TA and CSI

[Rosyvette]

Here are my results
FC 8.5 CC 0.0
TA 100 (already at 80 once I lowered my PH)
CYA 40
PH 8.2 (lowered to 7.2)
CH 250
Salt 3400
CSI -0.81
Temp 65

Ok, I have a couple of questions. I had to lower my ph 1- because it was high and 2- to lower my TA the was at 100 when normally is 70 for the last year but I have my csi on the negative side today and I read that csi decreases as water temperatures gets colder and that I need to raise the ph to keep csi above -0.6 but I need to keep my ph somewhat low to keep my TA in range. Please advise.

I have 8.5 FC should I leave the cya alone, leave it at 40?

Also my floating water temperature reader had something black all around (waterline). Does it has to do with the TA being high? I forgot to take a pic. Thanks in advance.

 

[mknauss]

Your pH will rise pretty quickly. No issue on the low CSI for a short period of time.

In the future, never adjust your pH by more than 0.4 points in your situation. Poolmath is not all that accurate when you get outside of those bounds. You never really need to lower the pH below 7.6.

 

[Rosyvette]

Your pH will rise pretty quickly. No issue on the low CSI for a short period of time.

In the future, never adjust your pH by more than 0.4 points in your situation. Poolmath is not all that accurate when you get outside of those bounds. You never really need to lower the pH below 7.6.

I'm constantly( weekly average) lowering my ph for the past year that around this time the pool was done. I thought that with time the ph would normalize.

 

[Rosyvette]

(never adjust your pH by more than 0.4 points) Why?

 

[PoolStored]

I'm constantly( weekly average) lowering my ph for the past year that around this time the pool was done. I thought that with time the ph would normalize.

It can take up to 18-24 months. What is the TA of your fill water?

(never adjust your pH by more than 0.4 points) Why?

See the note below from Pool Math:

“ Note: pH calculations are not exact. These numbers are only suggestive of the relative magnitude of the pH change you can expect. Small changes, +-0.4, with pH between 7.2-7.8, TA around 80-120, and Borate near zero will be approximately correct. The further you go from those ranges the less these pH changes will correspond to reality.”

 

[Rosyvette]

It can take up to 18-24 months. What is the TA of your fill water?


See the note below from Pool Math:

“ Note: pH calculations are not exact. These numbers are only suggestive of the relative magnitude of the pH change you can expect. Small changes, +-0.4, with pH between 7.2-7.8, TA around 80-120, and Borate near zero will be approximately correct. The further you go from those ranges the less these pH changes will correspond to reality.”

Thanks

 

[AlexPowell]

(never adjust your pH by more than 0.4 points) Why?

It's not accurate to do so

 

[Mdragger88]

Also my floating water temperature reader had something black all around (waterline). Does it has to do with the TA being high? I forgot to take a pic. Thanks in advance.

Sounds like mold/mildew/algae - ta has nothing to do with that.

 

[PoolStored]

Sounds like mold/mildew/algae

or body oils, sunscreen etc.

 

[Rosyvette]

It can take up to 18-24 months. What is the TA of your fill water?


See the note below from Pool Math:

“ Note: pH calculations are not exact. These numbers are only suggestive of the relative magnitude of the pH change you can expect. Small changes, +-0.4, with pH between 7.2-7.8, TA around 80-120, and Borate near zero will be approximately correct. The further you go from those ranges the less these pH changes will correspond to reality.”

Sorry I just realized I didn't answer your question. I've never tested my tap water, is that what you are referring to?

 

[Rosyvette]

or body oils, sunscreen etc.

No one using the pool at this time of the year. For it to be mold, mildew or algae would it show on the numbers in the test? For example on the FC and CC. I always thought that if something was happening I would notice it there on the cc?

 

[PoolStored]

No one using the pool at this time of the year. For it to be mold, mildew or algae would it show on the numbers in the test? For example on the FC and CC. I always thought that if something was happening I would notice it there on the cc?

This is your test Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[Mdragger88]

Elevated Cc’s generally are an indicator of a problem but their absence doesn’t automatically mean you’re in the clear.
If you ever have concerns something is brewing you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to make a diagnosis.

That said,
If the gunk is in the part that isn’t really submerged/flushed with chlorinated water often I wouldn’t worry about it too much.
Mine does this on the top part when it hasn’t been dunked in a while because of inactivity in the pool. In the summer with normal splashing/movement & me checking it it’s not an issue.
Mine has holes on top so when I check the temp I always submerge it to force the air out & rinse it well to prevent it getting funky there.
In fact, my trichlor floater has the same problem with the top of it’s lid & it literally has pucks in it.
I usually only use for vacation so the water that collects on the top can get stagnant because there’s no one home splashing about.

 

[PoolStored]

I've never tested my tap water, is that what you are referring to?

Test your fill water for TA. You may have high TA, which will drive your TA up also. That will give an indication if the pH rise is from high TA fill water, or from the plaster.

 

[Rosyvette]

Test your fill water for TA. You may have high TA, which will drive your TA up also. That will give an indication if the pH rise is from high TA fill water, or from the plaster.

That could be what is raising my TA. I have filled my pool like 3 times in the last 2 months but the ph has been always high and the TA never was an issue. I will test my fill water, thank you.

 

[Rosyvette]

Elevated Cc’s generally are an indicator of a problem but their absence doesn’t automatically mean you’re in the clear.
If you ever have concerns something is brewing you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to make a diagnosis.

That said,
If the gunk is in the part that isn’t really submerged/flushed with chlorinated water often I wouldn’t worry about it too much.
Mine does this on the top part when it hasn’t been dunked in a while because of inactivity in the pool. In the summer with normal splashing/movement & me checking it it’s not an issue.
Mine has holes on top so when I check the temp I always submerge it to force the air out & rinse it well to prevent it getting funky there.
In fact, my trichlor floater has the same problem with the top of it’s lid & it literally has pucks in it.
I usually only use for vacation so the water that collects on the top can get stagnant because there’s no one home splashing about.

My FC and Cc has been constant, no loss of FC. The gunk part was right at the waterline and some on top too where the water doesn't touch. Thank you for your input.