine.

And no, turning off the gas while waiting for the heater fix won't hurt a thing.

 

[quincy915]

You absolutely cannot rely on pool store testing. You're post is the explanation why. They will contradict their own test results. You will gain the confidence you need. You're probably already better at testing than they are!! Don't sell yourself short. They're notoriously bad at testing CYA, and that level is an important one. So the more you do it yourself, the sooner you'll get better at it. BTW, it's not just you, we all hate the CYA test!!

Stick with it, you're doing great. Pat and Jim gave you great advice. Much better than you'll get from a pool store, that's for sure. Just stay out of there altogether, and you'll do fine.

And no, turning off the gas while waiting for the heater fix won't hurt a thing.

Thanks for your encouragement. My intent was to use those tests at THEIR expense instead of mine. But if I can't trust them, I'll just have to do all my own testing. So, what's the most economic way to do ALL the testing. What and who do you order from?
Thanks
Paula

 

[Texas Splash]

Paula, both the TF-100 and Taylor K-2006C are outstanding products. But IMO, the TF-100 is the better value (packed w/ Taylor reagents). If you can swing the magnetic speedstir, I highly encourage that as well.

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Dirk]

Of all the things you can, and will, spend money on when you have a pool, testing is by far the most important. Don't skimp on that. Budget for it. You really only have the two test kits we recommend as options, so don't go looking for a cheaper kit. Don't rely on the pool store. Don't use test strips. Stick with either of those two recommended kits. Either will pay for itself in terms of the pool trouble they'll keep at bay.

Pat's advising that the TF-100 is the better value. I think that's true. But I went another way, though I can't prove one way or another it's better economically. I originally purchased a Taylor K-2006 (not the K-2006C). The 2006 is the smaller, cheaper version, with 3/4oz reagents. The 2006C, and I think the TF-100, utilized the 2oz reagents. The larger the reagents, the better the value. But I like the smaller kit, which fits in my cupboard nice and neat. When a 3/4oz reagent gets empty, I refill it with a 2oz reagent I buy on Amazon. I only buy the reagents as needed, or as they expire, instead of buying a full-on new kit, or the TF-100 refill kit, once a year. So I save money that way. But I don't fool around with expiration dates, not worth it. So all my reagents are within expiration dates, and I only buy what I need. I have Amazon Prime, so shipping isn't an issue. I can buy one reagent or five... no difference in shipping costs (which are zero). Anywho, that's what works for me... The best testing method, the smallest footprint in my cupboard, fresh reagents, and no reagents wasted.

 

[tim5055]

Paula, I can only give you my experience as an example.

I purchased a house with a pool. I never owned one and had no idea what to do. I was lucky that it was in the winter and I had "time" before bad stuff started happening.

I went to a few pool stores to see what they did and if I "liked" them. To a store their CYA testing came back in the 80 - 120 range.

Before spring came and the water warmed up (my pool stayed open 12 months of the year) I happened across TFP. I read and I learned. The biggest thing I learned was that pool store testing was bad, and the worst test the did was the CYA test. So, I purchased a test kit. I tested my CYA. It didn't seem right. I posted here an was helped.

When it was done, it turns out my CYA was somewhere between 250 and 300. I had to keep my FC in the 19 - 25 range for close to 18 months while I worded my CYA down thru water exchanges.

Please get a test kit and trust yourself.

 

[quincy915]

Of all the things you can, and will, spend money on when you have a pool, testing is by far the most important. Don't skimp on that. Budget for it. You really only have the two test kits we recommend as options, so don't go looking for a cheaper kit. Don't rely on the pool store. Don't use test strips. Stick with either of those two recommended kits. Either will pay for itself in terms of the pool trouble they'll keep at bay.

Pat's advising that the TF-100 is the better value. I think that's true. But I went another way, though I can't prove one way or another it's better economically. I originally purchased a Taylor K-2006 (not the K-2006C). The 2006 is the smaller, cheaper version, with 3/4oz reagents. The 2006C, and I think the TF-100, utilized the 2oz reagents. The larger the reagents, the better the value. But I like the smaller kit, which fits in my cupboard nice and neat. When a 3/4oz reagent gets empty, I refill it with a 2oz reagent I buy on Amazon. I only buy the reagents as needed, or as they expire, instead of buying a full-on new kit, or the TF-100 refill kit, once a year. So I save money that way. But I don't fool around with expiration dates, not worth it. So all my reagents are within expiration dates, and I only buy what I need. I have Amazon Prime, so shipping isn't an issue. I can buy one reagent or five... no difference in shipping costs (which are zero). Anywho, that's what works for me... The best testing method, the smallest footprint in my cupboard, fresh reagents, and no reagents wasted.

Good info. Thank you!

 

[quincy915]

Paula, I can only give you my experience as an example.

I purchased a house with a pool. I never owned one and had no idea what to do. I was lucky that it was in the winter and I had "time" before bad stuff started happening.

I went to a few pool stores to see what they did and if I "liked" them. To a store their CYA testing came back in the 8 - 120 range.

Before spring came and the water warmed up (my poo stayed open 12 months of the year) I happened across TFP. I read and I learned. The biggest thing I learned was that pool store testing was bad, and the worst test the did was the CYA test. So, I purchased a test kit. I tested my CYA. It didn't seem right. I posted here an was helped.

When it was done, it turns out my CYA was somewhere between 250 and 300. I had ot keep my FC in the 19 - 25 range for close to 18 months while I worded my CYA down thru water exchanges.

Please get a test kit and trust yourself.

Yes, I know that CYA issue well. That's what turned me on to TFP years ago. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[gregsfc]

When I used pool store testing years ago, their reports always showed that I had iron and also always had cc's in my pool; but they never recommended that those results were a problem or products to fix them. Looking back, after years of testing myself with a TF-100 kit with not one test ever over .5 cc's and no staining from iron, I bet their test results always show that everyone has iron and that everyone has cc's. That why they don't recommend a fix. It's their testing that needs fixing. Just like most pool stores testing. Even if they are well intended, which that pool store is, the kits recommended here are much more accurate.

 

[DanF]

And you'll likely pay for your test kit by avoiding one trip to the pool store and purchasing erroneous chemicals based on an erroneous test.
There's a reason they test for free!