well I used your numbers at 29000 gallons, even if I drop a couple thousand gallons you dont get much difference with that dosage. There is no way my pool is much smaller then ur estimates ?jblizzle said:
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- Thread starter Rafalski
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so after another 2 hours the FC dropped to 25, shocked it back up to 26 plus couple extra oz just to be safe
If your depth is 6 inches less than the depths you gave, then subtract off ~2500 gallons.
No, I actually gave depth of the water in the pool. Couple questions, I just tested the water and FC is 28 after two and a half hours since shocking so looks like I will not shock again today. However, the sun was already completely down but it was still fairly light outside, should I retest again when it is completely dark before going to bed or can I safely use the 28 as my mark for tomorrow morning's test? Secondly if the water passes the test, should I not turn on the SWG untill the FC drops to recommended levels or turn it on? with it on I imagine it will take days or weeks before it drops back down.linen said:
Best to test after full dark.
You can save some SWG cell lifetime by turning it off a few days until FC comes down.
You can save some SWG cell lifetime by turning it off a few days until FC comes down.
Ok so I tested again just after 10PM and the FC is still 28, I will try to test again before 7AM. Since you mention its best to test after dark, is it also advised to test in the morning while it is still completely dark? that might be difficult for me.
On another note, should I be running the filter through this whole time? It has been running ever since we opened the pool on monday, I guess if I am still trying to clean up stuff (not knowing if it cleared up completely untill I pass OCLT) then it should continue to run correct?
On another note, should I be running the filter through this whole time? It has been running ever since we opened the pool on monday, I guess if I am still trying to clean up stuff (not knowing if it cleared up completely untill I pass OCLT) then it should continue to run correct?
Yes, you need to test it before the sun comes up to do the OCLT correctly.
KEep the pump running.
KEep the pump running.
geez thats exactly the answer I was trying to avoid as I still dont know when to test it 
at 6:30 the sun is still down but it is fairly light oustide, meaning not pitch dark like in middle of the night. In OCLT it says before sun hits the pool so I thought it would be ok, now u r saying I need to get up when its still pitch dark?
at 6:30 the sun is still down but it is fairly light oustide, meaning not pitch dark like in middle of the night. In OCLT it says before sun hits the pool so I thought it would be ok, now u r saying I need to get up when its still pitch dark?
Well I was already asleep after sending that last message so I did get up a bit early just to be safe, just after 5AM, it was already getting light but still way out of sun range. The FC came out at 27, CC below 0.5 and water crystal clear, does that mean I can now stop shocking and add calcium when I get home tonight? should I adjust anything else first?
Yes you can stop shocking it 
Here are the recommended levels for swg: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator. I would shoot for the lower end of the Calcium range (250) for now since you pool volume is still a little suspect.
Here are the recommended levels for swg: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator. I would shoot for the lower end of the Calcium range (250) for now since you pool volume is still a little suspect.
Thanks Linen, once I get all the levels and water level straightened out should I bring CH up to 350 which is at top range or just keep it in the middle at 300?
It depends on a number of things but again, I would shoot for 250 to start...then post your full test results and we can recommend from there.
Great, Can I dump all of calcium in at once? the directions state to split into 12lb portions ever 6-8 hours. I am just tired of running the pump and filter non stop last few days and want to set it to normal schedule
Calcium can sometimes cloud up the water if you add too much at one time and the PH is fairly high. Because you are at shock level (last I heard) you can't measure the PH, so it might be prudent to add more slowly in this situation, though the 6-8 hour thing sounds excessive.
thanks for the advice, i just tested and got 140 for CH, 120 when I tested couple days ago, is it possible it went up with addition of stabilizer, baking soda or muriatic acid? Also how long does it take before I can actually test for CH again, does it dissolve right away?JasonLion said:
Have you added any water to your pool? What is your fill water CH level? Non of the chemicals you mentioned add CH....cal-hypo does.
no clue what fill water ch is, i might have run my hose into pool for 30 minutes at most, I cant believe it would add this much CH to pool (it is well water as we do not have city water or sewer here). I dont think it even added an eigth of an inch of water. I did use those 3lbs of shock one night, but can it add 20 to CH? or test results were offlinen said:
Well water often times has high calcium hardness (mine is in the 300s) so if you have added it to your pool off you may raise your CH level...but as you noted 1/8inch would not be much (but over a few weeks time it can add up). Did you fill the pool with the well originally?
The Cal-hypo added a little and the test accuracy is +/-10%.
The Cal-hypo added a little and the test accuracy is +/-10%.